After numerous new models in the Speedmaster collection this year (including the brand-new Moonwatch), Omega is once again adding a new version to the lineup. A new Speedmaster…? Yes, but this model is truly special as it is equipped with a multitude of unprecedented features and revives a name dear to the brand. So, let's get straight to the point: here is the new Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope collection, featuring a new design, a new size, a new movement, the return of the Chronoscope name, and a dial that harkens back to the brand's vintage watches… Let's take a closer look.
RETURN OF THE CHRONOSCOPE NAME
The name Chronoscope is not new to Omega. It was used previously in the mid-2000s in the context of the De Ville collection for chronograph watches… In fact, the history goes much deeper, as the first watches bearing the Chronoscope name were released by Louis Brandt (the company that would become Omega) in 1885 – you can see these pocket watches below. But why Chronoscope? For that, we need to look back at the early days of watchmaking.
The term chronograph, as used by most watchmakers today, could very well be a misnomer. Indeed, the 'graph' in the name comes from the ancient Greek gráphō, which translates to 'write' in English. If we look at watchmaking history, this name was first given to an invention by Nicolas Rieussec, who developed one of the first devices to record elapsed time. Although it is widely known that the first time-recording device was created by Louis Moinet, Rieussec's invention was notably different from classic watches as it consisted of a rotating dial moving under a fixed hand equipped with an ink reservoir.
Thus, Nicolas Rieussec's chronograph literally recorded elapsed time. Hence the name chronograph. However, in modern watchmaking, no device 'records' time anymore, and modern chronograph watches display time on a dial using hands… And in ancient Greek, this would be called skopos, not graph. Indeed, the word skopos can be translated as 'to observe'. According to Omega, this means 'an instrument used for the accurate determination of the duration of an event.'
Today, Omega revives the Chronoscope name, however, for a rather special edition of its star chronograph watches, in the new Speedmaster Chronoscope collection.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CHRONOSCOPE CHRONOGRAPH
What we see in the new Speedmaster Chronoscope model is evidently a new iteration of the Speedy watches. As such, the overall design is familiar, especially concerning the case. This means an external bezel with a scale (note that the Speedy model was the first watch with such a feature in 1957), an asymmetrical case design with twisted lugs, and a box-shaped relief glass.
However, there are several new features in this chronoscope. The first is the size of the watch. While classic Moonwatch models measure 42 mm, and Automatic/Racing/DSOTM versions measure 44.25 mm, the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope introduces a new 'medium size' with a 43 mm case. The case shape is nothing new, and the pushers/crown and case straps will seem familiar to Speedy enthusiasts. As with the recently updated Moonwatch, Omega has worked on the proportions. This means that despite a rather large diameter, the lug-to-lug length is 48 mm, and since the watch is equipped with a new manual-winding movement, it is also relatively thin - 12.8 mm - in fact, thinner than the Moonwatch. On the wrist, the watch feels slightly smaller than expected (especially on the bracelet, but more on that later).
The case, at least for 6 of the 7 editions, is made of stainless steel and features a classic combination of matte surface and polished accents on the sides. The raised fixed bezel is equipped with an anodized aluminum insert housing the first of the 4 scales of these Chronoscope watches - the classic tachymeter. The case has the typical 'sapphire sandwich' architecture and a water resistance of 50 meters (like most Speedmaster watches).
The most notable element of the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope chronograph is its dial, whose design and architecture define the name of the watches. As mentioned earlier, its goal is 'to accurately determine the duration of an event,' and for this, it can tell you how fast you are going based on how far you have traveled, as well as how far you are from something visible and audible, or the frequency of your heartbeat. As you might have guessed, the chronoscope is equipped with three classic chronograph scales - tachymeter, telemeter, and pulsometer.
The tachymeter is divided into two scales. The first is a classic one on the bezel for measuring speed from 500 to 60 units (km/h, mph…). Then comes a secondary two-level scale located in the center of the dial, allowing speed measurement from 60 to 20 units (thus, up to 3 minutes of travel). The other two scales, the telemeter and the pulsometer, are classically applied on the inner part of the dial, referring to Omega's old chronograph watches of the 1930s/1940s.
The dial is also entirely unique for this Speedmaster Chronoscope model and does not repeat previous models in this series. It is a bi-compax layout, with a small seconds hand at the '9 o'clock' position and a classic Omega coaxial counter at the '3 o'clock' position, featuring hour and minute indicators. Indeed, there is no date on these watches. The Chronoscope collection features a brand-new stepped-profile dial. The hour-ring is adorned with thin and beautifully crafted applied Arabic numerals placed over a concentric pattern. The hands are also new for this watch, polished and leaf-shaped.
