A striking chronometer with a hematite dial.
At the Watches & Wonders salon, Zenith introduced the new G.F.J. model. Recall that the initials G.F.J. stand for the name of Zenith's founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. The first model with this name was awarded the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix in 2025 as the best chronometer. The main feature of the new model is the striking hematite dial. Also presented at Watches & Wonders was a model with a black onyx dial, housed in a tantalum case, rare for the industry.
The watch is powered by a restored Caliber 135. This movement was developed specifically for chronometric competitions and produced from 1949 to 1962. The competitive version of this caliber, marked as 135-O, won 235 awards, including 5 first prizes from the Neuchatel Observatory, received between 1950 and 1954.
The Caliber 135 was not recreated in its original form but was reworked to meet the needs of the 21st century. The diameter (30 mm), balance oscillation frequency, and design features like the enlarged balance wheel were preserved, but modern materials and technical solutions were added to improve performance and reliability.
The updated movement has a power reserve of 72 hours. The balance wheel is equipped with regulating screws and a Breguet overcoil. A stop-seconds feature ensures precise time setting. The movement is regulated to an accuracy of +/- 2 seconds per day and is officially COSC certified.
The movement is housed in a 39.15 x 10.5 mm case made of yellow gold. The lug-to-lug distance is 45.75 mm. The case style, particularly the stepped bezel and curved lugs, is inspired by 1950s chronometers.
Under the sapphire crystal, the hematite dial is clearly visible with characteristic veins that make each piece in this series unique. At the lower part of the dial is an enlarged seconds counter made of mother-of-pearl. On the dial's periphery, one can see a guilloche pattern inspired by the brick facade of the Zenith manufacture in Le Locle. Completing the look are applied hour markers made of yellow gold, which complement the finely faceted hands.
The finish of the caliber is different from last year's model. Through the sapphire case back, it's evident that these watches return to a more classical style of decoration. This includes wide Geneva stripes, hand-beveled edges, dark rhodium plating, and yellow gold-colored engraving.
The new model offers a wide selection of straps. The primary option includes a beige nubuck and alligator leather strap, a green alligator leather strap, and a black calfskin leather strap. For an additional cost, a yellow gold bracelet with a double folding clasp can be included.
The watch is released in a limited edition of 161 pieces. The model is available for pre-order exclusively in the brand's physical and online boutiques, as well as through authorized retailers worldwide.
The estimated price of the new model is €54,000 or $51,900.
Among other novelties at the salon, Zenith presented additions to the Chronomaster Sport collection: a striking bi-color model and a series of skeletons with sapphire dials.