When Ian Fleming first wrote James Bond in “Casino Royale”, Rolex was the right choice for the British superspy.
Moreover, when a decade later Sean Connery first appeared on the silver screen as the debonair MI6 spy in the 1963 film “Dr. No”, Rolex was still a fitting watch for Bond. However, over the decades, the Rolex brand and its clientele have changed significantly. These changes led to a significant wardrobe shift in Pierce Brosnan's first Bond film “GoldenEye”. For the first time in Bond films, Omega appeared on the protagonist's wrist. Previous films had featured various non-Rolex watches including the Breitling Top Time and digital Seikos (among others), but in “GoldenEye”, Omega became Bond's everyday adornment. This continued for almost three decades thanks to Jean-Claude Biver. Perhaps it's time for a new change.
Bond and Rolex
In 1953, Rolex was already an established watchmaker for people of discerning taste. The simplest explanation for why Fleming chose Rolex for Bond is that he wore them himself. Fleming famously wore the Rolex Explorer 1016 and considered it the obvious choice for a cunning and seductive man like Bond. Fleming, a former naval intelligence officer, wrote Bond as a sort of alter ego, infusing him with tales from his own experience and/or imagination. The Rolex on Bond's wrist was merely an extension of the parallels between Fleming and Bond. EON Productions, which produces the Bond film series, placed Rolex on the protagonist's wrist in accordance with the books.
However, by 1995, Rolex did not occupy the same market position it once held. Rolex had become more of a trinket than anything else. According to costume designer Lindy Hemming, who chose Bond's first Omegas, she is quoted in the New York Times: “…Rolexes had become quite flashy… Rolex was part of the urban guys' culture. At that moment, it didn’t seem appropriate for Bond.”
Bond and Omega
According to Jean-Claude Biver, who headed Omega in the mid-nineties, EON Productions wanted $50,000 to put Omega on Bond's wrist in Brosnan's first film. Biver gave them $2 million, and the rest is history. Despite Omega's status as paid product placement on Bond's wrist, in 1995 Omega was still a much better choice for Bond than Rolex. It was a more discreet option that nonetheless provided Bond with both classic dress watch appeal and the right tool for an explosion. I still disagree with Bond wearing a dive watch with a tuxedo, starting with Connery, but that's a complaint for another article.
Although the last three decades with Omega have been a lot of fun, all good things come to an end. Just as Rolex lasted with Bond as long as it could, so did Omega. Omega is no longer a brand preferred by only the informed minority; it has become a mass-market juggernaut. Just look at the furor caused by the release of the MoonSwatch to understand that it no longer matches James Bond's character. However, there is still an undiscovered brand that embodies a bit of that classic James Bond magic.
The Next Chapter
In my opinion, Cartier best fits the spirit of James Bond among all other watch brands on the market. Nowadays, it certainly suits the character more than Rolex and Omega, as it is still perceived by most as a totem of status and old-world good taste. While the brand's watchmaking was once seen by many as secondary, the times of mid-range ETA movements and a sole focus on jewelry are over. Cartier is a serious watchmaking company, and the world is finally recognizing it as such. With Daniel Craig leaving the franchise after the release of “No Time to Die”, this is the perfect time for his character to switch to Cartier. It is the best choice because Cartier and Bond represent quality and style.
When MI6 needs a special kind of agent, they entrust the job to James Bond. Because he can always be relied upon - he will do what is needed and do it well. The same can be said of Cartier watches. With offerings like the automatic Cartier 1847 MC movement included in the Santos watch package, the famed French brand has significantly upped its game. The quality of Cartier watches today is on par with the best models. It is certainly on par with Omega and Rolex.
James Bond is not fashionable. He is stylish. There is an important distinction between the two. Fashion trends are about copying what others do. Style is about being able to stay popular while sticking to the classics. This means you must look your best in any, even the most casual, situation. Cartier embodies this philosophy better than any other brand today. The two most iconic models of this brand - the Santos and Tank - have remained virtually unchanged for over a century and yet remain some of the most stylish watches of all time.
The Diving Watch Dilemma
“But what about dive watches?” you ask. “James Bond must have a dive watch.” Unfortunately, Cartier's lineup lacks a worthy diver. This is certainly a potential obstacle to Cartier continuing Omega's work. And perhaps this obstacle is the main reason why Cartier will not become Bond's next watch. Nevertheless, Cartier has several ways to overcome this obstacle.
The first and perhaps simplest solution would be to bring back the recently discontinued Calibre de Cartier dive watch line with a substantial aesthetic update. The watches had water resistance up to 300 meters and a unidirectional bezel for diving. Another option for Cartier could be to release an entirely new line of dive watches, which is not unprecedented. After all, the Calibre model was only launched in 2010 and was the brand's first step towards divers. Although the current Cartier watch lineup lacks a dive watch, we have plenty of time to correct this. After all, EON has not yet even officially announced the next actor for this famous role.
Final Word
As the character of James Bond is periodically refreshed by a new actor, so too should his watch choice be. While Bond has remained relatively unchanged for 70 years, the brands around him have not. For a franchise like 007, it's important to some extent to reflect the time in which moviegoers live. If EON Productions wants to do this with its next iteration of Bond, then the best choice for his watch, in my opinion, would be Cartier. Nowadays, it is the leading symbol of quality and style in watchmaking. Although it may be unlikely for Cartier to grace 007's wrist in the next series of films, stranger things have happened. If James Bond has taught us anything, it's to never say never again.