Grab a cup of coffee and get ready for a new Sunday morning showdown.
For this week's battle, we've chosen two new releases from Tudor. At this year's Watches and Wonders exhibition, many watch enthusiasts agreed that Tudor's new releases were more intriguing than Rolex's. So what if we pit two popular Tudor watch models against each other? Let's find out which is the favorite. Jan chose the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, while Anton opted for the Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer with a black dial and bezel. You have to decide which watch will win!
This week, we're going to compete a bit differently than in our usual Sunday morning showdowns. Instead of allowing two different brands to face off, we've decided to make this a Tudor affair. So, if you're looking for a new Tudor watch, which of the two contenders would you choose? Perhaps the Black Bay Master Chronometer with a black dial and bezel? The clean aesthetic devoid of superfluous vintage elements has become a sort of revelation, instantly making this model a favorite for many Tudor fans. Or will you choose the new Black Bay 58 GMT, which people have wanted for years? With these more compact and slimmer Black Bay GMTs, Tudor has finally released a GMT that fans immediately loved. It's time for Jan and Anton to make their arguments, so stay here, read their arguments, and vote for your favorite.
Last week...
Before diving into this week's battle, let's look at last week's results. The Doxa Sub 200T faced off against the Aquastar Model 60. These are two different watches inspired by diving tools of the past. In the end, the Doxa Sub 200T emerged victorious with 66% of the votes, while the Aquastar received 34%. It was an obvious victory for the more straightforward watch of the two. However, quite a few people voiced support for the Aquastar in the comments and were dissatisfied with the Doxa's appearance. In the end, votes are what matter, and Doxa was the clear winner! Now let's move on to this week's battle. Gentlemen, take it away!
Anton: Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer
As some of you know, I love GMT watches. So I was pleasantly surprised when Tudor introduced the Black Bay 58 GMT. Finally, the brand presented us with a slimmer GMT in the Black Bay line. The Black Bay GMT and Black Bay Pro models are known for their bulky profiles, which spark heated debates among Tudor fans. Until recently, I hesitated to buy the Black Bay Pro due to its bulky case. But just two months ago, I had the chance to try the Black Bay Pro on Forstner bracelets, and I realized these were the Tudor watches I needed.
Fast forward a month to the Watches and Wonders 2024 exhibition, and my newfound confidence was shaken with the arrival of the Black Bay 58 GMT. It seemed as if Tudor's designers had cracked the code to win me over with slimmer GMT watches. But unfortunately, they couldn't do it with the Black Bay Pro. That's why I'm not defending the Black Bay 58 GMT. If I had to choose a Tudor GMT watch, it would always be the Black Bay Pro. I prefer its look, inspired by the first-generation Explorer II, over the Black Bay GMT models inspired by the Rolex GMT-Master.
Tudor's Cosmetic Aging Dilemma
Moreover, the new Black Bay 58 GMT falls into Tudor's usual trap of cosmetic aging. I understand that Tudor likes to show it draws inspiration from the past. But the design itself already accomplishes this without fake vintage elements. The gold-plated minute track, hands, and numbers on the bezel insert are just too much. The new Black Bay model in a black case, METAS certified, on the other hand, shows that Tudor doesn't need such things. As soon as I looked at the new 41mm Black Bay, it became my favorite model in Tudor's current collection.
I defended the new Black Bay Master Chronometer in a previous episode of our Sunday Morning Showdown series, where it lost to the current Rolex Submariner ref. 124060. There, I explained that Tudor doesn't need retro styling. Vintage touches often turn out to be excessive, and this was my only complaint about the Black Bay "Burgundy" model that came out last year. I enjoyed wearing this watch, but after a few days, I got tired of it. As I explained in the review, I'm not looking for modern 41mm watches with a vintage look. They clearly mimic what they are not.
Clear, Modern Look with a Hint of Vintage Inspiration
Tudor proves that aging tricks aren't necessary by releasing the new black version of the same watch. The new Black Bay looks crisp and clean, and this is as close as Tudor has ever gotten to creating a modern version of its classic Submariner. The good news is that you can purchase it for 4,510 euros. You won't have to pay inflated prices for vintage Tudor Submariners, which sometimes even exceed the cost of their five-digit Rolex counterparts. It's a crazy realization because, with the modern Black Bay, you're getting undeniably better watches.
The Black Bay is just a complete package. Starting with the clean appearance, which makes these watches modern for diving, with subtle visual cues linking them to the 1950s Submariners. The main reminders of the past are the aluminum bezel insert and the Oyster-style bracelet with faux rivets. I would always buy a watch with this bracelet rather than a Jubilee, because, in my opinion, it suits the style better.
Details of the Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer in Black
The dial and bezel complement the 41mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 13.6 mm and a length of 50 mm with a 21 mm lug-to-lug distance and a 200 m diving depth. Inside is the Kenissi-made caliber MT5602-U. The automatic movement with 25 jewels is METAS certified as a master chronometer, operates at 28,800 vph, and offers a 70-hour power reserve. The combination of the updated design, improved case dimensions, and METAS-certified movement undoubtedly makes these watches the best among diving watches costing up to 5,000 euros.
