Sometimes, a watch comes along that deserves special attention.
When I first saw the Toledano & Chan B/1 with a lapis lazuli dial, it awakened a deep admiration in me for design, not just in watchmaking, but overall. The exquisitely crafted case, detailed bracelet, and stunning lapis lazuli dial created a piece I perceive as more than just a beautiful watch, especially since its design is inspired by architecture. With the release of the new B/1.3r model, the concept has become even more intriguing. This version is made of lightweight titanium, slightly reduced in size, and features a dial made of solid 18-carat gold. I had the opportunity to explore this new offering from Toledano & Chan in more detail.
History and Concept of Toledano & Chan B/1.3r
For those unfamiliar with the Toledano & Chan brand, it is the brainchild of the design duo Phil Toledano and Alfred Chan. Both were captivated by watches of the 1970s and Brutalist architecture, which led to the creation of their first model, the B/1. Of course, this is just a brief overview of their collaboration and the founding of the brand.
Following its debut, the B/1.2 replaced the lapis lazuli dial with mother-of-pearl, giving the watch a softer appearance. Additionally, the asymmetrical sapphire crystal added character and visual depth.
The new B/1.3r model is the third regular release, although it is technically the fourth public release. It is known that Toledano & Chan created a prototype B/1M made from meteorite material, which was sold at auction in 2024. Subsequently, the founders released a small series of production models made from meteorite.
Additionally, unique carbon fiber watches with copper filling and a prototype B/2 with a new case and a gilded 24-carat dial were presented. Both models were also auctioned in 2024 and 2025, respectively. Thus, while the B/1.3r is the third regular release, we have already seen many interesting solutions from Toledano & Chan.
Features of the B/1.3r Case and Bracelet
Let's look at the key differences of the new model. The case and bracelet of the B/1.3r are made from lightweight Grade 5 titanium. This makes the watch significantly lighter than its predecessors, the B/1 and B/1.2, which were made of stainless steel. Additionally, titanium has a darker gray hue that looks stylish, especially in combination with the solid 18-carat gold dial with a pattern reminiscent of water ripples.
The dimensions of the model have also been slightly reduced: the case diameter is 32 mm, the length is 31.5 mm, and the thickness varies from 9.1 to 10.4 mm due to the asymmetrical design. The reduction in diameter by only 1.5 mm makes the watch more elegant. Meanwhile, the crown's position on the left side - destro - has been retained. Excellent design is always in the details, and I appreciate that the founders meticulously worked on and optimized each of them.
The finish of the case and bracelet deserves special attention. The vertical satin finish highlights the details and gives the product character. Considering the complexity of titanium processing, the quality of the B/1.3r execution impresses me and my colleagues from WatchTested.
New 18-Carat Gold Dial with 'Ripple' Pattern
This version features a new dial that moves away from the stone solutions of the first models. Instead of the obvious choice of another stone, the designers opted for 18-carat yellow gold with a texture reminiscent of water ripples. The gold has a rich texture, creating an impressive depth. The look is completed by two asymmetrical, sharp hands that harmoniously fit into the design.
Combined with the faceted sapphire crystal, the dial creates a striking visual impression. The laser engraving