The dust hadn't settled yet, and this year's Watches & Wonders was already called "lukewarm."
Some even dubbed the releases disappointing or unimpressive. I'm not sure I agree with that. Sure, there wasn't a shocking release that we'd all add to our collections without question. But should there be? Perhaps we set ourselves up for disappointment with all our forecasts and expectations?
The question is, should we expect radically new watches every year? Even several times a year? I'd say such expectations go against what truly brings joy in our shared passion.
Icons Aren't Made in a Year
To start with, watch enthusiasts lean towards certain icons in our little sub-universe. We like it when watches have historical significance and an impressive legacy. Why do we love Royal Oaks, Submariners, Speedmasters, and Tanks? Because they carry history and the accompanying status.
You can't just create an iconic watch. It's a delicate balance of the right design at the right time and execution. Plus, it's chance when the watches are accepted by the right people (or even one person) and/or become part of some historical event or development. Rarely do stars align this way. So when they do, brands count their blessings and carefully nurture their icons with tiny gradual updates over time.
Even if watches don't achieve iconic status, consistency is needed to establish them as a brand staple. No watch company wants to appear inconsistent and vague. So, if you're running a brand, what do you do? Maybe release a new dial color or size for an existing model this year? Take Rolex for example. One of Rolex's most enduring models was the Explorer 1016. It was produced from 1960 to 1989 and underwent only minor changes and updates during that time. This is how watch brands create cornerstones in their catalogs. But does it lead to impressive headlines every year? No, it doesn't.
Predicting Watches & Wonders Releases
Of course, we love to forecast upcoming events. Months before events like Watches and Wonders, predictive renders appear. "Will there be a new model X, Y, or Z this year? Here's how we think it should look!" The thing is, these predictions come from a different place compared to where these brands actually operate. Forecasts come from a place of fun excitement. "Oh, it would be so cool if..." Brands, on the other hand, approach it from a much more analytical perspective.
Developing new watches is costly. It requires huge resources, both financial and creative. Such resources are scarce even for very successful watch companies. Therefore, they use them with great care and intent, preferably with nearly surgical precision. Typically, brands don't develop entirely new, revolutionary sports watches if there's still a queue for their current models. Similarly, if their retail stores are fully stocked (sold out) and struggling with sales, they don't push new models.
It may not be as romantic as we'd like. We think a bunch of watch geeks like us are constantly in a lab dreaming up new fantastic watches. In reality, it's a business, and creative watch geeks are just a small part of it.
Silence at Watches & Wonders Isn't Bad
I would say it's even good. From major, established watch brands, you want consistency and evolution, not revolution. There's a whole ecosystem of microbrands and independent companies for those seeking thrills and originality. It's not beneficial for big brands with rich histories to chase every trend and constantly try to reinvent the wheel. I'm sure we would admire their watches much less if they did.
Don't get me wrong: I understand disappointment when a brand's released watches seem bland and uninspiring. In fact, I wrote about my disappointment with Rolex this year. The problem is, I'm projecting my tastes and desires onto the brand, and that's not Rolex's concern. I lamented the lack of thin, elegant, understated models. This says more about me than about Rolex.
We set ourselves up for disappointment by placing all these hopes on events like Watches & Wonders. We tend to think it's about creative bankruptcy of these big brands. In some cases, this is certainly true. Some brands are constantly trying to find a way to stay relevant. In my humble opinion, Panerai falls into this category. But it's too easy to label every release from every brand this way. Most of them are run by capable people making justified strategic decisions that deserve a little more respect.
But Predictions Are Half the Fun of Watches & Wonders
All of this is fine, but predictions are also just fun. The anticipation of what exotic creations we'll see at Watches and Wonders is half the fun of the entire event.
We also know that brands pay attention to predictions in watch media and social networks. They watch and take notes. And we know that some of them truly appreciate the insight of some predictions, referencing historical events and predicting why they might be relevant today and should return.
So keep it up. It's quite possible that at some point your wish will come true. But won't you face disappointment in the short term? I'm afraid so. We've become addicted to instant gratification, and the news cycle, even in the watch world, has become infinitely shorter than just ten years ago. We simply expect everything from the world all the time, and we'll have to get used to not getting it.
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