Audemars Piguet released its first (Re)Master model, recreating an exquisite 1940s chronograph.
For the second chapter of this historic collection, the brand reinterprets one of its most expressive designs from the 1960s. The reference model 5159BA, inspired by brutalism, stands out with an asymmetrical yellow gold case and eccentric form. As with the first (Re)Master, the idea is not to present a simple copy of a past model, but to reimagine it with a modern perspective... similar to remastering musical recordings. Meet the Audemars Piguet (Re)master02 Selfwinding reference 15240SG.
Beyond the design conventions dictated by round wristwatches, Audemars Piguet has a rich heritage in creating shaped watches. The brand has always distinguished itself with its unique ability to break norms and defy rules. In its creations, the manufacture embraces a wide variety of forms, starting with the Royal Oak - a transgressive watch that became a cultural icon.
Bold Design (Re)Master02
Wristwatches are traditionally symmetrical for obvious rational and functional reasons. Hands rotate in a circle, and the standard representation of what a watch should look like is round. The circle is a direct consequence of the mechanics used to display time, and it is the most universal shape in many respects. The first wristwatches were mostly modified pocket watches worn on the wrist. However, creating uniquely shaped watches allowed watchmakers to express their creativity and technical skill. Moving away from the universally round case led to the emergence of more expressive models. And after experimenting with all sorts of shapes, what remains? Asymmetry.
The post-World War II period was marked by unfettered creativity in producing shaped watches. It was the golden age of asymmetrical Audemars Piguet watches: from 1959 to 1963, more than 30 asymmetrical models were created, most of which were produced in less than ten copies. Among them is the 1961 Reference 5159BA model in brutalist yellow gold, released in only seven copies.
The most noticeable change in the (Re)Master02 compared to the 1960s model is the adaptation of the design and case size. While the overall look of the watch is immediately recognizable, it has been reimagined with a modern perspective using contemporary technologies. First and foremost, the proportions have been increased from 27.5 mm to 41 mm in width. The design stands out with straight, brutalist lines and sharp angles, as well as the unconventional geometry of the case and a faceted crystal.
Despite the unconventional design, the asymmetry of the (Re)Master02 does not lead to visual imbalance. On the contrary, it creates dynamic tension that draws the eye, turning the watch into an ever-changing spectacle. The sharp angles create an exciting play of light and reflections. Audemars Piguet emphasizes the complexity of crafting the crystal, particularly achieving perfect polishing of its concave side while ensuring perfect transparency and water resistance of the case.
The material is new as well. Audemars Piguet uses exclusive Sand Gold - an 18-carat gold alloy with an unprecedented hue, first appearing on the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked watch earlier this year. Its color, falling between pink and white gold, shimmers beautifully. The finish has also been reimagined. The case is fully satin-finished, except for the polished mirror contour of the dial. These further accentuate the raw, angular character of the case.
Dial
The dial is also quite striking, with a mesmerizing play of light. It is the result of a complex construction requiring painstaking work by skilled artisans. This modernist mosaic consists of a base treated to create twelve partitions into which midnight blue inserts are placed. Their deep blue color, called "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" (used in the Royal Oak Jumbo), is achieved through a PVD process, and the linear matte finish creates striking reflections.
The embossed AP signature, executed with surprising precision, is achieved through electroplating. The slender hands are made of 18-carat sand gold. A pleasing detail is the subtle cutouts in the case at 12, 6, and 9 o'clock to allow the minute hand to pass underneath.
Ultra-Thin Movement
Unlike the original watch, the Audemars Piguet (Re)Master02 has a sapphire case back, revealing the movement with a rich pedigree. The automatic caliber 7129 is based on the recently developed movement used in the latest generation Royal Oak Jumbo - caliber 7121. Its date mechanism was removed, resulting in an even thinner movement - just 2.8 mm (compared to 3.2 mm for caliber 7121).
The variable-inertia balance wheel, located under a transverse bridge, performs 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour. The movement's power reserve is 52 hours. As expected, it features exquisite finishing: Geneva stripes, snailing, sunburst, circular graining, and polished angles. In line with the case, the rotor has an openwork design with asymmetrical cutouts and is made of 22-carat gold with subsequent sand gold coating.
Availability and Price
The whimsical and disruptive Audemars Piguet (Re)Master02 ref. 15240SG is a polarizing design that some will love and others will not. In any case, it will attract attention on the wrist. I find it truly intriguing and recommend you get acquainted with this unconventional model at least to check it out in person.
The watch on a matte-finish blue alligator leather strap with an 18-carat sand gold clasp will be released in a limited edition of 250 pieces. Its price is 38,000 Swiss francs (excluding taxes). More information can be found at www.audemarspiguet.com.