Creativity in watchmaking is a constant topic of conversation.
Few can match the innovations of Hermès, and many can learn from this brand. The new Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé model, equipped with a central triple-axis high-frequency tourbillon and a minute repeater, showcases impeccable craftsmanship and design. The design of these watches seamlessly incorporates an equestrian theme.
Hermès' Journey into Haute Horlogerie
Initially known as a manufacturer of horse harnesses, Hermès later became a producer of travel accessories, fashion, home goods, and jewelry, beginning its journey into wristwatches in 1928 when it collaborated with the Swiss manufacturer Movado to produce watches for sale. The first Hermès wristwatch was made in 1912 as a gift for the daughter of Émile Hermès.
In 1978, a significant event occurred: the La Montre Hermès division was established in Biel, and the iconic Arceau watches debuted, conceptualized by then creative director Henri d'Origny. The distinctive offset and curved lugs of the Arceau, inspired by the form of a stirrup, perfectly embodied the combination of elegance and Hermès' equestrian heritage.
Since its inception, the Arceau collection has continually evolved, offering various complications, colors, dials, and materials while maintaining elegance and classic lines often reminiscent of equestrian sports. The Arceau Lift Tourbillon volant model, introduced in 2013 with the H1923 manual winding movement made in La Chaux-de-Fonds, marked Hermès' entry into the high-end watch market.
A similar model, the Arceau Lift Tourbillon répétition minutes, introduced in 2020, featured the manual winding H1924 movement equipped with a flying tourbillon, a minute repeater, and an impressive 90-hour power reserve, developed in collaboration with the late Pierre Favre of the Manufacture de Hautes Complications. The watch features an intertwined double 'H' tourbillon cage inspired by the elevator door of Hermès' flagship store in Paris at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, hence the name 'Lift'.
The Stunning Duc Attelé
The latest model in the Hermès Arceau collection, the Duc Attelé (translated as 'harnessed duke'), retains the double 'H' lift motif, emphasizing its stunning - pun intended - mechanism. Let's take a closer look at the titanium version we photographed (the watch is also available in a 5N pink gold case).
The grade 5 titanium case of the Arceau Duc Attelé is meticulously polished and measures 43 mm in diameter. The signature stirrup lugs remain unchanged, as do the crown positioned at '3 o'clock' and the minute repeater lever opposite it. The dial is revealed through an impressive domed sapphire glass, showcasing a mesmerizing image against a striped guilloché pattern with an anthracite finish.
The domed hour and minute ring is light gray with rhodium plating, adorned with a sunburst pattern, surrounding the captivating triple-axis tourbillon. This ring appears suspended above the main surface, with two blue indicators moving along its slope, marking the passage of time. Meanwhile, the harmoniously inclined Arabic indices seem to follow the movement of the 'hands'.
The polished titanium frame of the central triple-axis tourbillon is adorned with the double 'H', and the three carriages rotate in 300, 60, and 25 seconds, with the outer one lasting the longest. The mirror-polished 'equestrian' hammers of the minute repeater occupy a prominent position at '6 o'clock', accompanied by a power reserve indicator with blue accents matching the time indicators above.
U-shaped peripheral 'tuning-fork' gongs made of hardened steel encircle the entire dial. When activated, these gongs melodiously chime, marking the passage of hours, quarters, and minutes, adding a charming dimension to the watch. Furthermore, the unprecedented shape of the gongs (indeed very natural...) enhances the effect of resonance and sound.
The new H1926 manual winding caliber, created in collaboration with Le Cercle des Horlogers, a renowned movement developer from La Chaux-de-Fonds, is proudly displayed through the sapphire glass case back. The movement's bridges are treated with anthracite PVD coating, and the open-worked sapphire glass striking bridge allows a glimpse into the intricate mechanisms and enhances the resonance of the gongs. During personal testing, the sound quality produced by the gongs was truly remarkable.
Named after the year of significant renovation of the store on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the H1926 model pays tribute to the carriage that inspired the creation of the modern Hermès logo. This emblem, in turn, draws inspiration from the painting 'Duc attelé et groom à l’attente' by Alfred de Dreux, a famous 19th-century artist.
The influence of this heritage is evident in the intricate details of the mechanism - for example, in the unusually narrow spokes of the gears, designed to resemble carriage wheels. Also, note the quarter rack in the shape of a horse and man located at '6 o'clock' where the repeater is, as well as the hour rack and rack wheel. In the center, the minute snail is adjacent to the 12-tooth star wheel mounted on the hour snail.
The triple-axis tourbillon enhances timekeeping precision by reducing positional errors, while the balance wheel's oscillation frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour) increases the stability of its movement. However, both mechanisms require a substantial amount of energy, and to meet this need, the watch is equipped with a double barrel system providing a 48-hour power reserve. As expected, the manual finishing of the 563-component movement is exemplary.
Availability and Price
The new Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé watches are released in limited series of 24 pieces each in titanium and pink gold and come with a matte anthracite (titanium case) or matte abyss blue alligator leather strap (pink gold case). Prices are available upon request. More information can be found on the hermes.com website.