Among microbrands, Echo/Neutra is something of a cult favorite.
What I mean is that this might not be a brand everyone is familiar with, but if you know, you know. The young brand from Italy emerged shortly before COVID and has since been growing stronger every day. Today, I'm reviewing the Chrono GMT model, which is part of the Cortina 1956 collection. This collection is dedicated to the Winter Olympics held in Cortina d'Ampezzo in 1956. The latest model in this line boasts a timeless, yet vintage-inspired design that looks as appealing now as it did almost 70 years ago.
Let's start with the basics. The Echo/Neutra Cortina 1956 Chrono GMT has a diameter of 40 mm and a lug-to-lug length of 46 mm. On paper, the watch has a very wearable size, which is confirmed on the wrist. Being a chronograph, the watch is not ultra-thin: it has a thickness of 14.8 mm (or 12.7 mm excluding the glass). The water resistance of the watch is more than a respectable 100 m, even without a screw-down crown. Considering it's manually wound, a screw-down crown would be preferable. Finally, the watch weighs 79 grams without the strap. The choice of strap will change this figure. I chose to wear the watch mainly on a leather strap, but more on that later.
Black or Bronze - The Choice is Yours
The Cortina 1956 Chrono GMT is available in two different variations. The black-beige version with red accents in Echo/Neutra style uses a mix of cream "Old Radium" and brighter BGW9 lume, giving the watch a vintage look. Not everyone likes the "foxtail" style, but Echo/Neutra has found a way to incorporate it into their design without seeming outlandish.
The second option is bolder and definitely my favorite of the two. Its sunburst bronze dial has black sub-dials that match the outer telemeter bezel. Subtle red accents in this version are less noticeable than on the black dial. Super-LumiNova BGW9 lume is used here, which contrasts slightly better with the bronze dial.
Cortina 1956 Chrono GMT with Bronze Dial Suits Outdoor Leisure
While the brand's marketing presents the watch as a stylish travel companion (and it certainly is, thanks to the GMT function), the colors of the bronze version I present here suit rustic style and outdoor leisure. Thanks to the strap options (bracelet, leather, and tropical), the Cortina 1956 Chrono GMT is surprisingly versatile. As you can see in the photos, I found my favorite style paired with a beautiful waxed canvas jacket.
Chronograph? GMT? Both!
Watches with a GMT chronograph are not unheard of, but they are not very common, especially in the world of microbrands. This is usually due to the availability of affordable movement options, but recently Sellita has expanded its catalog, offering a wider range of complications and configurations. Echo/Neutra chose the SW532M b elaboré manual-winding movement for their Cortina 1956 Chrono GMT, without a date. Hidden behind a stainless steel case back with embossed engraving, the signed movement features a 30-minute counter at "12," a 12-hour counter at "6 o'clock," and a small seconds hand with a day/night indicator at "9 o'clock." The power reserve is 62 hours.
Interestingly, the central GMT hand rotates the dial every 12 hours, not 24. In this case, I prefer the 12-hour scheme. A 24-hour hand ideally needs a 24-hour scale to facilitate quick readings. However, the 12-hour GMT hand can be read using regular hour markers. Additionally, it is linked to the day/night indicator at "9 o'clock." This results in less "clutter" on the dial and bezel, allowing the beautiful bronze background more room to breathe. It is incredibly easy to read the time once you get used to the 12-hour GMT function. The single hand features a luminescent-coated triangle that reaches the hour markers, then an elongated tip for easy minute reading. Thus, one hand efficiently performs the work of two.
Who Even Uses a Telemeter?
Living in 2024, the average person hardly uses the scales adorning most chronograph watches. Surely, most watch enthusiasts have never used a tachymeter, let alone a telemeter. Nevertheless, the Cortina 1956 Chrono GMT is equipped with the latter. If you didn't know, a telemeter scale measures the distance between visible and audible phenomena. Think of a thunderstorm, a lightning flash, and the subsequent roll of thunder. Most would agree it's not the most useful chronograph scale, but again, I can't name a single such scale that's truly useful these days. Perhaps a countdown rotating bezel would be more inherently useful. Nonetheless, the aesthetics remain pleasing to my eye.
Italian Leather is What You Need
I briefly mentioned the strap earlier. With the review watch, Echo/Neutra sent a leather strap and a tropical rubber. You can also choose a metal bracelet, but I would argue that these watches might be better suited for non-bracelet options. Hear me out, okay? RJ and some of my colleagues from WatchTested would say, "Always get the bracelet." For the most part, they are right. However, every now and then, even the most rigid rules have anomalies. In my view, these watches are one such anomaly.
I've only seen photos of the watch on a bracelet; they look dressy enough, and I don't judge them. On the contrary, I want to say that I was very impressed with wearing the watch with the straps from the supplied set. In particular, these watches sing on a handmade black Alpine calf leather strap. It has a beautiful texture and is sufficiently supple on the wrist, with minimal break-in time. As for appearance, I don't think you can beat this combination. I also tried a few other leather straps from my collection. I found that brown leather is a great option if you have a shade that can complement the lovely bronze dial. If not, stick to black with a bit of texture.
The "Tropic" strap is also a good pair. I know it's hard to get excited about such straps these days. It's a simple option for brands that I wouldn't write home about. Indeed, the strap included is standard in quality, but paired with the watch, it looks more attractive than I expected. Given the admirable water resistance of the 100 m case, rubber is undoubtedly a better choice for water activities than leather. An olive/khaki green tropical strap could also look good here. What material and color would you choose if you were changing the strap?
Final Thoughts on the Echo/Neutra Cortina 1956 Chrono GMT
The Echo/Neutra Cortina 1956 Chrono GMT watches are now available on the brand's official website. The cost of the watch without the metal bracelet is 1,970 euros (including VAT) or 1,890 USD / 1,375 GBP (excluding local taxes). Considering the specifications and features, this is a fairly competitive price compared to similar offerings. A chronograph with a 12-hour GMT is undoubtedly a useful combination of features. Of course, if you want the bracelet, you'll need to add a little more to this price.
Overall, the Echo/Neutra Cortina 1956 Chrono GMT watches left a strong impression on me. Not all of my colleagues were thrilled with the design and color scheme. Some found the dial too busy, others too empty. Others, like me, thought it struck the right balance. Either way, with a vast number of watch brands and even more watches to choose from, Echo/Neutra creates watches that stand out from the rest. In five years of the brand's existence, it has developed its signature design style that works. There's no need for one-size-fits-all approaches to watch design, and the Cortina 1956 Chrono GMT model is certainly not one. To learn more, visit the official Echo/Neutra website.