The Russian watch company Raketa is no stranger to intriguing and unusual complications that set it apart from competitors. From celestial-themed watches with hands moving counterclockwise to the bold "Big Zero" model with prominent Arabic numerals that are impossible to miss, it seems each model has its unique signature. In the case of the new Leopard 24 watch, a deep dive is required to understand how far Raketa has gone to maintain a consistent theme of Soviet submarines.
When looking at the lineup of Raketa, both past and present, it's clear that this company takes pride in its heritage - and rightly so. In the tapestry of Russian space travel, there is a special thread dedicated to cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin and his landmark spaceflight, which led to the creation of the Raketa brand itself. The sister brand, Podeba, was worn on Gagarin's wrist when he launched into space. It can be said that since then, Raketa has focused on incorporating specific instrument functions into its watches.
The Raketa factory is located in Saint Petersburg, a stone's throw from the Baltic Sea. Given such proximity, it is quite fitting that there are historical ties between the company and Soviet naval operations. Making watches for servicemen, especially those aboard submarines, requires special attention. Submariners typically operate at depth for several months at a time. In the confined space of these iron giants, space is limited, and distinguishing day from night can be challenging. When time begins to blur, a watch becomes not just a luxury but a necessity - a companion to whom each person entrusts their most valuable asset.
To create the Leopard 24 model and ensure that it retains truly functional characteristics, Raketa sought advice from someone who knows this better than anyone else. Captain Valery Dyakonov has a rich history associated with Russian submarines, particularly with the Akula-class SSN submarine "Leopard," after which these watches are named. The SSN designation means that the "Leopard" is a nuclear-powered attack submarine. Captain Dyakonov was responsible for overseeing the pre-launch stages of the "Leopard." After completing all necessary sea trials, he assumed the position of commander and went to sea. He held this position until 1996, and then, more than two decades later, he had the opportunity to share his experience and bring a piece of the submarine into the Leopard 24 watch.
The statement that the original Leopard SSN submarine and these watches share the same DNA is quite literal in this case. The Raketa watch factory received steel from the outer hull of the Leopard K-328 submarine from a local shipyard currently responsible for its overhaul. The bezel of each of the 300 released models is made from this submarine steel. The Leopard 24's stainless steel case measures 44 mm in diameter and 14.25 mm thick. A robust knurled crown protrudes at the "3 o'clock" position, making it easy to operate the watch. Sapphire crystal protects the dial and provides a view through the case back. This allows you to see the handcrafted "Omega" waves adorning several components of the movement, along with crimson hardware matching the red-black theme of the dial.
The dial of the Leopard 24 watch is equipped with features appropriate for submarine personnel. Military-time Arabic numerals operate on a 24-hour rotation, bolded and illuminated for easy reading. The hands resemble gauges installed on Soviet submarines, standing out against the black dial background. The entire bezel is surrounded by a ring made of metal extracted from the hull of the Leopard K-328 submarine. Within this ring, opposite lines of red and gray colors form six separate sections. Each of these time segments lasts four hours, allowing naval officers to track their shift. The comprehensive red-black theme in the design of the Leopard 24 is more than meets the eye. While this color combination is excellently legible and timeless, its meaning goes beyond the obvious: these colors are identical to the hull colors of the submarine: black on top, red on the bottom. This is also reflected in the two-tone leather strap that comes standard with every watch.
The powerhouse of the Leopard 24 watch is the automatic caliber 2624A. This specially created 24-hour movement operates at 18,000 vibrations per hour and features a bi-directional rotor, doubling the winding efficiency - a useful feature for both submariners and desk divers. Each Leopard 24 model comes with a box, an additional rubber strap, a signature spring mechanism, and a certificate confirming the use of Leopard K-328 steel. The price of this ocean dweller by pre-order is $1,530.58 (1,292 euros excluding VAT) and includes free worldwide shipping. Whether you want to spend your time exploring the mesopelagic zone in a submersible or prefer more relaxation by the pool reading adventure novels, the Raketa Leopard 24 is ready to carry out your mission, whatever it may be.