The main novelty from Patek Philippe at this year's Watches and Wonders exhibition was presented in a 'denim' color.
Pale blue dials and denim straps certainly attracted the most attention. However, I would argue that another watch deserves more attention. Let's get acquainted with the Patek Philippe 5236P-010 perpetual calendar with a new salmon dial.
Of course, it's just a new color scheme for an already existing watch. But I wouldn't be surprised if many of you don't have the perpetual calendar at the top of your list. Let's change that today!
Patek Philippe 5236P 2021 Edition
This watch was first introduced at the Watches and Wonders 2021 exhibition as model 5236P-001 with a vertically brushed blue dial. The key point here is the phrase 'in-line'. Patek Philippe is famous for its annual and perpetual calendars, but this one differs from others. At its core is the caliber 31-260 REG QA, which debuted in 2011. It was adapted for model 5236P to display the day, date, and month in a single line above the hand. And this is no simple feat.
Creating the integrated display required 118 additional parts and three patents. This model uses four discs to display the day of the week, two digits of the date, and the month. These four discs are perfectly aligned. Only a small hourglass-shaped gap between the two date digits hints at the construction beneath the dial.
Usually, the micro-rotor is made of 22-carat gold, but in this case, Patek chose platinum to increase its mass. This enhances the power of its winding, which is necessary since the mainspring now has 20% more torque to power the complex new setup. Imagine the reaction of the caliber designer when someone suggested: 'Why don't we place the calendar in one line?' This, to put it mildly, requires some effort.
New Dial for Patek Philippe 5236P
So, all of this was the news for 2021. Moving on to the Watches and Wonders 2024 exhibition, Patek presents a new color variant of the model under the reference 5236P-010. The new version features an 'opaline rose-gilt dial', as Patek calls it. You might call it 'salmon'. It's a classic look, and I think it suits the watch perfectly. I feel the original blue dial was always too intricate with its vertical strokes and subtle vignette effect. The watches don't need a lot of embellishments, which the new Patek Philippe 5236 with opaline pink gold proves.
As always, the devil is in the details. The texture of this dial is exquisite. The opaline surface looks silky-smooth and has several subtle different areas. Additionally, the outer minute track is slightly recessed and features tiny concentric ridges. The subsidiary dial is also sunken and ribbed. All the dial apertures are stepped, beautifully framing the complications in an elegant manner.
I really like that Patek chose charcoal gray hands and indexes. They are made of white gold, but their dark color beautifully complements the salmon color. Black would have been too harsh. Another plus of the salmon dial is that it allows the moon phase indicator to stand out more expressively.
Wearing the Patek Philippe 5236P
Taking the new rose-gilded Patek Philippe 5236P in hand, you immediately recognize its quality. The watch looks quite simple, but the heft of the platinum case and the razor-sharp precision of execution leave no doubt about its sophistication.
Being critical (as I must be), I would say the watch could be a bit smaller. As a former vintage dealer, I'm used to complex Pateks with a more modest form factor. It's a relatively large watch: 41.3 mm in diameter, 48.6 mm lug-to-lug, and 11.07 mm thick. I must say, they wear well, but I think a slightly more compact case would emphasize their elegance. I'm sure this size was the result of careful market analysis, and the days of 36-mm complex Pateks are long gone. Nevertheless, it is certainly a stylistic choice, as the caliber in 38-mm annual calendars is no larger than this caliber 31-260 PS QL.
I particularly like the view of the caliber from inside. It is executed to Patek Philippe's usual standards, and its finger bridges are simply beautiful. If by chance you prefer a completely platinum case back, you can choose that too. However, you would have to be a historical purist to deny yourself this beautiful view.
Color Matters
Usually, we don't do practical articles about watches that just change attire. However, in this case, we feel it was justified. The Patek Philippe 5236P model proves that color can change the entire character of a watch. Let me explain.
The original blue model 5236P-001 looks very serious. It looks monochromatic, exuding a very cerebral, cold vibe. The salmon dial, on the other hand, appears much more lively and free. As a result, it seems much more lighthearted and joyful. Interestingly, this makes the watch as a whole less formal. Perhaps it's blasphemous, but I would happily - I repeat, happily - wear it on an olive-green NATO strap in vintage style.
Of course, all of this is subjective. Nevertheless, I believe the design objectively works better in salmon. The charcoal hands and indexes against the salmon shade provide greater clarity and legibility. Additionally, the subsidiary dial at the '6 o'clock' position appears optically smaller in this color scheme, which better balances the dial. Finally, the white-blue calendar, day/night, and leap year indicators stand out a bit less. Altogether, this makes it easy to direct the eye to what matters most. The watch looks simpler and clearer.
Final Thoughts
In my opinion, this was the most outstanding model from Patek this year. However, I readily admit that this is entirely based on personal taste rather than any real significance for the brand. Nonetheless, if I can shed light on classic and grand complications, I will. In a world dominated by status symbols adorned with gemstones, a truly traditional complex Patek is a breath of fresh air.
I also like that only two color options offer such diversity within one reference. The original blue 5236P-001 is a completely different beast than the new salmon 5236P-010. I'm sure, like me, you'll prefer one over the other. This perfectly demonstrates the value of color in design.
Speaking of cost, the price of the new Patek Philippe 5236P-010 is 120,000 Swiss Francs. It's an unlimited addition to the collection.
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