The choice of strap can significantly impact the experience of wearing a watch.
With a variety of materials, textures, and colors, not to mention clasp options, selecting the perfect strap can be both an exciting experiment and a source of frustration. There are certain traditions regarding which material suits different types of watches and occasions: metal bracelets, fabric, and rubber for sports watches, leather for classic and formal events. However, deviating from these rules allows for personalizing watches and adapting them to the owner's style, sometimes sparking polarized opinions.
For an objective analysis, one strap stands out as possibly the most versatile option. While much depends on personal preferences, rubber straps have gained popularity, significantly improved in quality, and offer numerous options adaptable to different watches and styles. Thus, rubber can be considered the most versatile strap material today.
A Brief History of Rubber Watch Straps
The development of rubber straps did not happen overnight, and experienced collectors know that not all rubber straps are of the same quality and were far from being suitable for premium watches. How did rubber become an acceptable material for everyday and universal straps?
Rubber as a resource has been used since the 16th century, when in Mesoamerica, the sap of rubber trees was collected and processed to make balls. In 1834, American inventor Charles Goodyear discovered the vulcanization process of rubber, allowing its use in car tires. With the growing demand for rubber during the Industrial Revolution and the spread of automobiles, there was a need for a more accessible and mass-produced synthetic material. In 1909, Fritz Hofmann, working for Bayer in Germany, created the first synthetic rubber by polymerizing isoprene.
Unprocessed natural rubber is unsuitable for straps, as it sticks to the skin and cracks. Vulcanized rubber became the basis for creating durable straps, with nitrile butadiene rubber (NBR) being the most optimal, retaining softness, flexibility, and wear resistance. The first mass-successful rubber straps appeared in 1955 — these were Tropic brand straps. They were often paired with Rolex, Tudor, IWC, and Blancpain watches. They were durable, resistant to water and sweat, and significantly cheaper than metal bracelets.
For a long time, rubber straps remained the prerogative of tool diver's watches or those who changed straps for personal reasons. Rubber was not considered a material for luxury watches, especially after the quartz crisis, until 1980, when the renowned innovator in watchmaking, Hublot, released the first gold watch with a rubber strap.
The Hublot Classic model, developed by Carlo Crocco, was the forerunner of the Classic Fusion line and featured the signature porthole-style case design, an 18-karat gold case, and an integrated natural rubber strap. This event opened the path for Hublot's "Art of Fusion" concept and pushed the industry towards using rubber straps in premium watches.
Today, there are many types of rubber for straps. Besides natural rubber, hydrogenated nitrile rubber (HNBR) is popular, offering improved thermal and chemical resistance. Silicone is a more affordable option, soft and comfortable, but prone to tearing and attracting dust. Polyurethane provides a very strong but stiffer strap, which may be less comfortable. Fluoroelastomer (FKM) has become a premium and most popular material due to its resistance to heat, chemicals, and wear, while maintaining softness and elasticity, ensuring comfort and durability.
Rubber - Not Just for Divers, But Also for Premium Watches
Today, rubber straps are used not only on sports models, from Casio G-Shock to gold Vacheron Constantin Overseas, but also on premium wristwatches. Many brands, including Hublot and Omega, offer hybrid straps with a rubber base and exotic leather inserts, combining comfort and moisture resistance with an elegant appearance. For example, Tudor produces hybrid straps with a top layer of leather or alcantara and a rubber lining. Adding stitching and texture to a rubber strap significantly enhances its appearance, as seen on the Omega Aqua Terra - a model the author of the article has worn daily for several years.
Some major brands have gone even further, making rubber a central element in their premium collections. A prime example is the Rolex Oysterflex bracelet (although technically not a strap but a bracelet). It first appeared on the 37mm Everose Gold Yacht-Master model in 2015. The patented design includes a titanium-nickel frame surrounded by rubber for increased stiffness and strength. The underside of the bracelet features a protruding "cushion" for improved comfort and ventilation.
