The release of the Bulgari Aluminio model in 1998 challenged traditional watchmaking technologies with an unusual combination of black rubber and lightweight aluminum.
With its graphic black and white design, the Aluminio gained popularity as an attractive entry-level sports watch with an Italian soul. Marking its long-awaited return in 2020, Bulgari released the Aluminium model with an automatic movement, enhanced water resistance of 100 meters, and the signature black and white color scheme that made these watches so recognizable and popular. Today, Bulgari uses the Aluminium color palette in three equally attractive unisex versions of models with GMT, date, and chronograph.
Although today the combination of rubber and aluminum may not seem too avant-garde, in 1998 it was unconventional. Of course, Italian founder of Hublot Carlo Crocco shocked Baselworld in 1980 with his gold watches featuring a black rubber strap, but Bulgari went further and made the case out of aluminum - a lightweight metal usually only used for bezels.
In addition to the unconventional materials, the Aluminio model was distinguished by the fact that the Bulgari brand name was embossed on the rubber bezel not once, but twice, making it an integral part of the design. The double mention of the brand name on the gold bezel, originally appearing on the Bvlgari Bvlgari watches of 1977, the first men's watches produced industrially, was a nod to the tradition of inscribing the names of Roman emperors on coins. As part of a marketing campaign, an image of the Bulgari Aluminio was placed on the upper deck of an Alitalia Boeing 747, reflecting Italian design bravado.
All three new products share a 40 mm case diameter, 100 m water resistance, DLC-coated crowns, and titanium case backs, as well as the iconic rubber bezel with double branding. The exceptionally lightweight aluminum case is made from an aluminum alloy (6082) used in the aerospace industry, which is 40% lighter than titanium and 75% lighter than steel. The watches also feature a common tapered rubber strap with articulated aluminum links in the center and the brand name embossed on the first two links near the lugs.
Aluminium Black GMT
True to the brand that advertised these watches on a Boeing 747, a GMT model appeared in the Aluminium collection in 2021. The first model, a practical complication for travelers, was released in a blue-red livery, and a year later the GMT Amerigo Vespucci appeared in black and yellow. The new Black GMT model returns to the original black and white color scheme of the Aluminio with red accents.
The thin 40-millimeter case is 9.70 mm high and weighs just 68.6 g. Exceptional clarity of readings is achieved through the black-red 24-hour GMT scale on the dial, marked by a central hand with a red luminescent tip. The red area of the GMT scale is color-coded for intuitive reading and indicates daytime hours, while the black part indicates nighttime.
Black applied indices, Arabic numerals 12 and 6, as well as the tips of the hour and minute hands are also coated with Super-LumiNova luminescent compound. The central seconds hand with a red syringe-shaped tip and round red counterweight matches the red area of the GMT bezel. Convenience is also not forgotten: setting the local time and the second time zone (home time) is done via the crown. The date window is located at the 3 o'clock position.
Quick Facts: 40 mm x 9.70 mm - aluminum case with black rubber bezel, titanium case back and crown with black DLC coating - water resistance 100 m - white dial with black-red 24-hour GMT scale, indicated by a red luminescent hand with an arrow - indices and hands treated with Super-LumiNova - date at 3 o'clock - caliber B192 (based on Sellita SW 330) automatic, 50-hour power reserve - black rubber strap with aluminum links and clasp - ref. 103963 - EUR 4,100
Aluminium Chronograph Smeraldo
Preparing for the upcoming summer months, the limited edition Aluminium Chronograph Smeraldo from Bulgari, consisting of 800 pieces, features an alluring color palette inspired by the Mediterranean hues. As in last year's Capri series, the rubber bezel and strap have abandoned the collection's signature black color and acquired a vibrant green shade. The dial has a gradient from a soft light green tone at the top to a rich turquoise-green at the bottom.
The three sub-dials - a 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock, a 30-minute counter at 9 o'clock, and a running seconds hand at 3 o'clock - are executed in green with white markers and hands. For legibility, white blocks above the dark green indices and the tips of the dark green hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova luminescent compound, and the silver central chronograph hand has a white tip. As always, the inclusion of a date window at 4:30 remains controversial. The black titanium case back with DLC coating is adorned with a wind rose. As an entry-level offering, the Aluminium Chronograph is equipped with the Bulgari B130 caliber, an automatic movement based on ETA 2894 with a 42-hour power reserve.
Quick Facts: 40 mm - aluminum case with dark green rubber bezel, titanium case back, pushers, and crown with black DLC coating - water resistance 100 m - gradient green dial with dark green sub-dials, indices, hour and minute hands, SLN on hour and minute hands and indices, date window at 4:30 - automatic caliber B130 (based on ETA 2894) with 42-hour power reserve - dark green rubber strap with aluminum links and clasp - ref. 104076 - limited edition of 800 pieces - EUR 5,500
Aluminium White Automatic
The classic Aluminium model with a timekeeping mechanism and date in a completely white case draws attention. This monochromatic version is a refreshing unisex variant of the Solotempo Aluminium model. The watches are released in a limited edition of 1,000 pieces and possess all the key features of the Aluminium collection.
The white rubber bezel and aluminum case resonate with the matte white dial featuring silver rhodium-plated markers, numerals 12 and 6, hour and minute hands. For improved legibility, small rectangular indices above the hour markers and the tips of the hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova luminescent compound. The only splash of color is the central seconds hand with a red tip and round red counterweight. The crown and case back are made of titanium but do not have black DLC coating. The date window is located at the 3 o'clock position. The automatic caliber B77 based on ETA 2892 provides a 42-hour power reserve.
Quick Facts: 40 mm - aluminum case with white rubber bezel, titanium case back and crown - water resistance 100 m - white matte dial with rhodium-plated indices, hour markers, and hands, Super-LumiNova on indices, hour and minute hands, date window at 3 o'clock - white rubber strap with aluminum links and clasp - ref. 103964 - limited edition of 1,000 pieces - EUR 3,450
For more information, visit bulgari.com.