One of the most renowned independent watch companies in the Netherlands, Holthinrichs has focused from the start on a rather unique feature: 3D-printed cases made from various materials (including steel, titanium, bronze, or gold).
Of course, the brand is not limited to this, including a strong design language and genuine craftsmanship in finishing. Today, the brand's founder, Michiel, presents his latest creation - the Holthinrichs Signature Ornament watch - as well as two other variations. And this new entry-level piece, again with bold design, is free from 3D printing... Is that really so? Not quite, but more on that later.
Although Holthinrichs' 3D-printed metal cases are utterly charming and visually appealing, they have some drawbacks. Firstly, the cost. Using such high-tech processes to create a watch case requires time, skill, and special equipment, all of which are expensive. Secondly, the 3D-printed surfaces need manual finishing in some areas to achieve the desired refinement - even though some watches, such as the RAW Ornament, were deliberately left almost untouched by Michiel. Again, this implies costs. Finally, the initial series were equipped with manually wound movements and were also hand-finished. All this does not contribute to creating more affordable watches.
For the new entry-level Holthinrichs Signature Ornament watch, Michiel had to make some concessions. First and foremost, 3D printing was abandoned (well, not quite, as you will see), and the movement became a slightly more basic option - reliable, well-known, but adapted. Where there were no compromises was in the design: the new Signature Series is still radically different from others, original and expressive.
Holthinrichs drew inspiration from architecture and classic car design, resulting in an extraordinarily smooth and spacious composition, particularly sculptural lugs. These are separated from the case and made as three-dimensional objects. And while the cases of the Signature Ornament and Ornament Delft Blue are manufactured on CNC machines, they retain some classic brand features, such as RAW finishing with matte and grained surfaces.
Holthinrichs Signature Ornament
Besides being a more affordable option, the Holthinrichs Signature series primarily represents a strong design statement, following the previous collections. This does not mean that nothing has changed, but the design, shapes, and textures - key elements of the Holthinrichs style - have been preserved.
The Signature watch is quite compact with a diameter of 38.5 mm and an overall thickness of 9.85 mm (7.8 mm without crystals), made from grade 5 titanium. As mentioned, the construction and design are far from simple: sculptural lug elements frame the case, combining both hand polishing and typical Holthinrichs RAW surfaces. Sapphire crystals are placed on both sides, and water resistance is 50 m. Although we have not yet seen these watches in metal, both the original design and the short 46 mm L2L look promising.
The dials are again far from simple. The complex multi-layer construction includes firstly a matte metal plate, available in 14-karat yellow gold, 18-karat rose gold, white rhodium, or black rhodium options. The second layer of the dial is formed by a custom double-domed sapphire, giving the dial an illusory optical depth. The logo and minute markers applied on the sapphire appear to float. The third and final layer is a ring with markers, carved from a solid piece of metal. The 12-hour markers are directed towards the center of the dial and overhang the sapphire surface. Time is indicated by classic openwork Holthinrichs hands with a matte top surface and large diamond bevel.
As for the movement, to offer the new Holthinrichs Signature series at a lower price than previous creations, the brand chose the reliable Sellita SW300. This thin automatic movement was equipped with a unique custom-made rotor, echoing the cantilevered markers on the dial. The rotor, consisting of five segments reminiscent of sunrise reflections, has a matte finish on the top surface with contrasting polished bevels, as well as gold plating and a tungsten weight. Several Epsom leather strap options are available (cognac/gray/green).
The Holthinrichs Signature Ornament will be released as a permanent collection, priced at 3,500 euros (excluding VAT).
Holthinrichs Signature Ornament Delft Blue
As a tribute to the city where Holthinrichs is headquartered and the traditional white and blue pottery workshops of Delft, the brand releases a more classic watch model with a Delft Blue ceramic dial. While the titanium case and movement are identical to the standard versions, the dial plays on traditional notes with a flat dial surrounded by an inner flange. The white base is complemented by clear blue Breguet-style numerals and blued hands. The watch can be worn on a taupe, cognac, or dark blue ostrich leather strap.
The Signature Ornament Delft Blue is also released as a permanent model and costs 3,750 euros (excluding VAT).
Holthinrichs Signature LAB with 3D Printing
For those who thought that a Michiel Holthinrichs watch cannot do without a 3D-printed case, there is good news. In a limited series of 30 pieces, the brand released a more complex version of the Signature LAB with a 3D-printed titanium case. Specifically for this version, the brand went even further, creating thin skeletonized lugs - to such an extent that the team almost did not feel discomfort from structural integrity. The case, again hand-finished, combines matte and RAW surfaces, typical of Holthinrichs' Horlogerie Brut concept.
The dial retains the multi-layered and 3D effect of the classic version, but gains even more textures and colors through the use of pure materials - in this case, a solid piece of patinated copper for the dial, with green color obtained through a natural oxidation process. The base Sellita movement also gets its share of aging: the rotor has a solid layer of patina obtained through an acid heat treatment of proprietary development. The watch is not shown in photographs but can be worn on a rather bold strap made of polished and oiled rooster leg leather.
The price of the Holthinrichs Signature LAB, released in a limited series of 30 pieces, is yet to be announced. More information can be found on holthinrichswatches.com.