Another Friday, another top 5! This week, we continue our journey through the universe of pre-owned gold Rolex watches.
Following last week's list, which highlighted some incredible gold Rolex sports watches, it's time to focus on the Datejust model. If you ask most watch enthusiasts about their favorite Datejusts, their answers will likely be either stainless steel or two-tone. But have you ever considered a Datejust in all-yellow gold? Perhaps the gold Datejust isn't part of the current Rolex collection, but that's why delving into past models becomes even more interesting. We've found five yellow gold Datejust examples from the past that showcase the brilliance of this model. Let's begin.
In the previous article dedicated to full-gold Rolex sports watches, it was shown that the Geneva-based brand has been producing gold tool watches for several decades. They occupy a respectable place in the brand's collection due to their historical relevance and visual brilliance. The same can be said for the all-gold Rolex Datejust models. Before the Day-Date appeared, the Datejust was the brand's flagship model. Therefore, in the early stages of production, it was only available in precious metals. Thus, these watches carry historical significance once again. Currently, the Datejust is not produced in a fully gold case. You can purchase it in stainless steel or various Rolesor versions. But in the past, The Crown created some stunning gold versions, and this week we want to talk about the best pre-owned gold Datejusts.
Rolex Datejust ref. 6105
Let's start this list with a true vintage example. The Rolex Datejust ref. 6105 was produced from 1950 to 1953. This famous model perfectly embodies vintage Datejusts of the first generations. The watch features a 36mm yellow gold case with a thin fluted bezel.
If you prefer a smooth bezel, then ref. 6104 is what you need. It looks slightly sportier than the 6105 model but is much rarer, meaning it's more expensive. You can also choose the rose gold ref. 6105 if you prefer that tone, but they are also rarer than the yellow gold models.
Inside the case is the caliber A296. This automatic movement operates at a frequency of 18,000 per hour, has 18 jewels, and a 38-hour power reserve. Rolex released several dial options, including white, black, silver with diamonds, and gold with diamonds. Additionally, the text on the dials varied quite significantly. Other standout elements include Alpha hands and baton indices. They give the watch a vintage Rolex style.
While you can purchase the Datejust 6105 on a bracelet, you will have to pay a hefty sum. Additionally, the quality of 1950s bracelets does not meet today's standards, so wearing a watch on a period-appropriate bracelet is a risky endeavor. However, if you buy the watch on a beautiful leather strap, you will have one of the most stylish vintage Rolex watches ever created. Current prices start at around 9,000 euros and go up to 25,000 euros for a bracelet watch.
Rolex Datejust ref. 1601/8
Let's move on to another classic Datejust reference, widely loved by Rolex fans. The Datejust ref. 1601 is one of the most iconic models in this line. It's the archetypal Datejust, and I would be on the hunt for one.
But how about the same classic benchmark in a gold execution with a gold dial? The ref. 1601/8 elevates the “wow” factor to 11. The iconic 36mm case, fluted bezel, box-shaped plexiglass, and pie-pan dial all create the absolute beauty of yellow gold watches.
The Datejust 1601 was introduced in 1959 and remained in production until 1977. During its production time, Rolex used several movements. The first was the caliber 1565, which operated at 18,000 vibrations per hour and had a 42-hour power reserve. In 1965, Rolex updated it to the caliber 1575, which had a higher frequency of 19,800 vibrations per hour. Then, in 1972, Rolex updated the movement again, adding a hacking feature but not changing the caliber number.
The ref. 1601 initially featured Alpha hands, but then switched to baton hands, which the brand still uses today. There are several excellent color and material options, including the famous stone dials. Prices for the Datejust 1601/8 on a leather strap start at around 6,500 euros and gradually rise to 11,000 euros. If you want a gold bracelet with a regular dial, prices for pre-owned watches start at around 11,000 euros and reach up to 23,000 euros. Particularly in the lower part of this spectrum, you get an absolute classic in gold for a quite reasonable sum.
