One of the main beneficiaries of the current, more colorful era of watchmaking is the racing chronograph segment.
Motorsport by nature is a bright and visually dynamic form of competition, and expanding the color palette of motorsport-inspired watches beyond the dull blacks, silvers, and blues of past years gives them a better chance of conveying the spirit of track competition. Vulcain has embraced this concept with its latest chronograph, combining the clean simplicity of a 60s-style two-register racing chronograph with the charismatic British racing green hue. The limited edition Vulcain Chronograph Green, simply named Vulcain Chronograph Green, continues the brand's record of producing vintage models that suit the era, offering a sharply detailed classic chronograph with a vibrant and stylish color palette.
Like previous models in the series, the Vulcain Chronograph Green features a stainless steel case with a compact and balanced width of 38mm. Add to this a thickness of 12.4mm, concentrated mainly in the high domed old-school sapphire crystal, and the Chronograph Green becomes an impressively elegant model on the wrist, complementing mid-century clean lines with subtle, balanced proportions. The main case is almost elementarily simple: tapering lugs without chamfers, flat, vertically brushed top surfaces, and convincingly thin vertical case edges treated with sharp mirror polishing. The narrow sloping polished bezel is also old-fashioned in its design, but it gives the case shape enough dimension so that on the wrist it does not appear coarse or unfinished. A thin crown and tall piston-style pushers perfectly complete the sporty 60s look.
It is worth noting that Vulcain also employs a vintage approach to visual weight distribution in this case. As mentioned earlier, a significant portion of the height of the already thin case is given over to the crystal, and a large part to the massive case back. How well this tactic allows the case thickness to be concealed on the wrist depends on subjective factors - some wrists, including mine, have pronounced bone structure, allowing the deep case back of the Chronograph Green to settle in and virtually disappear when worn. Others may find that it 'floats' on the wrist, with the mid-case sitting significantly above the skin.
However, when the case back design works, it works beautifully. The case back design itself is clean yet unremarkable, with simple engraving and the Vulcain text logo. In keeping with the old style, the Vulcain Chronograph Green model has an old-school water resistance: its depth is only 50 meters.
Stylistically, the dial of the Vulcain Chronograph Green is lean. It is a balanced, simple design for a no-date, two-register sports chronograph, with a few subtle details that set it apart. With such a simple design, each detail takes on special significance, and it is clear that Vulcain has paid close attention to every element. From the concentric outer tachymeter and decimal scales to the minimal text on the dial at the '12 o'clock' and '6 o'clock' positions, all printed elements are light, airy, and delightfully crisp, allowing the visual balance of the layout and directing attention to the main timekeeping elements. Sleek, thin faceted stick indices and matching polished stick hands mirror the sleek simplicity of the case.
However, it is the twin silver subdials at the '3 o'clock' and '9 o'clock' positions (particularly the chronograph minute subdial at '3 o'clock') that allow Vulcain to stretch its stylistic muscles a bit.
Firstly, Vulcain gives these subdials a shape that dynamically catches light at different angles: their outer edges feature relatively deep, bowl-like sloped surfaces, and for the central segments of the subdials, the brand has opted for a raised azurage platform. This gives the subdials a pronounced 'lip' across the center of their diameter, creating a unique series of highlights and shadows rarely seen in similar designs.
Touches like elongated hash marks at three-minute intervals and the arrow-tipped hand of the chronograph minute subdial add character to the design without disrupting its elegant simplicity.
All these elements, however, have been carried over from previous Vulcain Chronograph dial models. The new model stands out with its finely grained, dynamic sunburst-finished main dial surface. Although Vulcain itself refers to British racing green as an influence, the rich emerald hue used for this dial is brighter and more intense than most traditional BRG variants, with an almost jewel-like sheen in bright direct light. On the wrist, this color definitely catches the eye, and given the watch's small size, overall this brighter color does not seem excessive.
Vulcain equips the Chronograph Green with the hand-wound Sellita SW510 M BH chronograph movement. In the modern watch industry, there are not many third-party movement options for hand-wound chronographs, and over the past few years, the SW510 M BH model has become a cornerstone of the new wave of chronographs from independent brands priced up to $5,000.
This is largely due to the movement's impressive 63-hour power reserve at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour. Furthermore, the movement's accuracy is commendable: averaging +8 seconds per day throughout the testing period. However, the cam-actuated chronograph activation system may irritate some purists, but at this price point, it's hard to argue with.
To complete the classic 60s look, Vulcain has equipped our Chronograph Green sample with a warm saddle leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching. The strap itself is soft, lightweight, and comfortable, but due to the lack of variety and nuances on the surface compared to some competitors, it feels a bit flat on the wrist. On the other hand, the clasp is excellent: it features a brightly polished Vulcain logo in the form of a flying letter V.
Few segments of sports watches benefit more from the contemporary 'color revolution' in watchmaking than mid-century-inspired racing chronographs, as these more colorful versions better capture the noise and energy of a classic racing weekend.
The new limited edition Vulcain Chronograph Green is proof of this principle in action: the combination of precise compact proportions, clean 60s sports style, and the vibrant British racing green color imparts a lively, charismatic energy to the series. Only 100 pieces of the Vulcain Chronograph Green will be produced, and the watches are now available through the brand's e-commerce platform. The price of the Vulcain Chronograph Green model is 2,500 Swiss Francs. For more information, visit the brand's website.
Essential Information
- Brand: Vulcain
- Model: Chronograph Green
- Price: 2,500 CHF
- Dimensions: Diameter 38mm, thickness 12.4mm
- When would you personally wear it: As everyday sports watch or as a vibrant accent to vintage-style outfits.
- Friends we would primarily recommend it to: Vintage enthusiasts looking for a reliable retro chronograph with modern reliability and build quality.
- Best feature of the watch: Elegant proportions, vibrant green dial design, excellent movement execution.
- Worst features of the watch: Weak water resistance, somewhat anonymous pair of straps.