When it comes to brands that have left an indelible mark on watchmaking, few can match the achievements of Perrelet's founder and namesake, Abraham-Louis Perrelet. Born in 1729 in the village of Le Locle in the Swiss Neuchâtel mountains, Perrelet achieved his most significant success by developing an automatic winding movement in 1777. While many brands can boast improved complications or escapement innovations in their watchmaking history, it's hard to imagine an innovation that changed the face of horology more than the automatic movement.
Over the past two and a half centuries, the Perrelet company has continued the proud watchmaking traditions of Abraham-Louis, who viewed innovation not merely as complication for complication's sake, but as something that enhances the user experience and serves functional needs. Indeed, Abraham-Louis Perrelet even invented the first pedometer for measuring steps and distance! In later years, Louis-Frederic Perrelet followed in his grandfather's footsteps, focusing his horological ambitions on astronomy and natural sciences, developing a series of 'smart' watches. Clearly, the Perrelet family was ahead of its time. The family's watchmaking prowess was widely recognized, and Louis-Frederic even served as a watchmaker-mechanic to three French kings.
In 2021, the Swiss independent company Perrelet reimagined its approach to watch production, placing a strong emphasis on research and development. As part of the restructuring and commitment to innovation, the brand's owner and president, Miguel Rodriguez, decided that Perrelet watches should be equipped with a new automatic caliber that would undoubtedly bring a smile to Abraham-Louis's face. As Rodriguez notes: "We have an advantage: we own several factories for producing movements and components. Combined with our prestigious heritage, this sets us apart as one of the leading independent watch companies in Switzerland." This consolidation of production under one metaphorical roof allows Perrelet to create everything - from pallets and balances to escapements and balance springs - in line with their stringent technical requirements. The result? The P-331-MH automatic caliber, 100% made in the Jura Valley in Switzerland.
The P-331-MH significantly differs from its predecessor: improved finishing of the escape wheel teeth, higher quality rubies, a new reverse lubrication system for better bi-directional winding performance, and a balance wheel equipped with a dual-cone Incabloc® shock absorber for impact protection. Ultimately, these enhancements led to the creation of a movement certified Chronofiable® by Laboratorie Dubois in La Chaux-de-Fonds - a certification where the movement undergoes all tests, from accelerated aging and stem tensile tests to 5000G shock tests, not to mention resistance to temperature fluctuations and magnetic fields. With such a robust and reliable movement, it's no surprise that the P-331-MH boasts a COSC chronometer certificate.
As impressive as the new movement is, the magic happens when the P-331-MH is used in the uniquely distinctive Turbine collection. Launched in 2009, the Turbine line features dials brought to life by Perrelet's Turbine technology. An evolution of Perrelet's double rotor technology, which uses a double pendulum (one positioned under the caliber and the other on the dial side) that synchronously rotates to drive the mainspring, the Turbine technology creates a dynamic and animated dial, providing a dazzling wrist spectacle. The Turbine line includes a variety of styles, but the Turbine Evo model represents the brand's fresh take on classic sports watches. The Turbine Evo is housed in a 44mm stainless steel case, featuring a sleek flat bezel and pronounced lugs that blend seamlessly with both an integrated bracelet and strap.
Enhancements throughout the case allow the unique Turbine Evo dial to shine. Twelve black anodized propeller blades on the dial (with five tungsten counterweights) create a mesmerizing effect as they spin with wrist movement, revealing bright shades of red, electric blue, or gold on the sub-dial beneath the blades. The hour and minute hands are luminescent, and the second hand is color-matched to the sub-dial. In addition to the variety of dial colors, the case can be made of stainless steel or with black or gold PVD coating. Regardless of which model you choose, the automatic P-331-MH movement will be on display behind the sapphire case back.
If your tastes lean more towards aviation, be sure to check out the aviation-inspired Turbine Pilot model. First released in 2014, the Turbine Pilot features the signature double rotor dial but is enhanced with classic elements such as bold Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9 and a circular slide rule. Modern aesthetics and execution combined with traditional analog tools for flight calculations create an original yet highly functional take on pilot watches.
The Turbine Pilot watches, with a 48mm case diameter, made of stainless steel with a black PVD coating, are water-resistant up to 50 meters. Unlike traditional watches, the crown at the "3 o'clock" position controls the bidirectional rotating bezel, and the time is adjusted via the integrated crown at the "9 o'clock" position.
Like the Turbine Evo model, the Pilot model features luminescent hands and Arabic numerals for nighttime readability. Accent colors on the dial and bezel of each Turbine Pilot model match the striped sub-dial that is revealed as the propeller blades spin with wrist movement. Again, the P-331-MH is on display behind the sapphire case back. Each color of the Turbine Pilot collection pairs with straps made of rubber, fabric and rubber, or leather and rubber with a folding clasp, complementing the case and dial.
The Perrelet Turbine Evo collection is priced at $4,180, and the Turbine Pilot collection is priced at $4,980. More detailed information about the Perrelet P-331-MH automatic movement, the Turbine line of watches, and their rich history can be found on the brand's website.