Despite the classic blue dial losing some popularity due to the emergence of other colors (mainly green and pink), it remains the most popular choice for any watch.
This, of course, excludes black and white, since they are essentially not colors, my point still stands. Among a vast array of options, we tried to pick the 11 best blue dials - from shade and texture to valuable offerings and craftsmanship.
anOrdain Model 1 Blue Fumé
Often, when looking at the best of the best, it's easy to overlook value offerings. This is a bit of a shame because you might miss gems like the Model 1 from anOrdain. The enamel “fumé” dial was a serendipitous find, resulting from the deformation of a silver dial blank, which was polished to reveal a stunning gradient and grainy pattern.
This meticulous process is described here, which is even more impressive considering it's all done in-house at anOrdain's workshop in Glasgow, rightfully earning the brand a place on our list of the best British watches.
- Price: £2,595
Grand Seiko Iwao Sea of Clouds SBGP017
No list of the best dials would be complete without a Grand Seiko watch. Despite the brand's frankly ludicrous number of new releases, it still manages to create beautiful models. To be completely honest, many of them could take the top spot here - any of the Omiwatari, Kishun, or kirazuri Sōkō models are worthy contenders.
However, only one truly caught my eye - the SBGP017, aptly nicknamed “Sea of Clouds.” Thin blue brushstrokes reflect in the polished, faceted indices that resemble ingots, and the blued seconds hand and applied GS logo are the icing on the cake. As if the watch needed to be any cooler, it's also equipped with a display case back showcasing the decoration of the Grand Seiko-level quartz movement.
- Price: $3,800 (retail, sold out), ~ $4,500 (secondary market)
Czapek Promenade Goutte d’Eau
Czapek has been releasing iterations of its popular Antarctique model for some time, but the debut of the Promenade collection at Watches & Wonders 2024 was marked by the stunning Goutte d’Eau model. The water drop effect that gave it its name is achieved by layering translucent grand feu enamel over a three-dimensional base until it becomes flat. Czapek openly discussed their work with Donzé Cadrans, the dial manufacturer, showing how important it can be to attract the best of the best.
The watch was released in a limited edition of 100 pieces, and by the time of writing, it was already sold out. This is unsurprising, given that the rest of the watch is also magnificent, but the dial is undoubtedly the star of the show.
- Price: $20,600
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Blue Copper
Let me preface this choice by saying that this is not just an aventurine glass dial. As good as they are, they are quite common, so why did the Saxonia Blue Copper make this list? Instead of using aventurine, Lange creates the dial from goldstone (also a type of glass), coating a solid silver blank with a mixture of silica and copper oxide, causing the copper to crystallize before the glass fully hardens. The slimness of the 39mm x 6.2mm white gold case is ensured by the L093.1 manual-winding movement, made in warm German silver and adorned with Lange's signature engraving on the balance cock.
- Price: $22,000 (retail, discontinued), ~ $20,000 (secondary market)
Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Platinum
Despite the brand's leading position in the global watch market, Rolex is not usually known for its groundbreaking dials. This doesn't mean Rolex dials are bad, but even when they try cloisonné enamel, we get it in Day-Date watches adorned with emojis and inspirational messages. If that's your thing, don't worry, but at Watches & Wonders 2024, we finally got a more traditional attempt at a high-class dial from the Crown.
The Perpetual 1908 model was well-received, albeit somewhat underrated, but Rolex took a step forward with a platinum case and a guilloché rice grain dial in their signature ice blue color. While I'm sure Rolex won't start producing handmade dials anytime soon, at least this 1908 model is proof that there's still an old-school soul left in the majestic halls of the corporate giant.
- Price: $30,900
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel
The Streamliner from Moser has always been an unconventional choice for a sports watch with an integrated bracelet, so why not embellish it with a grand feu enamel dial? A similarly textured dial was previously available on the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar model, but there's something about this combination of a sporty waterproof case and a traditional enamel dial that appeals to me. What I like most about this model is that Moser is so confident in its appearance that it didn't put a logo on the dial, a trademark the brand has been known for over the years. Such confidence (or audacity) is rare in watchmaking, and it's a breath of fresh air.
- Price: 29,900 CHF
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu
In a list of the best, it's hard to pick just one, but for me, it's these. If you can believe it, the Chronomètre Bleu from F.P. Journe was a rarity just a few years ago until the artificial scarcity of other, more popular watches led to a sharp increase in demand for them. Now, the Chronomètre Bleu is a bluish-gray tantalum case, a massive 18-carat gold movement, and the best blue dial of its kind.
Numerous layers of blue lacquer are mirror-polished and applied by hand, and depending on the lighting, they appear black or electric blue. The off-center small seconds hand is adorned with azure, showcasing the full spectrum of blue in its sunny execution.
- Price: $37,400
Credor Eichi II Ruri
The Eichi II Ruri model, released in honor of Seiko's 140th anniversary, is a special edition of Credor's minimalist masterpiece. Its dial is made of fragile porcelain covered with blue lacquer, which gives it an otherworldly glow at the edges and in the central gear, while in other places, it creates an immersive depth. The logo and indices are hand-painted and appear to be suspended above the dial.
And here comes the important and oft-used phrase - you need to see this watch in person. Of course, even though the exquisite Spring Drive movement was made in the Micro Artist Studio, almost 100,000 Australian dollars for a watch just for time is a ridiculous amount, without a doubt. However... it seems I've been charmed by this glowing blue wonder enough to think it makes sense.
- Price: £50,000
Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon
From a long list of iconic sports watches with integrated bracelets and blue dials, choosing the Alpine Eagle as one of them is a bold choice. The swirling Aletsch blue texture, inspired by the pattern of an eagle's iris, captivates the imagination in any light. My favorite is the dial of the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon from Chopard, where the pattern emanates from the tourbillon cage rather than the central gear.
- Price: $112,000
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium
The swirling iris of the Alpine Eagle is impressive, but the original model with an incredible blue dial was the Vacheron Constantin Overseas. Although the popularity of this model was secured by the variants designed exclusively for timekeeping, it is the elite specimens that allow the most depth of the blue lacquer to shine. This is especially true for the Overseas Tourbillon model in a titanium case. Vacheron has done a tremendous job polishing the metal, which is notoriously difficult to work with, but its inherent dark gray hue further accentuates the blue highlights of the dial. Price on request.