Even before I became interested in watches in the late 1990s, I knew what a Rolex Submariner was.
It's one of the most recognizable models, a watch often seen on the big screen and around us. For me, the Submariner is perhaps the most iconic Rolex after the Datejust.
One of the factors that makes the Rolex brand so strong is the long retention of the same references in the collection. Some models were produced for an astonishingly long time: for example, the Submariner 5513 remained in the catalog for almost 30 years, and the model 16610 was produced from 1988 to 2010 without significant changes.
History of Five-Digit Submariner Models
The first Rolex Submariner with a five-digit reference number was the 16800. These watches were introduced in 1979, a year after the release of the first five-digit Sea-Dweller - model 16660. The Submariner 16800 was the first with a sapphire crystal and the then-new caliber 3035.
Then came the Submariner 168000. This model was produced for a short time and became one of the most interesting transitional references in Submariner history. Although the additional zero technically makes the number six digits, the watch served as a link between generations. Moreover, the 168000 was the first model equipped with 904L steel instead of the previously used 316L. 904L steel has greater corrosion resistance but is significantly more expensive to process.
Soon, in 1988 (although some sources name an earlier date, which contradicts the debut of the caliber 3135), Rolex introduced the Submariner 16610. In 1990, the brand also replaced the model 5513 (without a date) with the 14060.
The reference 16610 was equipped with the caliber 3135 - a chronometer movement with a date. At the same time, the Submariner 14060 was initially equipped with the caliber 3000 - not qualified as a chronometer. In 1999, Rolex updated this movement to the caliber 3130 with a Breguet hairspring and a balance bridge instead of a traditional balance cock - the reference changed to 14060M.
Collectors long referred to this model as the "two-line" because the text on the dial at the "6 o'clock" position was limited to two lines: "Submariner" and "1000ft = 300m". In 2007, Rolex added the inscriptions "Superlative Chronometer" and "Officially Certified," turning the 14060M into a "four-line" model. At the same time, the mechanism did not change - the watch simply received COSC certification.
Rolex Submariner ref. 16610LV - "Kermit"
In 2003, the Submariner (Date) family was enriched with a new reference 16610LV, released to mark the 50th anniversary of the collection. The feature was a green bezel and a "maxi" dial with enlarged luminescent markers. The most famous version is the one with the "flat four" on the bezel - the shape of the number "4" at the "40" mark is distinctive and only found on the first releases of the 16610LV.
The regular Submariner 16610 underwent several changes during its production: the holes for strap attachment disappeared (2003), a rehaut engraved with the Rolex logo appeared (2005), and a transition from tritium to Super-LumiNova occurred (1998).
Evolution of Clasps and Bracelets
These changes affected almost all Rolex sports models of that time. Around 2000, the brand improved bracelets by equipping them with solid end links (SEL - solid end links). However, visually, five-digit Submariner models changed little, which perhaps contributed to their high recognizability. In the late 2000s, collectors, including myself, criticized Rolex for a lack of innovation, especially in bracelets. The stamped clasp, although reliable, looked outdated and was inferior to competitors.
There were also Rolesor models - a combination of steel and gold, which ceased production earlier than the steel 16610(LV) and 14060M. They were replaced in 2008, while the steel ones were replaced in 2010. This marked the transition to the new steel Submariners with ceramic bezel inserts and updated bracelets.
History of Six-Digit Submariner Models
Rolex first introduced a white gold Submariner - reference 116619LB with a blue dial and Cerachrom ceramic bezel. In 2010, the steel models 16610 and 14060M were replaced by 116610 and 114060, respectively. The gold 16618 became 116618, and other references followed a similar numbering. Rolex strives for simplicity and logic.
The new Submariners received several important updates: a Cerachrom ceramic bezel, a bracelet with a tool-free adjustment system in the clasp. The case changed: the diameter remained 40 mm, but the lugs became bulkier, and the protective shoulders of the crown thicker. The dial received "maxi" markers and broader hands. The Chromalight luminescent technology, a proprietary Rolex development, appeared. Combined with the "super case," the watch looks larger while maintaining the same dimensions.
Inside, the Submariner with a date retained the caliber 3135, while the no-date model 114060 housed the caliber 3130. Both movements were updated, featuring new materials, solutions to reduce friction, and a Parachrom hairspring.