Since the release of Oysterflex, it has spread to the Daytona, Sky-Dweller, and other Yacht-Master models, but remains exclusive to precious metal pieces - it has not yet appeared on steel models. This may draw criticism but also indicates that Rolex views rubber as a premium material worthy of the most expensive watches. Personally, the author notes the yellow gold Daytona with a black dial and red minute markings on the Oysterflex as one of his favorite models.
Another unexpected example of rubber use was the Breguet Experimentale 1, released late last year. These high-frequency watches (10 Hz), with a tourbillon, magnetic constant force escapement, and regulatory case layout, are made in a 43.5 mm case of Breguet Gold pink gold with integrated lugs and a blue rubber strap. Despite the traditional case and dial design, the rubber strap and integrated lugs create an interesting contrast, making the watch more comfortable and practical. It also has a water resistance of 100 meters, which is unusual for high-class watches with a rubber strap.
If Breguet trusts rubber for its high-end models, this material can be recommended for most watches you want to personalize.
How to Add a Rubber Strap to Your Watch Collection
Third-party strap manufacturers have developed numerous models from rubber and with rubber backing suitable for a wide range of watches - from Rolex Deep-Sea to Cartier Tank. Some straps retain a traditional look with leather or textile but have a rubber base, enhancing durability and comfort, especially in hot climates.
The company Hirsch, a well-known supplier of both OEM and aftermarket straps, offers a line of Performance Straps - straps with a stitched top layer and rubber backing. The range includes options in calfskin, embossed alligator, textile, and even vegan leather. These straps combine a traditional look with the benefits of rubber, especially in terms of sweat resistance.
Calfskin and alligator embossing create an elegant image, while perforated leather, textile, and bright colors are suitable for everyday use. A white alligator strap is perfect for a tropical summer and will look striking with white ceramic watches.
The spread of FKM rubber has played a key role in the increased popularity of rubber straps. Brands like Delugs have become notable players, offering straps that suit a wide range of watches and collectors. The Delugs Cut-To-Size model in smooth FKM rubber was one of the first to look appropriate on various watches, without creating a sense of mismatch between the casual strap and expensive watches.
Thanks to the high-quality material, precise size adjustment, and a butterfly clasp with additional adjustment holes, these straps deserve attention. The catalog features watches from vintage Rolex to Cartier and complex Patek Philippe models. Excellent photography highlights versatility and style.
If smooth rubber seems too casual, Delugs offers straps with a "mosaic" pattern and canvas-like texture, giving watches a more formal look. They are suitable for both Panerai and the classic Calatrava. The color options allow for choosing a classic black strap for a business style or a bright white one for a bold look.
For those who prefer classic rubber straps, the brand Tropic has been offering original models since 1955. Although the term "tropic" is often used as a generic name for perforated and embossed rubber straps, the Tropic brand is the original source and benchmark. Modern Tropic straps are made from proprietary vulcanized rubber, providing comfort and reliability while maintaining the classic style familiar to diving watch enthusiasts.
While such straps are traditionally associated with divers, the author would gladly welcome A. Lange & Söhne on a Tropic strap.
Conclusion
While rubber straps are quite suitable for a more formal style, there are a few caveats. Firstly, some people cannot tolerate the feel of rubber on their skin, and for them, even the best FKM straps will not suffice. On the other hand, the slightly sticky surface of rubber helps the strap stay on the wrist, providing a comfortable fit.
Secondly, there is a particular feeling from wearing a high-quality leather strap - like a good pair of classic shoes, it creates a sense of completeness and style, even if the clothing is casual. A rubber strap is more like "elegant" sneakers: it looks neat but is associated with comfort and activity.
Today, many brands offer rubber straps in various price categories, making it easy to experiment with this material. With a variety of textures and constructions, rubber straps have significantly evolved from stiff plastic bands and G-Shock straps. They are not only comfortable but also look luxurious, making them a worthy choice for high-end watches. With improved durability and comfort compared to leather and metal, as well as aesthetic diversity, rubber straps have every chance to become the optimal choice for modern watches.