Furthermore, these are my favorite watches in this battle. If I need a Tudor GMT, I would choose the Black Bay Pro. In my view, the Pro looks much better than the 58 GMT because it doesn't suffer from contrived fake vintage details. And that's why I love the new Black Bay Master Chronometer so much. Both models perfectly demonstrate why Tudor doesn't need to mimic the watches of the past. The brand excels at creating modern watches that draw enough inspiration from the past without plundering it. That's why the new Black Bay Master Chronometer in black is the undeniable winner for me.
Jan: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
When I looked at the new Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, my thoughts drifted back about 25 years. I was still a student, and my dream was the Rolex GMT-Master II 16710 with a Coke bezel. Just a few years later, in 2003, I acquired my first GMT-Master (reference 1675 from 1971). Then, in 2006, I purchased brand-new Rolex GMT-Master II 16710. I also collected all three available bezel inserts, which could be easily swapped with a pocket knife.
The Allure of GMT
I remember that back then, the price difference between the Rolex Submariner 16610 and the GMT-Master II 16710 was about 100 euros. Rolex charged a little more for the additional complication. Today, the difference between a steel Submariner Date and a GMT-Master II is (just) 400 euros. But the difference between then and now is also that the retail price of the Submariner Date is €10,700, and the GMT-Master II is €11,100.
Interestingly, the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT not only reminded me of the GMT-Master II 16710 I longed for, but the price of €4,670 is close to what the Rolex model cost back then. Additionally, the price difference between the Black Bay 58 GMT and the Black Bay diver is 160 euros in favor of the latter.
A small price difference should never be the reason for choosing the Black Bay diver over the Black Bay 58 GMT (or Submariner and GMT-Master). It's all about the look and appeal.
Black Bay 58 GMT Meets Many Requirements
So, comparing these two Tudor watches is less about technical specs and more about style and taste. I've always preferred the GMT-Master (II) over the Submariner (though I did buy a few of those later on). The GMT-Master (II) remains one of my favorite Rolex sports watches, and the 16710 is the one I regret selling the most (as you can see in this video we made).
The Rolex Explorer II never interested me enough to purchase it, so the Black Bay Pro Anton mentions aren't for me either. The allure of GMT for me has always been the colorful bezel and the ability to read the time in a third time zone (which is also possible in the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT). The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT combines several elements from different iterations of the GMT-Master while maintaining the typical Tudor style of the case, dial, and hands.
My View on Tudor Has Changed
For a long time, I had some reservations about buying Tudor watches. Call me a Gen X, but when I bought my first Rolex watches 25 years ago, Tudor watches seemed like copies using ETA movements. This image stuck with me for a long time, which is entirely my fault. The brand has done a fantastic job with its Pelagos and Black Bay series and has filled a gap by offering watches reminiscent of the Rolex models that fathers (or mothers) of young buyers purchased in the 1980s or 90s.
At Fratello, we have young people working with us, and they don't have the reservations about Tudor and Rolex that people of my age (or older) do. They perceive Tudor as a mature brand, independent of Rolex (which it is, especially in terms of production). Tudor does an amazing job with many of its new watches, partnerships, and marketing campaigns. These things resonate with a younger audience, perhaps even more than Rolex and many other brands operating in the same field.
The GMT-Master II ship has sailed, and I can't imagine myself spending 15,000 on a watch that I once bought new for 3,500 euros (with a discount - ha!). I think the Tudor Black Bay GMT 58 is quite an attractive alternative. I believe there's nothing to criticize about them, unless you dislike the gold-tone elements in these watches. Besides, there's the Tudor Black Bay that Anton defends, which could be your choice. I think it's a great alternative to the Submariner. Without the crown, these two new Tudors even combine a vintage look (Submariner 6536/5508 and GMT-Master 6542) with modern technology and design.
Are They Better Than Five-Digit Rolex References?
I might offend a few Rolex owners with this, but I also believe that the new Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer and Black Bay 58 GMT are better or at least on par with the Rolex models of the past. The so-called five-digit references, such as the GMT-Master II 16710 and Submariner 16610, were and still are great watches, but their bracelets don't stand a chance against modern Tudor bracelets. The new Master Chronometer movements from Tudor also outperform the Rolex 3135 and 3185 calibers. The only reason to consider the five-digit Rolex models is sentimentality, which can be very compelling. Regarding aesthetics, these new Tudors come so close to the mentioned Rolex models that if you like those, you'll also like these Black Bays. The money you would spend today on five-digit GMT-Master II or Sub will allow you to purchase both of these new Black Bay models.
If I had to choose, just like 20 years ago when I was considering buying a Rolex, I would choose the Black Bay 58 GMT. I prefer the GMT function over the diver's bezel, and I like the additional colors. If in the past water resistance played a role in Rolex watches (100 meters for the GMT-Master and 300 meters for the Submariner), it plays no role in these Tudor watches. Both models are guaranteed water-resistant to 200 meters.
Ultimately, it all comes down to taste. Do you prefer GMT or diver's watches? Do you like colors and gold-tone elements or monochrome divers? Now it's time to cast your vote and let us know which one you prefer!