The boutique Swiss brand Vicenterra exemplifies the independent spirit of boutique watchmakers who create unique counterpoints to the familiar designs and philosophies of major brands. Moving to the third major collection of distinctive and luxurious concepts with an astronomical slant, the brand's latest release expands on the 3D planetary complications of previous releases like the Tycho Brahe Tome 2 Blue, which our David reviewed and highly praised. The new limited edition Vicenterra AstroLUNA series offers a striking and memorable arrangement of GMT and moon phase complications, continuing the legacy of a brand that stylistically far exceeds its price range.
Vicenterra offers the AstroLUNA series with two case options, both crafted from brightly polished Grade 5 titanium. The simpler of the two, the AstroLUNA Classic model, aligns with recent trends, featuring a 41.5 mm size and a basic shape that includes tapered lugs and a narrow sloping bezel. The more characteristic AstroLUNA standard model is significantly larger, measuring 43.5 mm in diameter. The design of the standard AstroLUNA employs a flared, semi-square approach, which nonetheless includes smooth curves of the lugs and a distinctive notch running the length of the case sides from lug to lug. If the titanium case of the Tome 2 serves as a model, these are beautifully executed cases from a Swiss case-making specialist. Both models utilize a signed conical crown at the 2 o'clock position, but the square sides of the standard AstroLUNA give this element a more formal look than the more open crown of the AstroLUNA Classic. Both Vicenterra AstroLUNA models feature sapphire crystals on the dial and case back with somewhat insufficient water resistance of 50 meters.
Both versions of the Vicenterra AstroLUNA watches have identical dial designs as they possess the same functionalities. The main sub-dial for time measurement at the 12 o'clock position is adorned with a shimmering midnight blue aventurine glass with a random sparkling pattern reminiscent of a starry night sky.
The sub-dial design itself with skeletonized alpha hands and a distinctive round cutout at the 3 o'clock position for the date window has migrated from previous Vicenterra models, but in the AstroLUNA model, this familiar look has been enhanced with new applied indexes of 18-carat white gold and a polished bevel around the edge of the sub-dial. Most of the remaining area under the crystal is occupied by three curved bridges with hammer finish and polished bevels. The sophisticated astronomical theme set by the aventurine sub-dial continues in the AstroLUNA complications at the 4 o'clock and 7 o'clock positions.
The indicator at 4 o'clock uses a proprietary three-dimensional globe, hand-painted for a unique approach to the GMT complication. The AstroLUNA globe is not a running time indicator in a single time zone, but rotates around its axis once a day, with a miniature golden sun-shaped pointer indicating the time zone where it is currently noon.
The sapphire markers flanking either side of the globe also indicate where in the world it is currently 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM. While this complication may not be as useful as a traditional GMT, it lends a theatricality to Vicenterra's design language. This element is symmetrically balanced at the 7 o'clock position by a spherical three-dimensional rotating moon phase indicator with a triangular pointer. Combining images of the sun, moon, earth, and stars, AstroLUNA enhances its own visual theme.
Compared to previous base ETA movements, the AstroLUNA series is equipped with the Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier Seed 3000 automatic movement, complemented by a fully custom-made Vicenterra module for moon phases and GMT complications. Those familiar with the work of Vaucher Manufacture (they produce nearly all Richard Mille movements, all Parmigiani Fleurier calibers, and supply many smaller and larger manufacturers) know that high-end finishing should be expected from this movement, although it is not reflected in these renders.
The polished skeletonized crescent-shaped rotor is framed by a blue aventurine movement plate. Both astronomical complications of the AstroLUNA model are visible through this plate from the back, with a playful French inscription printed on it: "At the other end of the world and among the stars." In terms of performance, this internal module provides an impressively accurate moon phase complication: according to Vicenterra, it needs to be corrected by one day every 126 years. The base movement's characteristics are less impressive: the power reserve is a relatively ordinary 50 hours at a frequency of 28,800 beats per second. Vicenterra equips the AstroLUNA model with a dark blue calfskin or alligator leather strap.
The limited Vicenterra AstroLUNA series, with its spectacular finishing and unique yet complex three-dimensional complications, presents a play in ultra-high watchmaking art at a considerably more friendly price - and this is already the third major collection of the brand, meaning this isn't their first rodeo. The Vicenterra AstroLUNA and Vicenterra AstroLUNA Classic models are released in a limited edition of 99 pieces each, and both models are available for pre-order now on the brand's website at a price of 13,500 Swiss francs ($15,000). For more detailed information, visit the brand's website.