Given the popularity and ubiquity of sports watches with integrated bracelets, it can be challenging to discern which have existed since the 1970s and which have only recently joined the sea of choices to ride the wave.
The Baume & Mercier Riviera is one of the most popular models, debuting in 1973 and named after the French Riviera, the capital of laid-back chic vacations. Currently, the Riviera catalog (now in its fifth generation) is very extensive: from petite quartz models and well-balanced automatic daily wearers to sporty chronographs and complex perpetual calendars. Regardless of the model, all modern Riviera watches retain the signature 12-sided bezel with four screws and integrated bracelets and straps. Now, Baume & Mercier has expanded the lineup with skeletons, or, in French, squelettes. We tested the new Baume & Mercier Riviera Skeleton watches in hand to understand if they are a worthy addition to the already extensive collection.
The Riviera Skeleton model with a stainless steel case measuring 42mm across and just over 51mm from lug to lug is at the top of the collection. Although the case is undoubtedly large, it sits comfortably on the wrist thanks to a relatively thin profile of 11.1mm. As seen in the photos, the watch occupies a significant space on Ariel's wrist, yet it cannot be called bulky: it sits relatively flat on the wrist.
Nevertheless, they are better suited for larger wrists than smaller ones to handle the wide proportions. The case is predominantly satin-finished, and the polishing on the bezel edges accentuates the 12-sided silhouette of the watch. The four screws holding the bezel in place have bead-blasted ADLC coating, and we continue to see similar dark details throughout the case. For instance, the octagonal crown, adorned with the Phi company logo, features embossing and black outlines. There is also a black bezel ring made of anodized aluminum.
These black details on the outer case perfectly complement the openwork faceted black dial. According to Baume & Mercier representatives, the lines of the skeletonized dial were inspired by the architecture dotting the rocky coastline of the French Riviera. Whether true or not, I see thoughtful cutouts that not only visually attract attention but also serve as convenient hour markers, making time determination easier - something that is often a problem in skeleton watches.
The openwork black surface features vertical brushing, with minute and second markers around the periphery. In the center of the dial is a pair of skeletonized hands with luminous tips. The Baume & Mercier logo hovers above the dial, applied to the underside of the sapphire crystal, and at the 3 o'clock position is the Riviera inscription, which does not seem intrusive but rather harmonizes well with the cutout splinter at the 9 o'clock position. The visible balance wheel takes center stage at the 6 o'clock position, adding a touch of dynamism to the watch dial.
The semi-skeletonized movement, partially visible through the openwork dial, is the Sellita AMT2500, which, according to the brand, was “exclusively developed for Baume & Mercier.” As you may already know, Sellita movements with the AMT designation are manufactured at Manufacture AMT SA, a special division of the watch factory responsible for designing bespoke calibers for watch brands.
The Sellita AMT2500 operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides the Riviera Skeleton watches with a 38-hour power reserve. When viewing the movement through the sapphire crystal window on the case back, aside from the black openwork rotor, there's nothing notable in terms of decoration and embellishments; everything is simple and straightforward. As I see it, these skeletonized Riviera watches are the complete opposite of a mullet: party in the front, business in the back. True to its sea-inspired name, the Riviera has water resistance up to 100 meters.
Baume & Mercier opted to equip the Riviera Skeleton with a black rubber strap with a canvas pattern, which suits the watch perfectly and, as required by the design codes of the model, integrates seamlessly into the case. The strap features a triple folding clasp made of stainless steel, released by side buttons, and adorned with the Phi logo. The clasp can be adjusted to make the strap fit looser or tighter. Thanks to the convenient interchangeable element system, the black strap can be replaced with a more vibrant one, of which Baume & Mercier offers a multitude.
The Riviera Skeleton watches look and feel like premium class watches; certainly, the movement might lack some power reserve and decorative flair, but given the relatively affordable price of $4500 USD, I consider the watches offer an impressive package. This includes an authentic 1970s-style case and bezel design, decent 100-meter water resistance, a cool skeletonized dial, and a practical strap-switching feature. Swiss-made skeleton watches usually cost more, especially sporty versions, so Baume & Mercier's offering is an excellent option in the under $5,000 category.
For more detailed information about the Baume & Mercier Riviera Skeleton ref. 10721, please visit the brand's website.