Another Top 5! After a short break last week, we return to publishing articles dedicated to outstanding pre-owned watches.
The inspiration for this week's list came from some of the most talked-about watches at the Watches and Wonders exhibition. Are the new gold Rolex Deepsea watches an excessive display of luxury? Many wondered if a full gold version of Rolex's best professional diving watch was truly necessary. This sparked a lively discussion about gold Rolex sports watches in general. We were inspired by this and decided to pick our favorite pre-owned gold Rolex sports watches for this week's list.
Many watch enthusiasts agreed that Rolex did not showcase its best at Watches and Wonders this year. The yellow gold Deepsea was a hot topic, especially regarding this year's new releases from The Crown. This new yellow gold Deepsea model weighs just over 320 grams, and it can hardly be called discreet. Many enthusiasts were sure that Rolex missed the mark with this gold version of its most professional diving tool. Nevertheless, some people like gold Rolex sports watches, and this discussion prompted us to look at some of the brand's fully gold sports models from the past. We have selected five of our favorite pre-owned models that demonstrate the brilliance of gold Rolex sports watches.
Rolex Submariner Date ref. 1680/8
We begin our selection of pre-owned watches with the Rolex Submariner Date ref. 1680/8. The 1680 model was not only the first Submariner with a date function but also the first version made in gold. The ref. 1680 debuted in 1969 and remained in production until 1979.
During that decade, people could choose between a black and a blue dial version. The watch came with the characteristic "nipple" dial, familiar to most watch enthusiasts from the GMT-Master model. But the "nipple" dial also works on these vintage Subs. It's simple, and seeing a watch with such a dial is simply magnificent.
The watch represents a gold version of the stainless steel model 1680. Thus, it features a 40 mm yellow gold case with a gold bezel and a gold Oyster bracelet. Inside the case, Rolex used its caliber 1575. The movement operates at a frequency of 19,800 per hour and has a 48-hour power reserve. For the later model ref. 16808, Rolex switched to caliber 3035, which increased the movement frequency to 28,800 per hour. The successor's aesthetics remained mostly unchanged: the nipple dial and the same available colors.
If you're looking for a more affordable version, the ref. 16808 is an excellent option, priced at under 30,000 euros. We chose the ref. 1680/8 because it was the first. Expect prices to start around 35,000 euros and rise quickly. But for this amount, you will get the best-looking gold diving watch Rolex has ever created.
Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675/8
You probably anticipated this. The Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II have always been offered in yellow gold. Even the first model ref. 6542 was available in gold for only two short years, in 1958 and 1959. While we could choose that model, the GMT-Master ref. 1675 served as the basis for the watches most people know today. The aluminum insert replaced the predecessor's Bakelite bezel insert, and the movement received an update.
As many of you know, the GMT-Master ref. 1675 was one of Rolex's longest-running models, produced from 1959 to 1980. The gold model ref. 1675/8 was available in two versions, both with a nipple dial. The first has a black dial and bezel insert, while the second - the one you see in the photo - has a glossy brown dial and brown bezel insert. Both models look stunning on a gold Jubilee bracelet, which is perfect for the GMT-Master.
But since the brown color is unique to the GMT-Master, we would choose it. However, I wouldn't complain about having the black version on my wrist, which is also stunning. Rolex used several calibers during the production of ref. 1675. It started with the caliber 1565, operating at 18,000 per hour, and was later replaced by the updated caliber 1575, operating at 19,800 per hour. In the early 70s, Rolex updated the latter caliber with a seconds hand without changing the reference number.
The fully gold model ref. 1675/8 and its successor ref. 16758 are among the most beautiful GMT-Master models released by Rolex. Expect prices for good examples of the former to start at 30,000 euros and rise quickly. In comparison, the fully gold model ref. 16578 starts at around €25K, and you can get it in excellent condition for less than €40K. It's not exactly pocket change, but the watch is impressive.
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16528
Is it possible to make such a list and not mention the Daytona? If there ever were Rolex sports watches in full gold that were generally "accepted" even by the most purist tool watch fans, it would be this famous chronograph. But with so many options, which one to choose? We picked the most affordable option - the five-digit Daytona.
