“It's just a new dial color...”, you might initially think when looking at these new watches if you're not a Speedmaster fan.
In some ways, I can't blame you, as that's exactly what it is: a new white dial for the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional. And that could be the end of the story. But since you're here, it means you have a certain interest in watches, and there's a chance the iconic Moonwatch won't leave you indifferent. So, it's time to talk about the new Speedmaster Moonwatch White dial (also known as the Speedy Albino), because, as I've often said, a new dial color can dramatically change a watch.
Context...
A Speedmaster with a white dial isn't entirely new. If you've browsed through the Moonwatch Only reference guide or have sufficient knowledge of older Speedmaster versions, you've likely encountered more than one “albino” Speedy. Yet what we see here is indeed new... Enough to cause a stir in the Speedmaster fan community. The latest Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a white dial is the first of its kind to become part of the permanent collection, not limited by quantity or release.
Moreover, it is currently the only steel Moonwatch (excluding limited and special editions) not equipped with a black dial. Gold versions are offered with silver, matte black, green, or champagne panda dials. When it comes to stainless steel watches (the classic model), your choice has been limited to one color: black. Not anymore.
The buzz around these white-dial Speedmaster Moonwatch watches is the result of a well-thought-out Omega strategy, subtly hinted at during an event in November 2023. Daniel Craig, whom we're used to seeing in the Seamaster as James Bond, was spotted wearing an unprecedented version of the classic Moonwatch with a light dial. And no, it wasn't the Canopus Gold Moonwatch with a silver dial (the polished middle links and visible red strokes indicated it was likely steel). The existence of these watches was confirmed in March this year when they were officially presented.
So, what are these watches? In the past, there was no Speedmaster with a white dial. Fully white-dialed Speedmaster Moonwatch watches aren't that rare. Look closely, and you won't find anything similar, at least in the standard collection. There were a few examples of “panda” Speedies, like the one in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics Collection, but it was limited to 2,020 pieces. There were several special, commemorative, regional, or limited releases with white dials in the past, but nothing permanently available. Aside from the chocolate Moonwatch version (circa 2007-2012), steel models have always been in a sea of black. Even in the current collection, there are only four steel examples, all black.
However, Speedmaster watches with white dials existed as special or limited editions. And some of them are quite sought after. The most significant Speedmaster models with white dials are undoubtedly the Alaska Project models - original models from the late 1960s or the 2008 reissue, limited to 1,970 pieces. This is undoubtedly the most frequently mentioned model when it comes to white-dialed Speedys. One can also mention the Albino Speedmaster, the Speedmaster 40th Anniversary, released for the Italian market under number 3593.20, dated 1997, and limited to 500 pieces. This is the “last (non-panda) Speedmaster Professional model with a white dial without a comic character, lunar watch, or special references” released by Omega, although it is more of an off-white than pure white.
Finally, in the context of white watches, we must mention the collectible (and rather overpriced in the pre-owned market) model 311.32.42.30.04.003, also known as the Speedmaster Moonwatch 2015 Apollo 13 Silver Snoopy Award. Classic lunar watches in essence, released as a limited series of 1,970 pieces, featured a fully white dial with darkened markers and hands, a dial with several elements referring to the Apollo 13 rescue mission, and a luminous Snoopy in one of the subdials (and a silver Snoopy engraved on the case back). As for white-dialed Speedmaster models (non-panda), that's all. Until the beginning of this year.
The New White Dial Speedmaster Moonwatch
I fully understand that for many watch enthusiasts not particularly passionate about the Speedmaster, this new dial will be minor news. And I'm not even mentioning those who aren't watch fans, who couldn't care less. However, the Speedmaster enthusiast community is large, loyal, and quite critical when it comes to updating such an iconic model. The mere fact of a new dial color appearing in a steel Moonwatch case can cause a real earthquake (okay, I'm intentionally exaggerating...). This might explain why the new white dial is only available in watches with a sapphire sandwich construction, not in the historical Hesalite version.
Trust me when I say that many Speedy fans have been waiting for a white-dialed Speedmaster that could be purchased at will, without the need to rush to an AD to get a limited-series model (or pay a serious premium on the pre-owned market). The only problem is that Omega had to do everything right. Did they succeed? Let me share my impressions.
In short, it's about a new dial. Of course, it doesn't just come down to the color of the main plate, but that's what we're looking at now. Otherwise, the watches are completely identical to the black-dial “sapphire sandwich” version, which was completely updated in 2021. The first important point: there will be no white dial in the Hesalite model with a closed case back and fully matte bracelet.
This timeless classic remains true to the original black dial, which has been the hallmark of the watch since its release in 1957. Want white? You'll get a watch with box-shaped sapphire crystal, an open case back revealing the movement, and polished middle bracelet links (straps are also available). And I think it's a wise choice to respect the original Hesalite model.
Let's talk about what really matters - the new white dial. The dial of these Albino Speedmaster watches is quite different from anything we've seen before in the standard collection. Let's get back to basics. Since 2021, regular Moonwatches have been equipped with a stepped black dial made of embossed brass with a matte, fine-grained black finish on top.
