In April 2021, Rolex introduced the latest generation Explorer I watches with models Reference 124270 and 124273. While Rolex slightly increased the sizes of other models it produces, the Explorer I returned to its 'original form,' going back to a 36mm case size (from 39mm). Rolex also decided to complement the more traditional all-steel (Rolex Oystersteel, that is) Explorer with a two-tone steel and 18k yellow gold version, releasing the Reference 124273 Rolesor model, which stands as a more premium option alongside the new Explorer 124270.
Let me share a secret with you - although the Rolex Explorer I 36mm is quite a small sports watch (unless you have a smaller wrist), it makes an excellent dress watch with sleeves. Although the design of these watches began in the 1950s as mountaineering watches, they have since become much more synonymous with everyday luxury. In its fully matte steel case, it performs this task excellently. With the two-tone steel and 18k yellow gold, we have something entirely different: responsible and smart office watches that do not have the same flashy tone as the 36mm Datejust watches.
The Explorer I is not the thinnest watch, so its relatively small case size does not give the impression of being ultra-small when worn on the wrist. The case is water-resistant up to 100 meters, and a flat sapphire crystal sits above the dial. Inside the new generation 124270 and 124273 watches are Rolex's in-house automatic mechanical movements, caliber 3230. These are 'Superlative Chronometers,' meaning a precision variance of less than two seconds per day (very good), operating at 4 Hz with a 70-hour power reserve. Rolex uses this same movement in other three-hand watches without a date, such as the latest-generation Rolex Submariner No Date 124060. A somewhat new feature on the dial of the Explorer I is the placement of the Rolex crown in miniature under the 6 o'clock hour markers between 'Swiss Made' to signify the new generation of precise movements.
Over time, the dial of the Rolex Explorer I has grown on me, considering its focus on sportiness and legibility. Although it remains essentially a simple dial, the latest generation models feature excellent bright Chromalight luminescence and well-sized hands. There's something about this dial that makes it challenging for Rolex to find the exact correct size of the hands, which was something the brand struggled with a bit on the previous generation of Explorer I models. This one has quite good proportions in this department, as Rolex rarely makes the same mistake twice.
Even though the Explorer I watches look like watches from the past, Rolex will be the first to remind you that 'all the parts are new.' The Explorer I has been redesigned to resemble the classic size of the original but in a way that is fully modern and relevant. The Oyster-style bracelet with three links is comfortable and proportional to the case size. It tapers downward and is equipped with a latest-generation folding clasp with a small 5mm comfort extension.
The all-steel model 124270 may become the bulk driver for those who feel best with 36mm sports watches on their wrists. For those looking for an alternative to traditional dress or business watches, let me recommend the Rolex Explorer I 124273 as something for your list of options. I think it remains a luxurious option but more restrained than the Rolex Datejust. It is also a bit more active and youthful than, say, traditional dress watches that sit with a thin profile on the wrist, attached to a shiny black alligator leather strap.
The price for the Rolex Explorer I 36mm in a steel case, reference 124270, is $6,450 USD, while the two-tone Rolesor model in steel and 18k yellow gold is priced at $10,800 USD. Learn more on the Rolex website.