The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921, a unique cushion-shaped wristwatch with a diagonal dial, celebrates its centenary in 2021. One of our favorite models at WatchTested, the Historiques American 1921, has a magnificent history and has not lost any interest over the past 100 years. At the latest Watches & Wonders exhibition, three new versions of the American 1921 were presented: two in 18-karat white gold and a third in platinum. Today, we will explore the 40 mm white gold model and discover its undeniable and timeless Art Deco appeal.
The Exciting 1920s
After World War I, a decade of optimism and excess began, known as the Roaring Twenties. Characterized by a decade of emancipation with flappers, dancing the Charleston, and the booming jazz music, it also marked the arrival of Art Deco, a style that adorned everything from skyscrapers to furniture, and from jewelry to watches. Sleek curves, geometric shapes, and streamlined forms were the hallmarks of the Art Deco style, which infused the unconventional case shapes of many Vacheron watches from the early 1920s, including the Historiques American 1921. Another consequence of the war was the popularization of wristwatches. Proving their value and practicality on the battlefield, wristwatches gradually replaced pocket watches and ceased to be considered a feminine trinket. The rapidly developing post-war American economy stimulated a consumer culture eager to indulge in the latest consumer goods. This included the emergence of affordable cars like the Ford Model T. The unusual diagonal display of the American 1921 proved particularly useful for drivers, who could check the time without taking their hands off the steering wheel.
As the name suggests, the American 1921 was originally produced for the North American market and manufactured in a very limited quantity. In short, the American model 1921 - as we know it today with the crown in the upper right-hand corner - had a predecessor. In fact, as Tom Mulraney writes: "The Historiques American 1921 model is actually not based on a single Vacheron Constantin watch from the 1920s, but on a fusion of two different models." Its predecessor was a 1919 wristwatch (reference 11032) with a cushion-shaped case, a crown at the "1 o'clock" position, and a diagonal display. The 1919 model's dial, equipped with a miniature pocket watch movement, was rotated so that the number 12 aligned diagonally with the crown and the small seconds subdial located between 5 and 7 o'clock. Very large Arabic numerals and broad hands were treated with luminescent material. If worn on the right wrist, American motorists could keep track of time without taking their hands off the wheel, making them the ideal driver's watch and a highly sought-after men's accessory.
If you want to see what the original watch looked like before it was modernized to become one of the brand's most delightful collections in the Historiques family, don't miss Frank's chronicle of how the owner of an original vintage Vacheron Constantin American contacted him in 2010.
In 1921, Vacheron Constantin made several changes to the watch and christened it the American 1921. Known as number 11677, these watches changed the crown position from the top right corner to the left and replaced the large numerals with more elegant black Breguet-style numerals and matching Breguet hands with hollow moon-shaped tips.
American 1921 Entered the Historic Collection
The American 1921 belongs to the renowned Vacheron Constantin Historiques family, sharing the spotlight with other golden vintage models such as the Cornes de Vache 1955, Triple Calendrier 1942, and Ultra-Fine 1955. When the American 1921 was inducted into the Historiques in late 2008, Vacheron Constantin combined features of the 1919 and 1921 models. Essentially, the "right crown" position of the 1919 model was retained but combined with the more elegant 1921 model's dial design featuring black Breguet numerals. However, the inclusion of a new in-house manual-winding movement (caliber 4400 AS) meant that the small seconds counter of the original models shifted position and is now located between 2 and 4 o'clock.
Unlike the two vintage models, where the crown, 12-hour numeral, and small seconds counter formed a diagonal line, in the new 40 mm version of the American 1921, the seconds subdial is positioned in a rather unusual spot. Despite criticism from some quarters about the unaligned small seconds counter, Vacheron Constantin released a reduced 36.5 mm version in 2017, and the quirky small seconds hand has become as much a part of its identity as the diagonal dial and eccentric crown.
Thanks to its elegant Art Deco style, the Historiques American 1921 has appeared in various guises over the years. To mark the opening of Vacheron's first boutique, located at the corner of Madison and 64th Street in New York, a special edition of 64 pieces of the Historiques American 1921 Boutique New York was released. Closer to the original 1919 model, the Boutique model in 18-karat yellow gold featured thicker beige-colored Arabic numerals and similar lugs.
White Gold 40 mm
We introduced the trilogy of Historiques American 1921 in April of this year, but we must admit that this 40 mm white gold model will be a real treat for connoisseurs of pure Art Deco elegance. The cushion-shaped case in 18-karat white gold measures 40 mm in diameter and 8.06 mm in height. With its shiny polished surfaces and short straight lugs, the contrast with the grainy silverish shade is very subtle. The Arabic numerals and Breguet-style minute track are painted in black, while the hour, minute, and second hands in 18-karat gold are blackened for enhanced contrast. The small seconds counter, decorated with slots inside, is located at the "3 o'clock" mark.
Vacheron's main slogan this year was "classic with a twist," and you will agree that no watch collection embodies this leitmotif more eloquently than the Historiques 1921. Everything from the diagonal dial, the crown at the "1 o'clock" position, and the small seconds hand at the "3 o'clock" position is turned to create a watch that remains unique even after a hundred years! Good news for women and men with smaller wrists is that Vacheron also released a 36.5 mm white gold model.
In-House Caliber 4400 AS
The Historiques American 1921 models are equipped with the Vacheron 4400 AS in-house manual-winding caliber, visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The movement, developed in 2008, is offset by 45 degrees from its usual axis. The caliber has an impressive diameter of 28.6 mm, a thickness of just 2.8 mm, and a power reserve of up to 65 hours. Distinguished by the Poinçon de Genève hallmark, the movement is beautifully hand-finished with Côtes de Genève, perlage, chamfered edges, and brightly polished screw heads.
Availability and Price
The 40 mm Historiques American 1921 model comes on a dark brown calfskin leather strap with an 18-karat white gold buckle. The strap is handcrafted by Serapian, a prestigious Italian leather goods company from Milan.
The retail price is €36,100.