WatchTested has a great love for five-digit Rolex watches, and this time we are no exception. The watches belong to the so-called Zenith Daytona series, which debuted in 1988 and remained in production until 2000, when it was replaced by the 116500 series with the first in-house chronograph movement.
The full yellow-gold Daytona model was available with various dial options. The main colors were white with gold accents, gold with black accents, and black with gold accents, which we chose. Inside the 40 mm case, Rolex used the caliber 4030.
The movement was based on Zenith's El Primero 400 and modified by the Geneva brand to Rolex standards. I like that the overall aesthetic consists only of gold and black with a tiny hint of red in the "Daytona" name above the sub-dial at the 6 o'clock position. The Daytona ref. 16528 is a statement piece that can be acquired for around 35,000 euros and easily go up to 75,000 euros for versions with rare dials.
Rolex Submariner Date ref. 16618
Another five-digit choice - the Rolex Submariner Date ref. 16618. These watches were most often released with a blue dial and bezel or a black dial and bezel. But don't be fooled by the image you see. The watches featured in these photographs have a stunning and rare lapis lazuli dial, which adds much more depth and style to this particular version.
This was one of the few exotic dials Rolex also introduced for this reference. But let's focus on the essential details. As Robert-Jan explained, the Submariner Date ref. 16618 debuted in the late 1980s and remained in production until around 2008, when it was replaced by the ref. 116618 model.
Inside the 40 mm case, Rolex equipped the watch with its famous caliber 3135. The movement operates at 28,800 per hour and has a 48-hour power reserve. I usually choose the black version over the blue, but for this model, I can make an exception. Besides, it's the more affordable option (with the standard dial, that is).
The ref. 16618 model is an excellent choice for those looking for a relatively affordable gold-cased Submariner. Prices on the pre-owned market start at around 20,000 euros, with many options going up to 30,000 euros. For this amount, you won't get the star version with lapis lazuli, but you will be able to acquire a stunning fully gold Submariner with a blue dial.
Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 116718
Our final model is a bit unusual in terms of appearance, but it's a significant model in Rolex's history. This fully gold anniversary 50th GMT-Master II ref. 116718 was the first Rolex watch with a Cerachrom bezel. With a green dial and a black bezel insert with gold numerals, the color combination looks quite exotic, but I quite like it. Besides, it doesn't shine too brightly, like many modern Rolex watches with ceramic bezel inserts.
The ref. 116718 model also became the first Rolex sports model with a "super case," which later appeared in other Rolex models. The 40 mm case had thicker lugs, a wider bezel, and a thicker overall profile, leading to a greater wrist presence.
Inside the case, Rolex equipped the watch with the caliber 3186. The GMT movement operates at 28,800 per hour, has a 50-hour power reserve, and offers the convenience of an independently adjustable 12-hour hand.
Rolex fans have been sleeping on this anniversary 50th GMT model for quite some time, but the current price ranges between 33,000 and 55,000 euros, which is a significant amount. However, for this money, you'll get a special GMT-Master II that still offers glimpses of vintage charm while marking the transition to modern Rolex sports watches.
Concluding Thoughts on This Week's Pre-Owned Watches
That's it - our list of five magnificent gold-cased Rolex sports watches. This selection not only showcases some stunning examples (especially the diving watches) but also shows that the brand has a long history of offering sports models in precious metals. Therefore, don't be surprised that the brand made the Deepsea model fully gold. Of course, it's a completely different beast than the gold Sub or GMT-Master. But sometimes, it's not that complicated.
Over time, Rolex has created gold versions of many of its sports watches, as well as bi-metal versions of watches we never thought we'd see in two-tone, like the Explorer and Sea-Dweller. Whether you like it or not, there's always room for more gold in the Rolex history books. While I'm not a fan of the fully gold Deepsea, I like this idea. Let us know in our Telegram channel which of these models you like best, and see you next week in the next installment of this series!