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Bvlgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon Review

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Bulgari

Key Takeaways

  • Bvlgari's Papillon Tourbillon features patented Papillon minutes and a central tourbillon.
  • The 2021 model is housed in a 41mm Octo Roma case.
  • The watch is powered by the in-house BVL 332 caliber with a 60-hour power reserve.

At the 2021 Geneva Watch Days, Bvlgari once again presents the magnificent Papillon Tourbillon watch with jumping hours, patented Papillon (butterfly) minutes, and a central tourbillon in the Octo Roma case. Introduced in 2015, the Papillon Tourbillon was created by Bvlgari, combining Daniel Roth's innovative butterfly time indication complication with an impressive central flying tourbillon. The new 41mm Papillon model is smaller than the original 45mm model and features Daniel Roth's distinctive design traits, as well as the equally impressive Octo Roma case.

BRIEF HISTORY

In an effort to elevate its watchmaking game, the Bvlgari Group acquired two heavyweight names in elite watchmaking in 2000: Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth. This acquisition laid the foundation for the creation of the magnificent and successful Octo Finissimo collection and an impressive series of world records in watchmaking. Although Roth left the company the following year, Bvlgari inherited his powerful design and technical know-how to create some of the most striking pieces in its collection. The Bvlgari Papillon model, introduced in 2015, utilized Roth's original time indication complication and added a central tourbillon.

PAPILLON TIME INDICATION

The 24-hour jumping hour appears in a gold-framed aperture at noon, while the minutes, which initially may appear retrograde, are indicated by two independent retractable diamond-shaped hands. Each 18-carat gold hand traces a 180° semicircular minute track (extending from 3 to 9 o'clock). When the first hand reaches the 55th minute on the track, the second hand simultaneously makes a gradual quarter-turn to align parallel to the first at the 00-minute indication and begins its journey. Once the second hand takes its position, the first hand retracts and remains stationary for the next 55 minutes.

By the way, you might also be interested in: First Look at the Tissot PRX Blue Panda Automatic Chronograph

Bvlgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon watch face detail

Unlike a traditional retrograde hand, which jumps back to the starting position, causing wear on the mechanism and consuming a lot of energy, the alternating hands of the Papillon watch consume less energy and therefore have less impact on the power reserve. When one of the butterfly hands reaches the 60-minute mark, the jumping hour mechanism on a ceramic ball bearing is activated.

Close-up of Papillon time indication mechanism

Adding even more dynamism to the scene is the centrally mounted tourbillon, which is a rarity in watchmaking due to the complexity required to position it at the center of the dial.

OCTO ROMA CASE

Unlike the 2015 Papillon Tourbillon model, the 2021 model is housed in a 41mm Octo Roma case. The octagonal geometry of the Octo case, which debuted in 2012, was borrowed from the impressive arches supporting the Basilica of Maxentius at the Roman Forum. The iconic stacked architecture became the basis for the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo legion. In 2017, Bvlgari introduced a softer, more rounded version of the Octo - the Octo Roma. Clearly, the octagonal central container was retained, but it was topped with a smooth, round, matte bezel; instead of the 110 razor-sharp edges of the Octo Finissimo, the Octo Roma is limited to 58. Besides simple models with time and date, the Octo Roma has featured the impressive Carillon tourbillon and the jewel-like Tourbillon Sapphire Malachite.

Bvlgari Octo Roma case design and geometry

The 41mm rose gold case of the new Octo Papillon Central Tourbillon model features a matte bezel and contrasting polished finish on the middle section of the octagonal case. The rose gold crown with black ceramic insert complements the elegant matte black and gold color scheme of the dial.

Rose gold case and ceramic crown of the Bvlgari Octo Roma

CALIBER BVL 332

Through the sapphire case back, you can see the in-house Bvlgari BVL 332 caliber, a hand-wound movement developed and assembled by watchmakers. Although the press release lacks details, it is likely an upgrade of the original central tourbillon BVL 266 with the patented Papillon minute system created for the 2015 release. The central bridge with radial cutouts and anthracite finish gives the movement an attractive modern look, and the power reserve indicator, initially positioned vertically, is now aligned horizontally. The movement, running at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations/hour or 3 Hz, can maintain a power reserve of up to 60 hours.

By the way, you might also be interested in: The All-Black Bvlgari Octo Roma Automatic & Chronograph Model

Back view of the Bvlgari BVL 332 caliber through sapphire case

The Bvlgari Octo Roma Tourbillon Central Papillon watch comes on a matte black alligator leather strap with a rose gold folding clasp. Price to be confirmed.

For more information, visit Bvlgari.com.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - BVLGARI OCTO ROMA CENTRAL TOURBILLON PAPILLON
Case: 41 mm diameter - rose gold case, matte and polished - sapphire case back - rose gold crown with black ceramic insert - power reserve indicator on case back
Dial: matte black - retractable Papillon minute hands in rose gold - 24-hour jumping hour indication in the aperture at noon - central flying tourbillon - semicircular minute track with gold numerals
Movement: caliber BVL 332 - In-house hand-wound movement - patented Papillon minute hands - jumping hours on ceramic ball bearing - flying tourbillon - 21,600 vibrations/hour or 3 Hz - power reserve of 60 hours
Strap: matte black alligator leather - rose gold folding clasp
Reference: 103475
Price: to be confirmed