Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Aviator Style

The renowned and legendary brand Breguet has several important and interesting stages in its long history.

Many rightly associate the company with the era of Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 18th century, but Breguet also has other significant periods. In the first half of the 20th century, the brand focused not only on aviation but also on aircraft in general. This is a broader topic, but part of the company's heritage is linked to the creation of pilot watches, such as the models with iconic Type XX dials.

Personally, my acquaintance with Breguet began precisely with the Type XX watches, which, according to my data, first appeared in the 1990s. Over the years, the brand has repeatedly updated its pilot watch collection, also releasing Type XXI and Type XXII models. In 2012, Breguet first introduced a high-frequency mechanism with a frequency of 10 Hz in the original Type XXII watches. In 2025, in honor of the brand's 250th anniversary, the company released one of the most significant new products in the Type XX series - the Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 model. The collection includes two versions: the Type XX 2075BH/99/398 with a black anodized aluminum dial (not pictured) and the Type XX Chronographe 2075BH/G9/398 presented here with an elegant solid silver dial.

Historical Inspiration and Case Design

The Breguet Type XX platform is one of my favorites because I have always considered it the pinnacle of aesthetics among pilot watches. There are many striking and masculine pilot watches on the market, but only a few can be called truly beautiful. Although not all modern Breguet pilot models can be characterized as "beautiful," when the brand hits the mark, it can create some of the most elegant and high-class pilot watches. The Type XX Chronographe 2075 collection features an attractive design, and the model 2075BH/G9/398 demonstrates a new look and feel of what Breguet pilot watches can be.

The Type XX 2075 case is an almost exact proportional copy of the Breguet Type XX (Type 20) watches released in 1955. This is not about a standard service model, but about a special "civilian" version from the 1950s with a gold case. The new case has a diameter of 38.3 mm, a thickness of 13.2 mm, and water resistance up to 50 meters. Both versions are made from Breguet's proprietary gold alloy, similar to Honey Gold from A. Lange & Söhne but with a warmer hue. Inside the case is a new manually wound mechanism with a frequency of 5 Hz, adorned with hand-engraved decoration. Around the dial is a thin and elegant bidirectional bezel with a second time zone indication in a beautiful font. The glass is a convex sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, and additional sapphire glass is installed on the case back for viewing the mechanism.

Dial: Combination of Elegance and Functionality

I am particularly impressed by the beauty and symmetry of the Type XX Chronographe 2075 dial. As already mentioned, it is made of solid silver with applied gold hour markers and hands. This combination of elegance and classic instrumental design looks very harmonious. The combination of gold and silver tones with a slight touch of blue is rare, but in this case, it works perfectly, providing excellent readability. The dial features symmetrically arranged chronograph subdials (unlike some other versions with a "big eye" at the minute counter) and is adorned with the signature Breguet gold plate. The inscription "retour en vol" denotes the "flyback" function - an instant reset and restart of the chronograph. The large dial and narrow bezel allow the relatively small case to look substantial and not appear small.

Breguet Caliber 7279 Movement: A Blend of Tradition and Innovation

Breguet put maximum effort into creating the new movement, which will be used in this and other future sports models in the Type XX series. The Caliber 7279, developed and produced in the brand's own workshops, is an interesting combination of modern and classic technologies. On the modern side, the movement is equipped with a high-frequency balance with a frequency of 5 Hz, a silicon spring, and an anchor. These components do not require lubrication and are almost impervious to magnetic fields and temperature fluctuations. Despite the high frequency, the mainspring provides an impressive power reserve of 60 hours when fully wound. The complications include hours, minutes, and a 30-minute flyback chronograph.

On the traditional side, the Caliber 7279 is equipped with manual winding and is decorated with engraving, performed by a master by hand on the golden surface of the movement. The decor represents an image of a classic airplane with a characteristic "?" mark on board, soaring over the globe. This scene is dedicated to the Breguet 19 aircraft, which participated in one of the first true transatlantic flights from Paris to New York. For this reason, the Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 was first presented in New York in 2025.

Collection Development Prospects and Brand Positioning

The new CEO of Breguet, Gregory Kissling (formerly of Omega), has clearly indicated that the Type XX collection and the brand's sports watches are in active development and are the subject of deep study. This is a positive signal, considering that the company was previously mainly focused on high-complication and classic models. Breguet's aviation watches will continue to evolve, offering variety in mechanisms, case sizes, materials, and dial styles. Each model will carry Breguet's signature design, while the brand experiments with hand shapes and color schemes. This gold-silver version may not suit everyone, but it demonstrates Breguet's serious intentions to develop the Type XX collection and promises new interesting models in the future.

Conclusion: A Combination of Classic and Modern Technologies

The Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 is equipped with an excellent movement and has an optimal case size that will appeal to many. A more traditional black dial may attract a wider audience, but the silver version seems the most interesting to me. Both models are released not as a limited series but as special editions with individual serial numbers. The price of the special edition Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 with reference 2075BH/G9/398 is 50,200 USD.

Key Specifications of the Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075:

This model demonstrates how Breguet combines historical heritage with modern technologies, creating watches that meet the high demands of professional pilots and collectors.