Rolex Submariner ref. 116610LV - "Hulk"
The Submariner was offered in black (116610LN) and with a green bezel (116610LV). The latter also featured a green dial and quickly earned the nickname "Hulk" for its color and massive appearance.
In October 2020, Rolex unexpectedly introduced a new generation of the Submariner. Due to the cancellation of Baselworld, the brand released the models independently, without participating in a major exhibition. The reference numbers also changed: instead of the second "1," there is now a "2." Thus, 116610 became 126610.
The two main changes concerned the case: the diameter increased from 40 to 41 mm, and the lug width from 20 to 21 mm. Despite the increase in size, the watches look more refined due to thinner lugs. Rolex moved away from bulky forms.
Additionally, the new models received modern calibers 3235 (with date) and 3230 (without date). These movements appeared in 2015, feature an increased power reserve - 70 hours instead of 48, and are equipped with the innovative Chronergy escapement. The escape wheel is perforated to reduce inertia and is made of an antimagnetic nickel-phosphor alloy. Caliber 3235 consists of 90% new parts compared to 3135, including a new rotor system. The design uses a ball-bearing support instead of a traditional axle, improving reliability and reducing friction.
Rolex once again released an anniversary model for the 50th anniversary of the collection - 126610LV, nicknamed "Starbucks" for its green bezel and black dial, reminiscent of the famous coffee chain's logo.
What to Choose - Five or Six-Digit Rolex Submariner?
Since my interest in watches arose in the 1990s, my first associations with the Submariner are tied to the five-digit references of that period. These models remained in the collection until 2010, so there are many in circulation. In the Rolex book on the Submariner (author - Nicholas Foulkes), the exact production numbers are listed: for example, 646,613 pieces of the 16610 were produced. The six-digit 116610 was produced in a run of 414,905 units from 2010 to 2020. At the time of the book's publication, the production of the modern 126610 (since 2020) reached 177,328 watches. Since 2010, many modern Submariners have appeared on the secondary market, so choosing a five- or six-digit reference is not difficult.
Price Difference Between Five and Six-Digit Submariners
The modern Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN retails for around €11,100. However, finding it in a boutique is challenging - usually, one needs to queue or search on the secondary market, where the price can exceed retail by several hundred or even a thousand euros if in good condition. One can also consider the predecessor 116610LN with bulkier lugs - today, it can be found for about €10,000. Prices vary depending on condition: NOS (new old stock) is more expensive, while pieces with signs of wear are cheaper.
The five-digit Submariner 16610, except for the LV "Kermit," starts at about €8,000 in good condition. NOS models or those with a full set will cost more.
Did the Six-Digit Model Improve the Legend?
The quality has undoubtedly improved. Each new Rolex version receives ergonomic and quality updates. Overall, the six-digit models look more modern, mainly due to new bracelets and ceramic bezels. Personally, I owned a Submariner 114060 (2013) and realized that the modern model with a ceramic bezel is not for me - not only because of the bulky lugs but also due to the bezel's shine. Therefore, aside from the price factor, the choice largely depends on personal preferences.
For some, the 16610 or 14060 are just thirty-year-old watches, while for others, they're the pinnacle of Rolex. They are a safe choice for those who love the old four-digit references but find them too expensive or difficult to maintain. The design, apart from the sapphire crystals and glossy dials, has remained quite close. All Submariners after 2010 noticeably depart from the vintage style.
Modern Rolex Movements
As for the movements, the 32xx series on paper is better due to its efficient escapement and greater power reserve. However, some problems are known: low amplitude, unstable operation, a power reserve lower than stated. According to watchmakers we spoke to, most issues are related to lubrication. Rolex is aware of this and quickly addresses defects, making small changes to the movement. The caliber 3135 has already established itself as a reliable and easy-to-maintain movement with a long production period (1988–2015).
Rolex Submariner ref. 126613LB
When servicing, it's important to know that Rolex differentiates between vintage and modern models. During a recent visit to a Rolex service center, we were informed that five-digit references are considered modern for repairs and servicing.
Which Submariner do you prefer - five-digit or six-digit? Vote and share your favorite references in the comments.