Regarding the steel models, there are 3 different dials offered. The first is a blue dial with silver sub-dials, silver-colored hands and indices, and a matching bezel. The second is a silver dial with tone-on-tone sub-dials, blue accents on the hands and indices, and a blue bezel. And finally, the 'Panda' edition with a silver dial, black sub-dials, and a black bezel.
NEW MOVEMENT, CALIBER 9908
Inside the Speedmaster Chronoscope case is a new movement, or rather, a new iteration of Omega's automatic chronograph Master Chronometer. Based on caliber 9900, the new 9908 movement is a manual-winding version, featuring a new ¾ plate. However, it retains the same architecture with a column wheel and vertical clutch. Additionally, the dual-barrel layout is maintained, used not so much to increase power reserve but to provide stable torque. The watch beats at a frequency of 4 Hz and has a comfortable power reserve of 60 hours.
Like all modern Omega movements, the new caliber 9908 is equipped with a coaxial escapement, certified as a master chronometer, and boasts impressive anti-magnetic properties. Through the case back, a view of the large bridge decorated with classic arabesque stripes emanating from the center of the balance wheel is revealed. The finishing is typical of Omega's products: clean and pleasing to the eye.
STEEL BRACELET OR LEATHER STRAP
As mentioned, the new Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope collection offers 6 models in stainless steel. Each of the 3 dials is available either on a leather strap with a pin buckle or on a stainless steel bracelet. The bracelet design is identical to the new Moonwatch design, including a fine clasp with a striped pattern. The bracelet measures 21 mm at the lugs and tapers to 16 mm at the clasp. In line with the concept presented in the new Moonwatch, the chronoscope is equipped with sapphire glass and features polished middle links.
New for this model, the clasp is equipped with a micro-adjustment with a push-and-slide mechanism. It allows the clasp to be adjusted by a few millimeters (about 5 mm) for hot summer days. Furthermore, like the new Moonwatch, Omega has created short end links that drop very close to the case and hug the wrist. You will be surprised, but models on the bracelet actually wear smaller than their leather strap counterparts…
BRONZE-GOLD OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CHRONOSCOPE WATCHES
In addition to the steel models, as in the recently introduced Seamaster 300 collection, the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope collection includes an additional watch made from the brand's latest patented alloy - bronze gold. Certified as a 9k gold alloy, it consists of 50% copper, 37.5% gold, silver for color, and in smaller proportions, gallium (a very rare metal that melts at 30 degrees…) and palladium.
The idea behind this alloy is to combine the cool color of bronze without oxidation and the precious feel of gold. This version, available only on a leather strap, is also equipped with a solid bronze dial with opaline silver sub-dials, the dark brown color of which is achieved through an oxidation process. Additionally, this version features a ceramic bezel insert with a vintage-colored enamel-filled tachymetric scale. The leaf-shaped hands and Arabic numerals are coated with a bronze-gold PVD finish. The brown leather strap is secured with a polished and sandblasted Bronze-Gold clasp. All other characteristics are identical to the steel models, including the movement.
AVAILABILITY AND PRICE
The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope collection, except for the Bronze-Gold model, is now available in boutiques and retail stores. Prices are 8,300 Swiss francs on a leather strap and 8,600 Swiss francs on a steel bracelet. The Bronze-Gold model is priced at 14,000 Swiss francs.
More detailed information can be found on omegawatches.com.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CHRONOSCOPE CHRONOGRAPH
Case: 43 mm diameter x 12.8 mm height – 48 mm lug-to-lug – stainless steel case, matte and polished – fixed steel bezel with aluminum insert, tachymetric scale – sapphire crystals front and back – water resistance 50 m
Dial: stepped dial with applied Arabic numerals, concentric pattern on the hour ring, recessed counters with concentric pattern, polished leaf hands, 3 different scales (tachymeter, telemeter, pulsometer).
Dial available in blue with silver sub-dials, silver with blue accents, silver 'panda' with black sub-dials
Movement: Omega Calibre 9908, in-house – master chronometer certified – manual winding chronograph with column wheel and vertical clutch – 44 jewels – 28,800 vibrations/hour – 60-hour power reserve – coaxial escapement – magnetic resistance 15,000 gauss – hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph with coaxial hours and minutes counter, no date
Bracelet: Offered on a steel bracelet, 21 mm, matte and polished (same design as new Moonwatch) – folding clasp with micro-adjustment.
Also available on leather straps with steel clasp.
Models: 6 models in a steel case, each of the three dials offered either on a steel bracelet or leather strap
Availability: Now in boutiques and retail stores
Price: CHF 8,300~$9000 steel on leather strap
8,600 Swiss francs~$9400 in steel
Also available a Bronze-Gold version (9-carat gold) with a brown ceramic bezel, vintage-colored enamel-filled, solid bronze dial with a brown tint achieved through oxidation, on a leather strap with a bronze-gold clasp – otherwise all characteristics identical. Price 14,000 Swiss francs~$15200