After Omega introduced several Speedmasters not intended for lunar enthusiasts (such as the Speedmaster Super Racing with Spirate technology and the updated Speedmaster Apollo 8), on March 6, 2024, the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with a white dial finally appeared.
I use the word "finally" because Omega already showcased them in October 2023 on the wrist of former 007 actor Daniel Craig during a red carpet event in New York.
Omega sent me the new white Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch to wear for several weeks, which I did. I was curious to see if they would meet my expectations. Would they impress me as much as when I first saw them in person?
White Moonwatch
The arrival of the white Moonwatch took over my Instagram feed for several days, if not weeks. Moonwatch fans finally felt excitement again! I've been buying (or collecting) Speedmasters since 1999, and Omega's decision to halt (limited edition) releases in 2020 also paused my spending on Speedmasters. Of course, when Omega announced the release of the current Moonwatch in 2021, I had to acquire it. But after that, I didn't purchase any Speedmasters. I wouldn't say those three years were meaningless for me, but they made me wonder when we would see a cool Moonwatch variation again. And I'm not talking about the Swatch MoonSwatch, which came out in 2022. Although I bought a few, they didn't satisfy my craving for new Speedmasters.
Three Years Without Speedmasters
This three-year break made me spend my hard-earned money on watches from other brands, including Rolex and Breguet, as well as half a dozen watches from smaller brands. A distraction! Luckily, Omega released a new Moonwatch variation, which I will have to purchase sooner rather than later.
Looking at my Speedmaster collection, I own only one model with a white dial. It's the limited edition 2015 Omega Speedmaster Professional Silver Snoopy Award 45th Anniversary. In my opinion, it's the most interesting Snoopy edition honoring Apollo 13, released in a limited run of 1,970 pieces. For some of you, this is still a big number, but understand that it's less than a day's production for Omega. You must always evaluate the quantity of limited edition watches in perspective. For example, if 1,970 pieces is a lot for A. Lange & Söhne, it's nothing for Seiko. I assume the third Snoopy edition, the 50th-anniversary model debuting in 2020, was produced in a much larger run than the 1,970 pieces of its predecessor. However, Omega gives us no information about these numbers, so let's not speculate.
Nothing in Common with Previous White Dial Speedmasters
Nevertheless, the 2015 Snoopy is my only Speedmaster with a white dial. Upon the release of the new white Moonwatch, there were also some discontinued Speedmasters, like the Alaska Project from 2008 and the 1997 Albino released on the Italian market (all now sold out). While the Albino were at best off-white, the Alaska Project 2008 and the limited edition Snoopy 2015 were very white - I would say "stark white." The white dial of the new Speedmaster Moonwatch differs significantly from those earlier white dial Speedmasters.
Lacquered Dial
The new white Moonwatch dial is lacquered, giving it a slight sheen but not too much. It is as far from a glossy dial as it is from the matte white dials of the Speedmaster Alaska Project and Snoopy 2015. The dial is attractive as it shows depth thanks to the applied hour markers (black with mirror polishing) and recessed sub-dials with circular graining. Judging by the comments on our announcements of the white Moonwatch, the use of red on the dial isn't to everyone's liking, but in real life, it makes the dial a bit more vibrant.
White Moonwatch Received a Warm Welcome
Interestingly, these watches are "only" different in the dial (and tube) from the regular black-dialed Moonwatch, but it makes a huge difference. Suddenly, they attracted an audience that was never interested in Speedmasters. When I wore these white-dialed Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch during the Watches and Wonders 2024 exhibition and for a week after, people frequently noticed them. This wasn't just from those in the trade (Watches and Wonders), but also from people with a slight interest in watches. I was at dinner with a friend who wore a classic Moonwatch 3570.50 with a black dial but wasn't interested in the watch itself or its association with the moon. Even she said that the white-dialed Speedmaster was a beautiful watch, not knowing it was the latest model.
The most interesting comments came from members of our WatchTested team when I wore the watch on my wrist at the office. Those who I initially didn't convince quickly changed their minds and cautiously admitted that they liked the watch.
I Have a Weakness for White Dials
I've always liked white dials, which explains my (previous) ownership of Panerai Luminor Marina with a white dial, Grand Seiko GMT with a white dial, and two Royal Oaks with white dials (one a chronograph), not to mention the Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award 45th Anniversary edition. I was even a bit upset when I saw that the third and last Silver Snoopy Award model has a silver dial instead of white.