Rolex Datejust ref. 16018
In 1977, Rolex introduced the first five-digit Datejust model, which remained in production until 1988. The all-gold model ref. 16018 brought several important updates. Firstly, Rolex introduced the new caliber 3035 with a quickset date function. This new movement operated at a frequency of 28,800 per hour and provided a 50-hour power reserve. When buying vintage Datejusts, it's worth noting the quickset date function. It adds practicality that many watch enthusiasts prefer.
At the same time, the aesthetics changed. Rolex moved from step dials, known as pie-pan dials, to flat dials. While the number of different dial options is simply mind-boggling, the vintage feel of pie-pan dials disappeared with the introduction of the five-digit Datejusts. Additionally, the gold models received sapphire crystals, while the stainless steel and two-tone models retained plexiglass.
The Rolex Datejust ref. 16018 can be purchased starting from €8K on a leather strap. On a gold bracelet, prices start around 14,000 euros and go up to 25,000 euros for a watch in the best condition. If you want a more exotic dial, expect prices to start at 25,000 euros and double. For me, these watches are all about the black-and-gold combination.
Rolex Datejust ref. 16238
In 1988, the Datejust model was updated once again. The most significant change was the new caliber 3135, which was an optimized version of the previous caliber 3035. The new movement featured a full balance bridge, a larger balance wheel, and an increased number of jewels, from 27 to 31.
The stainless steel and two-tone versions were equipped with sapphire crystals, but as I explained earlier, the gold models of the previous generation already had them. Thanks to the updated movement, the Datejust became technically modern watches that remain relevant today. Rolex used the caliber 3135 for three decades before replacing it in 2019.
Regarding dials, there are several stunning options to choose from. In the photos here, you see a white porcelain dial, which looks very striking in combination with yellow gold. But there are also more exotic dials that look stunning and don't require large expenses. A mother-of-pearl dial with Roman numerals is a great example. Although I understand it's an acquired taste, I find it looks simply stunning in combination with the gold case and Jubilee bracelet. Additionally, it is much more restrained than the Jubilee dial adorned with diamonds.
On the pre-owned market, the price for a Datejust 16238 on a leather strap is around 9,000 euros. Prices for watches on a gold bracelet start at 14,000 euros and go up to 20,000 euros for regular dials. Exotic dials, as expected, cost much more.
Rolex Datejust ref. 1600/8
The last watch in this Top 5 is not a continuation of the ref. 16238. The six-digit models that replaced the previous generation look much bulkier and flashier. They lack the classic charm of gold Datejusts, so they won't close the list. As you may have noticed, so far we've only chosen models with a fluted bezel.
Most of us at WatchTested prefer the classic look of the Datejust. But what about the stunning Datejust ref.1600/8 with a smooth bezel? This classic model looks stunning in a gold case, and the bezel gives it a slightly sporty look. Additionally, such smooth bezel models are not as common, making them even more special.
Except for the bezel, the watch is technically similar to the ref. 1601/8 model I mentioned earlier. You get the same 36mm yellow gold case, pie-pan dial, and the same movement that powered its fluted bezel counterpart. But the aesthetics change dramatically thanks to the smooth bezel.
Photos of this gold version only confirm this thought. Since the gold Datejust 1600/8 is rare, expect higher prices than the 1601/8 model. Most pre-owned examples come on a bracelet, and prices range from 14,000 to 25,000 euros for a well-maintained piece. Considering the rarity and stunning look of gold watches, it's an excellent choice.
Final Thoughts on the Top Five Pre-Owned Gold Rolex Datejusts
The Datejust ref. 1600 is a great way to conclude this list of all-gold Rolex Datejust models. These are remarkable options if you prefer gold Datejusts over the Day-Date. While most of us think of stainless steel or a combination of steel and gold when it comes to the Datejust, the full-gold options are at least as interesting to explore. They may be less obvious choices when it comes to picking gold Rolex watches, but I hope this article shows the many amazing options that convey their brilliance. Let us know in our Telegram channel which of these options you like best, and see you next week for another edition of this series!