The hour markers are painted, flat, luminescent, and whitish. The hands are also traditional for the Professional models, meaning matte white (painted) with a thin strip of Super-LumiNova. Finally, all the white prints, including the scales in the slightly recessed and sunken sub-dials, are white. On the sapphire case, there's an applied Ω logo at the “12 o'clock” position (in the Hesalite version it's printed).
In this regard, the new white dial offered by Omega is a completely different beast. Although it retains the embossed stepped profile of the black version (the matte silver-white Canopus version doesn’t), the brass base has been coated with white lacquer. The result is a semi-glossy surface with depth and a milky effect - in this respect, it is very different from the matte white dials of the Snoopy, Albino, and Alaska Project models. It doesn't shine or reflect, but its feel is entirely different from the instrumental feel of the black version.
Other differences are noticeable, such as the applied and semi-floating hour markers. Thanks to the step on the dial, only their outer parts touch the dial, while the middle part hovers above it. Although these indices retain the classic Speedy codes, including the stick with two dots at the “12 o'clock” position, they are polished, angled, darkened with PVD coating, and filled with a thin strip of white Super-LumiNova. And, as with all Speedies with applied markers, these are elongated markers, not short ones like in the black versions. All the hands underwent the same treatment: polished surface, black PVD color, and white SLN. Overall, the combination of white and black maintains the characteristic Speedmaster contrast.
There are things to say about the scales, tracks, and logos. Although they are mostly black (that's obvious), this edition adds two red details, namely the Speedmaster logo and the tip of the second hand. Some will like it (I do), some won't. But the important thing is that thanks to the thick lacquer coating of the dial with a clear top layer, all the prints kind of float above the dial. And in real life, it’s pretty cool and adds depth to the dial.
Technical Specifications and Bracelet/Strap
Otherwise, no surprises. The watch has the same specifications as its black-dial counterpart. The classic Professional case is made of matte and polished steel, with signature twisted “lyre” lugs and an asymmetrical design with crown and pusher protection. Dimensions remain the same: 42 mm in diameter, 13.2 mm in height, and 47.5 mm in length. As mentioned, this version is only available with box-shaped sapphire crystal and its counterpart on the case back, and the bezel with DON remains black and still made of anodized aluminum (no ceramics here). Under the hood is the new caliber 3861, a manually wound chronograph movement certified as a Master Chronometer, highly resistant to magnetic fields, with a co-axial escapement.
Omega offers the Speedmaster Moonwatch with a white dial in three strap options. The first is the classic retro stainless steel bracelet with a 20/15 mm diameter and polished middle links (a hallmark of the sapphire sandwich), as well as a thin and quite compact ribbed folding clasp, now equipped with an on-the-fly micro-adjustment system. The price of this steel edition is 8,900 euros or 7,700 Swiss francs. Additionally, a black racing strap made of perforated leather with white stitching, also perforated on the underside and with red stitching (in the same style as the CK2998 Pulsometer model), is available.
Also available is a black rubber strap (identical to the Moonshine version) with a relief pattern of the lunar surface inside. Both options close with a folding clasp and cost 8,500 euros or 7,400 Swiss francs. In all cases, the price difference with the black dial and sapphire glass version is 100 euros... truly insignificant, considering that the white lacquered dial and applied markers have a certain cost.
Thoughts and Impressions
I am completely subjective... I've always been a big fan of the Speedmaster, not only for what they mean as a collection but also for their almost utilitarian and timeless design. This version with a white dial has partially lost the tool feel that has long been inherent in black-dial models, and yet, in my opinion, it looks fantastic. It's a completely different watch, and it wears differently.
First, the white glossy dial has more depth and a less instrumental look, meaning the Speedmaster seems more luxurious. Secondly, typical of all watches with bright dials, this Albino Speedy model appears larger on the wrist than the black model. They wear the same, just appear a bit bigger.
Is it worth buying such a watch? I've often said that if you want to become part of the Speedmaster community, it's best and safest to start with the black model with a steel dial. But I also know some people who have never been thrilled with this model, and the new white model might change some views. If you already have a black watch, then I think the white one will make an excellent addition to your collection and won't duplicate the classic black. They may both be Speedies, but they are quite different.
Comparing the new steel Speedmaster with a white dial to another light-dial collection model, the gold Canopus, you can notice some differences. The latter has a matte silver-white dial with a sunburst finish and lacks the stepped profile. Additionally, all the prints on it are black, and the hands/markers are silver. Finally, the bracelet is fully matte. My colleagues and I have completely different opinions when it comes to comparing the steel/white Speedmaster and the Canopus version.
What he likes about the Canopus model is the muted, monochromatic effect of the tone-on-tone markers/hands and the matte textures present on both the dial and the bracelet. For me, it's the opposite. I feel that the Canopus version lacks contrast and expressiveness, which is why I prefer this new Speedmaster model with a steel white dial, as it is complemented by red accents, a dial full of depth, and polished middle bracelet links… De gustibus et coloribus non est disputandum, or in matters of taste and color, there can be no disputes. Except the prices vary significantly. To each their own.
More detailed information at omegawatches.com.