Choosing the Rolex Explorer II as the best watch I've ever had was very tempting.
I pondered over it, and yes, my Explorer II 16570 “Polar” was a great watch in many ways. But it wasn't the best I've ever had. The main drawback? An overly white, almost lifeless dial. My white Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 aligns much better with my expectations for the Explorer II. You might wonder: why then didn't these Grand Seiko become the subject of this article? The answer is simple: because my Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time surpasses them in every way.
In my modest collection, there are a few watches I would never consider selling. For example, my glow-in-the-dark Chronoswiss Timemaster - this rare mechanical giant with manual winding I will never sell. Similarly with my Omega Speedmaster Replica 3594.50 - the combination of Broad Arrow hands and a steel bezel make these watches somewhat unusual, but perfectly suited as my “Speedy.” The Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 came to me as if by watch karma, and did what the Explorer II “Polar” couldn’t: quenched my thirst for a white dial universal watch. But none of them have what the best watch I've ever had possesses. My Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time combines the qualities of all the mentioned models and even more. Let me explain what these advantages are.
The Best Watch I've Ever Owned - Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time
Like the Chronomaster, these watches are rarely seen. Like my Speedy, they have their own features. And, like my quartz Grand Seiko, fate decided that these watches would be mine. I first saw the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time in 2015 when the model was presented in Brussels. They immediately touched my watch enthusiast heart. Firstly, because of the indescribable allure of world time watches. A dial depicting a world map before your eyes - it's a dream. Even in my childhood, long before Google Earth and Maps, I would spend hours leafing through an atlas in search of exotic names of distant places. My globe served as a nightlight too. My fascination with worldtimer watches is quite understandable. When the opportunity arose to acquire a world time watch from a respected Swiss manufacturer with an interesting mechanism and unusual twist, I couldn't miss the chance to fulfill my watch dream.
Inspiring World Time Watches
Mentioning worldtimer watches immediately brings to mind Patek Philippe. It is one of the key specializations of the brand, whose roots trace back to the revolutionary developments of the Geneva watchmaker Louis Cottier (1894–1996). His ingenious world time mechanism formed the basis of the first Patek Philippe wristwatch with the Heures Universelles function - reference 1415, released in 1939. In 2000, the first serial worldtimer - reference 5110 appeared, and in 2006, the stunning 5130 debuted. Ten years later, the model 5230 was released. Unfortunately, these and subsequent magnificent references are far beyond my budget.
Of course, there are affordable world time watches from Frederique Constant and Christopher Ward, but, excuse my snobbery, certain complications are better realized by major houses such as Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Another Case of Watch Karma
The Geophysic collection from JLC dates back to 1958. The original Geophysic ref. E168 model was produced for less than a year. These were watches specially designed for scientific expeditions to the most severe and unexplored regions of the planet. I first saw modern interpretations of these adventure watches in 2015 in the not-so-unexplored Brussels, at a press presentation for the Benelux countries. I was particularly impressed by the three-hand Geophysic True Second and Universal Time models in steel and pink gold. Especially the Universal Time in steel - a watch with a practical function and a bright world map dial dominated by blue. However, the price of €14,600 made me postpone the dream.
Nevertheless, the image of a complicated yet powerful watch with an interesting mechanism featuring the Gyrolab balance and a gold rotor remained in my memory. Ten years after its release and six years after it was discontinued, I encountered the steel version of the Geophysic Universal Time under different stars. Now I could afford these watches and bought them without hesitation.
Life with the Geophysic Universal Time
Did the Geophysic Universal Time meet the expectations and years of thought? Absolutely! Let's start with the most noticeable feature - the world map dial. The oceans and seas are done in various shades of lacquered blue, while the continents have a sunburst finish. Applied hour markers ensure easy readability of the time, and the elegant hands are filled with just the right amount of luminescent material to be readable in the dark.
A rotating city disc around the dial is controlled via the crown, not a separate button. This function allows simultaneous tracking of time in 24 major time zones of the world. Once the "universal time" or second time zone is set, it won't need adjustment during travel. Simply change the local time by moving the hour hand forward or backward. It moves independently of the minute hand and the "true seconds" second hand, preventing any loss of accuracy.
Emotions Through Movement
Besides the attractive world map and numerous exotic cities on the rotating disc, the watch has another feature, literally marked in the watch world: the second hand with "true seconds" (deadbeat seconds). JLC renamed this function to sound less grim, but "deadbeat seconds" still sounds better to me. All this is provided by the automatic in-house caliber 772, visible through the transparent case back. It's clearly not a simplified clone of an ETA or something similar. The movement's finishing is at a very high level, and the 18-carat gold rotor with ceramic ball bearings is a true work of art.
The most interesting and unique detail of caliber 772 is the Gyrolab balance. It's not a regular round balance but a shape resembling the TIE spaceship from "Star Wars." The Gyrolab balance first appeared in 2007 in the experimental Master Compressor Extreme Lab 1 watch. The Geophysic collection became the first series release with this balance. The idea of a semi-circular balance is to reduce size and improve aerodynamics for optimized energy consumption and increased accuracy. According to JLC, the balance's performance is improved by 15% compared to traditional ones.
How the Watch Fits on the Wrist
The case diameter is 41.6 mm, thickness is 11.84 mm, and the lug-to-lug length is 49.5 mm. Depending on the wrist size, the watch can be considered medium or large. On my 18 cm circumference wrist, they appear as M/L, and this size suits me. The watch can be worn discreetly, slightly hiding under a cuff, but with short or rolled-up sleeves, they become a noticeable accessory. Attention is drawn not only to the dial but also to the highly polished lugs, contrasting with the matte surface of the case sides. Initially, the watch came with a black alligator leather strap and a folding clasp, but I recently changed it to a denim-blue goat leather strap. This made the watch slightly more sporty but did not surpass the original image - restrained yet timeless.
What Makes These Watches the Best in My Collection
Appearance, heritage, complications, finishing, and brand perception are the main reasons why the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time is the best watch I've ever owned. The second reason is the story of my journey from admiring them in 2015 to purchasing them ten years later - a true example of watch karma. The third is that every time I wear these watches, I fall in love with them all over again. They fit perfectly on the wrist in every way. I am proud to own them, wear them, and enjoy them. And I don't think I'll ever tire of looking at the world on my wrist and dreaming of new travels.
What are the best watches you've owned? Share in the comments.