In the watch collectors' community, there are various categories of watches not tied to their internal functions.
Some are iconic, some inaccessible, and others are great value options - when some of these aspects align, you usually get a truly excellent offer.
Today, we are reviewing one such watch, the Seagull 1963 mechanical chronograph with a 38mm case. These watches are deservedly popular among enthusiasts, having made a name for themselves with their rich heritage, high-quality mechanical movement, and incredible affordability.
A Brief History
The fame of the Seagull 1963 model is partly due to its unique authentic heritage in China. Initially, the Seagull 1963 was based on a watch called Project 304, which was developed for the Chinese Air Force in the 1960s. Since the watches were used for military purposes, they had to meet certain military quality standards. This led to the creation of military-style watches that were not only affordable but also appropriately styled.
The 1963 model became the first Chinese development in the watch industry and one of the first chronographs produced in China. Since its debut in 1963, these watches have remained an icon and a symbol of Chinese watchmaking art.
Appearance and Fit
The modern Seagull 1963 model we are reviewing today has beautifully retained its appearance since the release of the original. These are watches that have not undergone significant changes, if any, since their creation. Remember, this is not a Swiss watch company with a massive budget allowing for design changes year after year, but watches released for functional military purposes that do not require any changes to improve their functions or design.
The watch has a truly unique cream-colored dial, more resembling the color of golden wheat than white. It has a rather unusual shade and does not resemble any of the Swiss, German, or other watch brands I have seen firsthand. I would even say that this dial color is a signature feature of Seagull watches, aside from the obvious, which is, of course, their movement.
The indices are applied to the dial, which is very beautiful, and have a golden hue. The minute, hour, and subdial hands are blued. The dual subdials are quite small and spaced far apart, giving the dial an airy look. The dial as a whole is tastefully done, and I am very impressed with the overall layout and thoughtful design; it is simple and looks good.
Upon initial inspection from inside the tin box they arrived in, the watches appear true to their size - 38mm. As collectors, we all understand that a 38mm chronograph looks smaller than a watch with just a 38mm case, and so it is here. It's a small chronograph, and when worn on the wrist, it looks very fitting for the 1963 period. On the wrist, it looks very stylish, but due to its size, it is also quite comfortable, as one would expect from a stainless steel watch of this size.
One thing that stands out is the robustness of the case. These watches are certainly not razor-thin for a hand-wound chronograph. The official case thickness is about 14mm, which is quite substantial, especially considering the domed glass. Nevertheless, this is a minor point when considering the other advantages of these watches. The watches also feature a back glass with an acrylic display, allowing a cool view of the Seagull ST19 from the back.
It is also worth noting that these watches come with two khaki/army green NATO straps, one of which is already fitted on the watch, and the other is inside the packaging. The lug width of the watch is 18mm, which is relatively common and should provide easy compatibility with aftermarket straps if you wish to change the look.
ST19 Movement
I decided to leave the movement for a separate section at the end of the article, and it is indeed the main advantage of the Seagull 1963. The main aspect that impresses everyone about this mechanical movement, given the price of the watch, is the fact that it uses the so-called column wheel, which controls the start, stop, and reset of the chronograph. Most watches using a column wheel cost multiple times more: a Swiss counterpart with such a mechanism costs from $2000.
The column wheel is not only a traditional element of watchmaking history but also a mechanically captivating sight, adding to the overall beauty of the ST19 model, which we see through the back display glass.
Not many watches priced at $250 will make you look at the mechanical movement for more than 15 seconds, but the Seagull 1963 is one of them. Chronograph movements are generally more complex than regular automatic or hand-wound watch movements, so there's plenty to see here. The ST19 goes further, using blued screws and various forms of light decorative touches inside the movement, such as engraving and beveling.
Final Thoughts
These are watches that stand out in their segment, distinguished by exceptional value. The Seagull 1963 surpasses almost all categories, even without considering the price. The Seagull 1963 watches feature a fantastically comfortable and proportionate case size and are certainly on trend with their "pump" style chronograph pushers.
Besides the appearance and wearing comfort, the watches carry a great heritage: they use a historical movement that not only works well but is also interesting to observe. It's no surprise why these watches have become iconic, and it's not just because of their affordable price, as I believe they would be just as popular if the price were even higher.
For more information, visit the official Seagull website here.