28 years after its debut, the Royal Oak Offshore from 1993 returns with three new models in 42mm cases made of steel, titanium, or rose gold. While retaining the essence of the original watch, they have undergone several interesting changes, including the installation of the latest in-house automatic chronograph movement with a flyback function and a new interchangeable bracelet system. To enjoy the view of the movement, the sapphire crystal case back is back, and the dial shows some design changes.
HISTORY
Presented at Baselworld 1993, the Royal Oak Offshore (ref. 25721ST) was as bold and provocative a proposition as the Royal Oak was in 1972. The ROO model was a larger, high-testosterone version of the Royal Oak, a colossal 42mm watch (huge sizing in 1993), astounding with textures and daring combinations of materials, earning the nickname "The Beast".
As a branch of the iconic Royal Oak model by Gérald Genta, the ROO paid homage to the legend with distinctive design features such as the embossed octagonal bezel and exposed screws, a guilloché "tapisserie" dial, an integrated bracelet, and an overall industrial design vibe. However, the ROO was bulkier and bolder than the RO, utilizing materials not typically associated with high-end watchmaking, such as a black rubber gasket between the case and bezel, rubber chronograph pushers, and a crown.
In honor of the 25th anniversary of the ROO, an exact replica of the iconic 1993 model was released, retaining the original case size, massive caseback, original "petite tapisserie" dial pattern, rubber gasket, pushers, and even the bracelet. Two differences from the original: the blade buckle was replaced with a sturdier folding butterfly clasp, and the modular chronograph caliber 3126/3840 from AP replaced the original JLC caliber 2226/2840 with a Dubois Depraz module.
SIMILARITIES AND EVOLUTIONS
Like the original, the new ROO models feature a 42mm diameter case with a height of 15.2mm. In addition to stainless steel, the ROO is also offered in titanium and 18-carat rose gold cases. The steel and rose gold models come with blue rubber pushers, gaskets, and a screw-down crown, while the titanium models are equipped with black rubber. The case and integrated bracelet boast a satin finish and sharply polished chamfers, crafted by hand.
Faithful to the original vertical three-component display of the 1993 Royal Oak Offshore, keen-eyed enthusiasts will notice that the position of the hour and small seconds counters has changed. The hour counter is now located at "12," and the small seconds at "6 o'clock"; the 30-minute counter retains its original position at "9 o'clock." Another subtle design change is that all three counters are now equidistant from the center of the dial, giving the watch greater symmetry and balance. The iconic "petite tapisserie" decoration remains on the dial, with the steel version, like the original, in blue.
The rose gold model also features a blue plaid background, but the counters are made of rose gold to match the case. The titanium version has a grey "petite tapisserie" and contrasting black counters. In all three models, the applied indices are elongated, made of gold, and coated with luminescent material, as are the Royal Oak hour and minute hands. As with the original, the gold-plated AP initials and the relocated "Audemars Piguet" signature are positioned at "3 o'clock" next to a circular date window with a magnifying glass.
CALIBER 4404
The true modernization lies in the introduction of the in-house caliber 4404, derived from the automatic integrated chronograph movement with a column wheel and flyback function, originally developed for the Code 11.59 model. Instead of the classic 3, 6, 9 counter layout in the Code 11.59 model, the movement was adapted to adhere to the vertical 6, 9, 12 counter layout in the ROO model. Although the brand has not provided pictures of the movement, the anti-glare sapphire case back allows you to admire the openworked 22-carat rose gold rotor and exquisite hand finishing, including Côtes de Genève, satin-finishing, and polished bevels. The movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of up to 70 hours.
INTERCHANGEABLE BRACELETS AND STRAPS
The new models feature a new interchangeable strap system, applicable for the first time to metal bracelets. Thanks to the quick fastening and removal system, the integrated metal bracelet can be replaced with a sporty rubber strap without any tools. All three 42mm models come with an additional rubber strap.
PRICE
The Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph models in steel and titanium are priced at 34,500 Swiss Francs (38,000$), while the rose gold model is 70,100 Swiss Francs (76,600$).
More information can be found at audemarspiguet.com.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE SELFWINDING CHRONOGRAPH 42MM
Case: 42mm diameter x 15.2mm height - stainless steel, titanium, or 18-carat rose gold, matte and polished finish - rubber gasket - pushers and crown with rubber coating - water resistance up to 100m
Dial: steel model with blue petite tapisserie, blue counters, and white gold indices - rose gold model with blue petite tapisserie, rose gold counters, and rose gold indices - titanium model with grey petite tapisserie, black counters, and white gold indices - indices, hour, and minute hands with luminescent coating - tachymetric bezel - date window with magnifier at "3 o'clock" - 12-hour counter at "12", 30-minute counter at "9", and small seconds hand at "6 o'clock".
Movement: AP caliber 4404, in-house - integrated automatic chronograph with flyback function, column wheel, and vertical clutch - 32mm - 381 components - 40 jewels - 28,800 vibrations/hour - 70-hour power reserve - hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph with flyback function, 30-minute and 12-hour counters
Bracelet: integrated metal bracelet with AP folding clasp and interchangeable system - additional rubber strap included
References: 26238ST.OO.2000ST.01 steel
26238TI.OO.2000TI.01 titanium
26238OR.OO.2000OR.01 rose gold
Price: CHF 34,500 steel, 38,000$
CHF 34,500 titanium, 38,000$
CHF 70,100 rose gold, 76,600$