In the rare universe of Bovet, consisting of formidable complications and luxuriously decorated watches, the 19Thirty model is one of the “simpler”, less extravagant models: It represents Pascal Raffy's vision of “everyday” watches. Introduced in 2015, the 19Thirty model features the Fleurier case style with a crown at the “12 o'clock” position and an auxiliary seconds hand on the dial, giving it a distinct pocket watch character. Its everyday functionality is reflected in the slim 42-millimeter stainless steel case and reliable 7-day power reserve. The red guilloché dial, introduced in February this year, was so popular that Bovet is releasing another guilloché dial, this time in a magnificent turquoise shade that changes depending on the lighting.
POCKET WATCH MUSE
The inspiration for the 19Thirty collection came from Bovet's pocket watches of the 1930s with a small retractable stand. Known as a “pupitre”, the stand allowed the pocket watch to be used as a table clock. The latest 19Thirty model is crafted in a 42-millimeter stainless steel case with a slim height of 9.05 mm and polished finish. The crown at the “12 o'clock” position and strap lugs are adorned with blue sapphire cabochons matching the dial's color scheme and the dark blue alligator leather strap with turquoise stitching. For added comfort, the top part of the case is hinged and fits snugly on the wrist.
As with other models in the 19Thirty collection, time is indicated via an off-center hours and minutes counter with Roman numerals and a smaller seconds counter with Arabic numerals at the “6 o'clock” position. The new model is entirely in-house - a stunning guilloché pattern adorns the sub-dials. Hand-engraved on a rose engine lathe, the intricate pattern radiates from the center of the dials like peacock feathers, then covered with a layer of translucent turquoise lacquer. Once the lacquer dries, the dials are polished to reveal the guilloché patterns. Depending on lighting conditions, the guilloché pattern creates colors reminiscent of the tropical waters of the Caribbean Sea, from darker and richer blues.
The time functions are set against three different backgrounds: classic hand-engraved Fleurisanne motifs or more restrained silver or blackened Côtes de Genève backgrounds. The power reserve indicator at the “3 o'clock” position warns the owner when the watch needs winding.
CALIBER 15BM04
Although the press kit does not include an image of the movement, the in-house hand-wound caliber 15BM04 can be viewed through the sapphire glass case back, which the Bovet brothers invented in the early 19th century, allowing owners to admire the exquisite finish of their pocket watches. The symmetry on the dial of this Fleurier 19Thirty model extends to the movement: the balance and central wheel bridges are aligned and visible through two apertures in the bridge. In fact, while the dial appears as a solid ¾ plate, the bridge is crossed by a wavy line with openings revealing other movement details. Thanks to a high level of vertical integration - in-house production of movements and dials - Bovet currently manufactures about 85% of its calibers in-house. The caliber 15BM04 was specifically developed for this collection. Like pocket watch movements, the large 15 ¾ ligne caliber (35.53 mm) fills all available space and provides an exceptional 7-day power reserve on a single barrel. The finish matches Bovet's craftsmanship: blued screws, perlage on the main plate, and Côtes de Genève stripes on the bridges.
AVAILABILITY AND PRICE
In addition to this 19Thirty model in steel with turquoise guilloché, Bovet will also release a version in 18-carat red gold. Each series is strictly limited to 60 watches. The stainless steel model, reference NTS0054, is priced at 19,500 Swiss Francs (21,500$), while the red gold reference NTR0054 is priced at 33,200 Swiss Francs (36,500$).
More detailed information can be found on the Bovet website.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – BOVET 19IRTY GUILLOCHÉ
Case: diameter 42 mm x height 9.05 mm – Fleurier-style case in stainless steel or 18-carat red gold, polished – sapphire cabochons on crown and lugs – water resistance 30 m – sapphire glass front and back
Dial: guilloché decoration with turquoise lacquer on sub-dials – upper sub-dial for hours and minutes with white Roman numerals, lower sub-dial for seconds with Arabic numerals – available with hand-engraved Fleurisanne bridges, silver-plated Côtes de Genève or black Côtes de Genève – power reserve indicator at 3 o'clock
Movement: in-house caliber 15BM04, hand-wound – 15 ¾ ”’ – 7-day power reserve on a single barrel – 21,600 vph – hours, minutes, auxiliary seconds, power reserve indicator
Strap: blue alligator leather with turquoise stitching – steel or red gold ardillon buckle
References: NTS0054 steel
NTR0054 red gold
Availability: limited to 60 pieces
Price: CHF 19,500 steel
CHF 33,200 red gold