According to the initial Omega press release, the white dial was inspired by the white suits of the Apollo astronauts, and the red elements by the red stripes on the Apollo 13 suits in 1970 to emphasize the commander's rank. For your information, I think they just look good, but I understand that such changes or additions to watches must have some story behind them.
Same, Same, but Different (Appeal)
Except for the dial and hands, the new Speedmaster Professional ref. 310.30.42.50.04.001 on a stainless steel bracelet has the same technical specifications as its black dial/sapphire crystal Moonwatch counterpart (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002). I don't have such a watch in my collection, but we've featured the new white Moonwatch and the black dial Hesalite version (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.001) side by side in several shots. They are practically the same watch, but the white dial of this model gives the watch a completely different aesthetic. It's as if it's a completely different watch.
Therefore, I also think the white version complements the black one rather than replaces it. The white Moonwatch is also different from the classic Moonwatch. As I wrote earlier, the new white dial version is likely to attract a new audience that isn't as passionate about the Moonwatch's history and isn't as strict about the watch's heritage. In comments on our articles and on social media, I noticed several people who didn't have a Moonwatch before bought this new model. Perhaps they weren't as interested in the "boring" black Moonwatch. Besides the new target audience, I think some Speedmaster collectors will also be more than interested in acquiring this model.
Did the White Dial Speedmaster Moonwatch Get the Silver Snoopy Award?
I wore the new professional Speedmaster Moonwatch with a white dial for two consecutive weeks, and the excitement didn't fade. Someone asked me which I liked more - this model or the silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary, and I replied that the new white dial Moonwatch excites me more. Perhaps this is unfair, as I've had the "Snoopy" for a long time, but I love simple things. Sometimes just changing the dial (and tube) is enough to revive my enthusiasm for an existing model.
If I had to choose today between the white dial Moonwatch and the Snoopy 50th Anniversary edition, I would choose the white Moonwatch. However, much of the enjoyment of the silver Snoopy is the automaton on the case back, so this version is a must-have for collectors.
"Black and White, Dancing Together"
Would I prefer the white Moonwatch to the classic black dial Moonwatch? I'm too captivated by the Speedmaster's history and perhaps too much of a purist to choose the white dial model as the "only" Speedmaster. But I think it's a great addition to the collection that could have appeared much earlier. I prefer the Moonwatch's dial color to some of the Speedmaster collections Omega adds on the side. I understand there is a market for them, but I prefer when things aren't too complicated. Sometimes just a different dial color is enough, especially when the "standard" version of the watch is already iconic.
Caution When Adding New Versions
A good example might be the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon model, which became a great addition to the Speedmaster collection in 2013. However, shortly after, Omega flooded the catalog with five or six different versions. The classic stainless steel Moonwatch is very difficult to "touch." Omega can experiment with gold or platinum Moonwatches, but the classic watch deserves careful handling. And I think this is what the brand did with the new white version.
Price Difference Explained
Unfortunately, all good things come to an end, even my trial period with the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with a white dial. After a few weeks, I had to return them, resulting in me taking out the 2015 Snoopy Silver Award more frequently from the safe to wear. But it's not the same. The new bracelet (with micro-adjustable clasp), caliber 3861, and case shape are all improvements made later. Consequently, I must acquire these new white dial Moonwatch. But, like many of you, I need to save a bit to do it! The retail price of these Moonwatch on a bracelet is 7,700 Swiss francs / 9,000 euros, which is about 100 euros more than the black version with sapphire glass (and bracelet).
Gregory Kissling, Omega's Vice President of Product, told us that producing these white lacquered dials is very challenging, with all the details (such as the finish of the sub-dials) remaining visible. This also explains the price difference from the regular black Moonwatch model with sapphire glass.
Speedmaster Moonwatch Portfolio Almost Perfect
For those just getting acquainted with Speedmaster watches, there's now an even more difficult task. Instead of just choosing between Hesalite and sapphire glass, they can now think about the dial color. Fortunately, the white Moonwatch is available only with sapphire glass, which makes the decision easier.
The Omega Moonwatch lineup now consists of three standard stainless steel options, the hard-to-find Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary model, Moonshine, Sedna, and Canopus Gold versions, a platinum version with caliber 321, and the modern version of 105.003 (Ed White/Gene Cernan) with caliber 321. With all this, I would say the portfolio is almost perfect.
In my opinion (perhaps unsurprisingly), the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a white dial is the best release of 2024 in the affordable price segment. Yes, I understand that "affordable" is subjective, but these are the only watches under 10,000 euros that have thrilled me in the early months of 2024.
Let us know what you think about the new Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with a white dial. Do you perhaps already have yours?