My experience with the new Arken Alterum Sage Grey was interesting because I approached it with almost no prior preparation.
This isn't uncommon, but when two members of the WatchTested team already own the Arken Alterum, it becomes more noteworthy. Of course, I knew about the brand and model since my colleague owns one, and we discussed the watches. However, I never tried the Alterum on my wrist. With the new Sage Grey version, I had the opportunity to get closer to this popular travel GMT. Personally, I prefer the new model with the green dial over the first two with anthracite and black dials. As a fan of GMT watches, I was eagerly anticipating this experience.
Development History of Arken Alterum and Release Features
It might seem that after two releases in 2023, Arken has somewhat "calmed down." However, that's not quite the case. The first models were released in a limited edition of 200 pieces per color. After a quick sellout, there was a restock, followed by an open edition that concluded the availability of the first two Alterums last year. Additionally, Arken founder Kenneth Lam introduced the "Speakeasy" series - exclusive Alterum versions with Cerakote cases, available only at brand meetings during exhibitions and special events. These watches could only be purchased directly from Lam. Such a personal approach in the era of mass releases deserves respect and is a sensible strategy for maintaining interest in the brand.
History of the Arken Alterum Sage Grey Model
With the release of Alterum Sage Grey, Arken introduced the third publicly available model in the lineup. The story of the watch is simple - it's a new color variation of the dial. However, this is where some misunderstanding arose: Sage Grey actually features a green dial and a strap in a shade more accurately described as "pine green." The color is more green than grey, but it perfectly complements the watch design. The name doesn't hinder enjoyment of the watch if you like this shade, as I do.
Technical Specifications of Arken Alterum Sage Grey
Technically, there are no changes. The Alterum case is still made of titanium, with a diameter of 40mm, a thickness of 13mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 46mm, complemented by a scratch-resistant coating. The watch looks proportional and seems smaller than its 40mm size suggests. The 38mm slanted bezel and smooth lines of the case create a harmonious appearance. Overall, the case is well-designed and reminiscent of the legendary TAG Heuer Kirium from the 1990s.
New Green Dial of Arken Alterum Sage Grey
The new green dial retains the characteristic grainy texture of previous models, creating an attractive background for the complex design. The dial features three-dimensional hour markers made of solid blocks of Super-LumiNova BGW9, set on a white circle. A white minute scale is located on the periphery, and a date counter is at the "6 o'clock" position. Two small windows just below the "3" and "9 o'clock" markers serve as AM/PM indicators for local and home time.
Above the dial are two gunmetal hands with luminous coating - hour and minute. The set is completed by a white seconds hand and a luminous beige "lollipop" GMT hand. The contrast of the beige hand against the dark green dial looks elegant and expressive.
Movement and Functions of ARK-9015DT
The watch is equipped with an automatic movement ARK-9015DT - a modified version of the Miyota 9015 with a unique dual time zone module. The Miyota 9015 operates at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour, contains 24 jewels, and provides a power reserve of about 42 hours. This caliber is part of the premium 9xxx series by Miyota, which has proven to be a reliable solution for micro-brands.
Operation of the ARK-9015DT Movement
The Arken module provides a dual time function, which requires some operating instructions. On the right side of the case, there is a screw-down crown with an additional button for setting the date.
After unscrewing the crown at "3 o'clock," you can set the main time and the second time zone. Turning the crown clockwise changes the local time, with the beige 12-hour GMT home time indicator synchronizing. When setting local time past midnight, the date automatically changes.
Turning the crown counterclockwise moves only the local time hand, while the home time hand remains stationary. For example, if you are traveling to New York from Amsterdam (a 6-hour difference back), you only need to adjust the local time without touching the home time. The AM/PM indicators change from white (AM) to black (PM): the left is linked to local time, the right - to home time.
Wearing the Arken Alterum Sage Grey
The watch comes with a tapering quick-release nylon strap in dark green, which matches the dial and gives the model a stylish look. The strap is flexible and sits comfortably on the wrist, perfectly balancing the case. Despite the 40×13mm dimensions, the watch feels more compact thanks to the slanted bezel and side lines of the case, giving it a distinct 90s style. The model weighs only 72 grams with the strap, ensuring comfort during prolonged wear.
Note the neatly recessed crown and button - small details that demonstrate Kenneth Lam's attention to design. This makes the Alterum not only comfortable but also a standout in any collection. Today, there are few watches on the market with such a unique look.
The dual time function adds practicality and originality to the model. Combined with the founder's personal approach, it's no surprise that the Arken Alterum has become a successful model priced at £630 / €730 / US$850.
Final Thoughts on the New Arken Alterum Sage Grey
Considering the popularity of the Miyota 9075 caliber with GMT function, the question arises - wouldn't its use have been more practical for affordable GMT models like the Alterum. Kenneth Lam confirms that it would have been a more convenient choice. However, at the time of development, the Miyota 9075 was not yet available, and Lam had to seek a creative solution, which led to the creation of the Alterum. The model's success confirms the correctness of this path.
The first limited edition of Sage Grey, available for immediate shipping, went on sale on May 23 and sold out instantly. Last Saturday, unlimited pre-orders began, with delivery scheduled from the fourth quarter of 2026 to the second quarter of 2027.
After a week of wearing, I understood why the Arken Alterum is so popular. It's a travel watch that stands out in any collection. The unusual GMT mechanism requires some getting used to but possesses a unique charm appreciated by many.
Combined with an affordable price, lightweight titanium case, and Kenneth Lam's personal approach, it's clear why Arken has so many fans. The new Sage Grey version also piqued my interest, and I will be closely watching the brand's future releases.