In an era of modest case sizes and elegant, vintage-style silhouettes, there's a unique satisfaction in watches that dare to be big, bold, and aggressively futuristic.
Alongside successful vintage-style models, Zenith continues to create some of the most extravagant chronographs on the current market under the Defy Extreme line. Although these models run counter to current trends among enthusiasts, they remain interesting both mechanically and stylistically. The new addition to the series - Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet - stands out particularly, combining one of the most complex and striking modern chronograph movements with a clear violet color reminiscent of the 'clear tech' style of the late '90s.
Case Design and Materials: Aggressive Lightness of Titanium
While the 45mm diameter and 15.4mm thick case of the Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet isn't fundamentally new, the brand's approach to finishing and materials gives this version a sinister and modern character. Instead of the usual polished stainless steel, the case is made of fully microblasted titanium. This significantly reduces the weight and bulk of the watch, yet it remains noticeable and expressive on the wrist. The triangular facets of the case and broad surfaces are more reminiscent of the dynamic folds of a modern Lamborghini's body than the facets of precious stones.
The signature two-tone bezel with a circular and octagonal overlay is retained and executed in matte grey and black tones. The wide, inclined crown with button protection is complemented by black elements for a more balanced appearance. The case back features a sapphire display, showcasing the skeletonized movement. Despite the complex architecture and bulky construction, the watch boasts high durability and water resistance up to 200 meters.
Dial: A Semi-Transparent Violet Spectacle
Unlike the dark case, the semi-skeletonized dial of the Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet is a true visual spectacle. The floating subdials, characteristic of the entire Defy Extreme series, are made of tinted transparent sapphire - a solution already used in the Defy Extreme Jungle model. However, it is the color here that plays a key role. The deep, rich violet hue immediately evokes associations with the late '90s aesthetic - transparent violet cases of Nintendo 64 game controllers and the first iMacs.
This color partially conceals the movement elements, providing good readability, but under direct lighting, reveals enough details for lovers of complex mechanisms. Bright yellow accents on the chronograph hands, the outer 1/100 second scale, and the power reserve indicator at the 12 o'clock position enhance the design, making it even more expressive. Despite its flamboyance, the dial remains legible thanks to clear scales, faceted indices, and broad, well-lumed skeletonized hands.
Movement El Primero 9004: Two Movements in One
At the heart of the Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet is the automatic chronograph El Primero 9004, which can be imagined as two independent movements in one case. To control the central seconds hand of the chronograph at a 1/100 second frequency, making a full rotation in one second, the movement operates at an incredible frequency of 360,000 vibrations per hour (100 beats per second).
Such ultra-fast movement requires specialized components: the chronograph is equipped with its own escapement, a separate mainspring barrel, and a unique winding system. Unlike standard movements, winding by the crown and rotor occurs in different directions - one direction winds the base movement, the other the chronograph. Meanwhile, the base movement provides a power reserve of up to 50 hours, and the chronograph runs for about 45 minutes on a full wind.
Though the construction is complex and somewhat impractical, it remains one of the most impressive examples of advanced watch mechanics, intriguing even those distant from horology. The movement is COSC-certified as a chronometer, ensuring high precision. Visually, it stands out with its ultra-modern structure of matte and polished bridges, fully exposing the gear wheels. On the case back, two independent escapements and violet-coated bridges are visible, and the signature star-shaped skeletonized rotor is also finished in violet with a combined finish.
Strap: Rich Violet Rubber for a Dynamic Look
For such expressive watches, the Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet requires an equally striking strap. Included are a black textile strap and an integrated titanium bracelet with H-shaped links, but the main focus is the integrated violet rubber strap with a folding clasp.
The embossed texture of the strap mirrors the bracelet pattern, adding visual complexity, and the rich color makes the watch noticeable from afar. Meanwhile, the strap remains soft and flexible, significantly enhancing comfort for prolonged wear, which is especially important for a large case.
Conclusion: Bold Design and Advanced Mechanics for the Select Few
Undoubtedly, a 45mm skeletonized chronograph in a transparent violet case is not for everyone, especially in a contemporary community dominated by more restrained and classic tastes. Nevertheless, the Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet is an exceptional example of bold horological art with a bright color palette and impressive technical content.
These watches are already available from authorized dealers. The recommended retail price is $20,100 USD at the time of publication.