New Steel Chronograph Gerald Charles Maestro GC3.0-A

There are understated watches, and then there are statement watches, timepieces with a rich character that rise above standard round cases. The Maestro chronograph from Gerald Charles is undoubtedly a contender in this category. The company Gerald Charles was founded in 2000 by Gérald Genta, one of the most famous and prolific watch designers of our time. His iconic 2006 Maestro watch was reintroduced this year in the Maestro Premier 2021 model - two high-end gold models that caught the attention of many enthusiasts. Following the success of the Maestro Premier 2021, Gerald Charles continues with steel models featuring date and chronograph options with a choice of emerald green or black dials. Combining Gérald Genta's flamboyant case design with a sports chronograph and water resistance - today we review the Maestro chronograph with a black dial.

HISTORY

Gérald Charles Genta (1931-2011) is the name behind some of the most iconic watches of the 20th century: AP Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus, Cartier Pasha, Universal Genève Polerouter, IWC Ingenieur - and these are just a few. After Bvlgari acquired his brand in 2000, Gérald Genta decided to create his own watch brand, which he named Gerald Charles, to distinguish it from the Bvlgari brand. In 2003, he sold it to investors from the Italian Ziviani family but remained as the chief designer.

After Gérald Genta's death in 2011, the brand went quiet but was revived in 2020 and entrusted to Federico Ziviani. In 2020, the anniversary Maestro Anniversary was introduced - a stainless steel watch based on the 2006 Gérald Genta model. The name of the watch, Maestro, is how many people addressed Gérald Genta during his lifetime.

This year, Gerald Charles released two new versions of the Maestro model - with time and date and chronograph, presented in luxurious 18-carat rose gold cases with vibrant green and black dials (Maestro Premier 2021). Following the popular Premier 2021 Edition, which sold out faster than expected, Gerald Charles offers the Maestro in steel cases. Although they are not limited editions, their production will be limited. And before giving anyone hope, the last time I checked the site, the Maestro 3.0 chronograph was temporarily out of stock, but there is a waiting list.

MAESTRO GC3.0-A CHRONOGRAPH

Describing the dynamic, almost playful architecture of the case is like describing a work of baroque architecture. The more dramatic and sensual baroque architecture was the Catholic Church's response to the unadorned Protestant churches. With its deceptive trompe-l'oeil effects, predominance of oval forms, and curved architecture creating an impression of movement, baroque architecture was meant to evoke awe and admiration. It is no wonder that the complex design of the Maestro watch case is said to be inspired by the architecture of the Roman Baroque architect Francesco Borromini.

The curves and monumental, stepped bezel make the case appear massive. It is not: the case thickness is 11.50 mm, and considering the chronograph complication, it is quite thin. The enigmatic 'smile' (between 5 and 7 o'clock) is a true Gérald Genta touch, inspired by Borromini's elaborate architecture. The case diameter is 39 mm, height - 41.50 mm, and its stainless steel surfaces are brightly polished to catch the light. Even the chronograph pushers have an irregular shape, echoing the contours of the side surface of the case and the shape of the rounded lugs.

Another surprising aspect of this meticulously designed chronograph is its impressive 100-meter water resistance. The original 2006 model was waterproof to just 30 meters. Years of research and development were required to create a thin case with an irregularly shaped crystal and make it waterproof. Furthermore, the Maestro watch was tested in real underwater conditions. Italian Olympic swimming champion Luca Dotto took the Maestro for a dive in a pool 42.15 m deep in Padua (the world's deepest indoor pool). Dotto's dive demonstrated that the Maestro watch is fully capable of accompanying you in swimming or amateur-level freediving. Besides the screw-down crown and calibrated sapphire glass, the chronograph has a special gasket first seen on the Master Premier Edition 2021. This gasket seals the case and irregularly shaped glass, ensuring the watch's safety underwater.

ELEGANT BLACK DIAL

The Maestro chronograph dial is available in black or emerald green and features a sunburst finish that plays with light, creating constantly changing reflections - a theme successfully used by architects and artists of the baroque era. True to the curved architecture of the case, there are no straight angles or square shapes on the dial, and the peripheral minute/second track is adapted to the wavy architecture of the case. The indices are oval, and the hour, minute, and chronograph hands are rounded; all hands, except the central seconds hand, are treated with luminescent material. The three sub-dials at the '3', '6', and '9 o'clock' positions have a circular frame, snail track outer ring, and distinct white markings. The sharp contrast between the black dial and white markings is particularly striking and aligns with the watch's sporty characteristics. The black strap is made of vulcanized rubber, chosen for its superior water resistance, durability, and comfort, and is adorned with Clous de Paris pyramid embossing.

VAUCHER AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH

The base movement is made by Vaucher, a prestigious Swiss manufacturer of high-end mechanical movements, based in Fleurier, and custom made for Gerald Charles. The skeletonized bidirectional rotor supplies two barrels with 50 hours of power reserve. The thin movement, just 6.07 mm thick, uses twin barrels for a more stable supply of energy to the regulator. The bidirectional rotor operates on ceramic ball bearings, and the balance is of the variable-inertia type, meaning it can be adjusted using weights located on the spokes of the balance wheel. The matte steel case back features anti-reflective sapphire glass, allowing one to admire the mechanics and standard Fleurier hand finish, such as the Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges.

AVAILABILITY AND PRICE

The Maestro 3.0 Chronograph (ref. GC3.0-A-00) is now part of Gerald Charles' ongoing collection. Although these watches are not limited, their annual release will be limited - the company has not specified the exact number. The chronograph is already available on the brand's website. As I mentioned, it is temporarily out of stock, but you can leave a 10% deposit and join the waiting list. The retail price is 18,900 euros.

For more information, visit geraldcharles.com.