One of the most enduring types of classic watches are military watches designed for pilots.
The golden era for these watches was the mid-20th century, when many companies produced timepieces for military organizations worldwide. Instead of creating entirely original designs, brands released products that met the technical specifications set by military organizations. One of the most famous types of military pilot watches in the 20th century were the watches with Type 20 dials, later evolving into Type 21. Many companies, including Airain, produced watches with Type 20 or Type 21 dials.
Founded by the Dodane family (another brand that made chronograph watches for military aviation), Airain produced Type 20 and Type 21 watches in the 1950s and 1960s. Today, Airain is back under Dutch ownership but proudly produces Swiss-made products. Airain has already released "re-editions" of its watches with Type 20 dials, and today I am reviewing the Airain Type 21 Re-Edition reference 423.438, which excels at creating vintage military watches using entirely modern materials and construction.
The Airain Type 20 and Type 21 Re-Edition watches are similar in design, style, and price. Moreover, both models are released in limited editions, which Airain claims will later become part of the permanent collection. The original Type 21 dial was conceived as a slightly altered Type 20, with more emphasis on legibility and refinement. From a practical standpoint, the preference between Type 20 and Type 21 dials is a matter of taste. I prefer Type 21 because its dial is, in my opinion, slightly simpler, more elegant, and easier to read.
Some vintage-style watches feel modern when worn and handled, while others aim to replicate the appearance and actual feel of the original models. This is the approach Airain takes with the Type 20 and Type 21 models. The cases are modest in size, the design is fortunately restrained, and the sapphire crystals over the dials mimic the shape and look of old acrylic crystals.
Airain even decided to use a manual-winding movement (rather than automatic) to match the "classic" wearing style. Another advantage of using a manual movement is that it allows for a thinner case.
The Airain Type 21 case is made of polished steel, measuring 39 mm in width (39.5 mm with the bezel) and only 10.9 mm in thickness (not including the crystal, which adds about two more millimeters). The case has a modest lug-to-lug length of 47.7 mm and is water-resistant up to 50 meters (without a screw-down crown, as it would make regular winding less convenient).
This is a good opportunity to complement the crown design, which is convenient to operate and does not appear disproportionately large.
The freely rotating bezel for the second time zone is an attractive and distinctive feature of the Airain Type 21 case. Despite its free movement, it is sufficiently reliable and allows you to track time in another location using the hour markers on the bezel.
The bezel is made of steel and visually appealing. Airain decided to use the "old radium" color for the luminous coating of the hands and hour markers. I am a fan of this color, as white seems too harsh to me. These khaki colors combined with the black dial always look pleasant to my eyes. The dial design is nothing original, as most watch enthusiasts are familiar with Type 20 and Type 21 chronograph dials. Nevertheless, Airain has managed to think through many details and create a sexy, historical, and serious image for the Type 21 Re-Edition.
What's inside the Type 21? You cannot see the movement through the case back, as Airain wanted the Type 21 to have a simple case back in the style of military watches.
The brand calls the movement installed in the Type 20 and Type 21 Re-Edition the Airain AM2. It is a modern chronograph movement based on the Sellita SW510, from which the automatic winding system has been removed, and the dial displays a 30-minute chronograph. It is worth noting that the column-wheel chronograph is also equipped with a flyback function, which allows instant resetting of the chronograph readings without prior stopping. The movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz and has a 63-hour power reserve.
Airain also claims that the movements undergo individual testing (up to five positions) and are regulated for maximum accuracy and performance. I confess, I prefer watches with automatic winding, but given their features, I don't mind winding these watches manually, as it is truly pleasant to do.
The Type 21 Re-Edition is not a budget watch, and accordingly, Airain includes high-end packaging along with an additional light brown suede strap. The Airain package even includes two different clasps that can be interchanged, although I would have preferred that the brown strap didn't require the exact same hardware as the black one.
This means that if you want to regularly change straps, you will have to switch the buckle hardware as well, which is not very convenient. For Airain, it shouldn't be a difficult decision to include just a few extra small metal parts to solve this problem.
Even if you are not very interested in military aviation history or don't know that Airain supplied watches to the French military, the Type 21 can be a very enjoyable product. Such classic-style sports watches remain consistently popular because they are fashionable and rarely inappropriate in any setting.
These "professional" mid-20th-century watches have persisted to this day in various forms, regardless of whether they were intended for divers, drivers, pilots, or soldiers. The conservative look, light atmosphere of adventure and class, and appeal to enthusiasts contribute to the success of watches like the Airain Type 21.
With modern durability, reasonable size, and relaxed style, I easily chose these watches for wearing.
The price of the Airain Type 21 Re-Edition reference 423.438 is $3,196 USD. For more information, visit the Airain website.
Necessary Data
- Brand: Airain
- Model: Type 21 Re-Edition reference 423.438
- Price: $3,196 USD
- Dimensions: 39.5 mm wide (with bezel), 10.9 mm thick (without crystal), 47.7 mm lug-to-lug
- When you'll personally wear them: As everyday sports or casual watches thanks to their timeless style and simplicity.
- Friends we would recommend them to first: Fans of military or aviation history who have a collection with Type 20 or Type 21 dials.
- Best characteristic of the watch: Excellent fit and finish, vintage style in modern wristwatches. Comfortable wear, a good set, and a clear dial. Will remain fashionable for years to come.
- Worst characteristic of the watch: Vintage-style sapphire glass causes reflections, but not much. A bit thick despite having a manual-winding movement. Need to provide clasps for both straps.