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The Disciplined Innovations of Citizen Watches

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Accutron Bulova Citizen Omega Seiko

Key Takeaways

  • Citizen is known for blending traditional watchmaking with electronics.
  • Their vintage watches are functional and historically significant.
  • Models like Citizen Parawater and Fugu are notable for their unique designs.

Are you thinking about acquiring a pair of vintage Citizen watches? Great idea. Here are some tips on the matter!

When it comes to vintage watches, Citizen is not always the first brand that comes to mind. Perhaps one of the many brands under Citizen's umbrella (I have a soft spot for Bulova and, by association, Accutron), but not necessarily Citizen itself.

Nevertheless, vintage Citizen watches represent many of the most significant innovations in the watch world, especially over the last 100 years.

Despite not always grabbing the spotlight, Citizen has always possessed undeniable horological talent. Moreover, few brands embody the remarkable overlap between traditional watchmaking and electronics as Citizen does.

Why Vintage Citizen Watches?

Firstly, their history is noteworthy.

Essentially, Citizen acquired a watch research institute in Japan. However, it involved both Swiss and Japanese investors (and talent).

Thus, when it came to innovations and technology, Citizen always balanced between the old and the new world. This is quite a rare phenomenon in an industry that mainly clings to old methods.

Since the quartz revolution, most brands have fallen into one of three categories: Swiss brands, brands mimicking Swiss brands, and those heavily inclined towards electronics and digital technology.

Citizen dipped its hands into all these pots. As a result, they formed a watch company that for a long time didn't have its own "brand". Recently, this has changed, thanks to partnerships with Disney and so on.

But this is what makes their vintage pieces so special. They are functional, speak volumes about their time, and are not clouded by marketing. All these qualities are crucial when it comes to vintage watches. They make you look like a vintage watch connoisseur.

Additionally, they are incredibly well-made. No matter how old they are, many of them will still look great on your wrist.

Citizen Innovations in the Past (Found in Their Vintage Models)

I think even Citizen newcomers are aware of their Eco-Drive technology. Meanwhile, after acquiring Bulova and Accutron, they also developed a high-frequency quartz movement, which is impressive and quite unusual.

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Admittedly, the latter is not quite vintage. I just thought it was worth mentioning because the acquisition of Bulova in 2008 was a major achievement for Citizen on two levels. Firstly, it allowed them to preserve this American brand. Secondly, it made them the largest watch manufacturer in the world.

Mid-20th Century Citizen Innovations

While other brands worried about which celebrity to hire for magazine ads, Citizen was doing the following:

In 1959, Citizen caught up with Swiss heavy-hitters. They released the first fully waterproof wristwatch in Japan. This watch gave birth to the Promaster Marine line, which remains popular to this day.

Then, in 1982, Citizen developed the most pressure-resistant watch in the world at that time.

Back in 1970, the company was ahead again, creating the first titanium wristwatch. Those who wanted durable yet lightweight and hypoallergenic watches rejoiced.

Citizen Atomic Timekeeping

Atomic timekeeping is often associated with Citizen, as they offered the first multi-band watch equipped with it in 1993.

Citizen multi-band atomic watch from 1993

The atomic chronometer is radio-controlled and synchronized with radio clocks in your current location.

It's about universal accuracy.

Citizen Chronomaster and Eco-Drive

Speaking of accuracy, have you heard of the Chronomaster line? They released it in 1967. It uses a high-frequency quartz crystal with an accuracy of five seconds over the entire year.

And, of course, in 1976, Citizen invented Eco-Drive technology. There are many reasons why I love their Eco-Drive watches, but two really stand out.

They're incredibly convenient. Any light source powers the watch.

You never have to change the battery, which in the long run is a concern for people who prefer quartz watches. Light is converted into energy, and the excess is stored in an auxiliary power cell. This ensures a constant supply of energy.

Additionally, it's a testament to Citizen's eco-friendly approach to business and innovation. Long before "green" watches became a trend, this brand was at the forefront. They have always cared about efficient and productive ecology in their technologies.

And if you look at old Citizen watches, you can see this history in action.

Notable Old Citizen Watches

Here are some cool models from Citizen's past. Of course, not all of them are easily accessible, but they are all worth knowing about.

Citizen Parawater

Citizen Parawater is Japan's first waterproof wristwatch. I love them for being sporty yet elegant with a nearly deco-style aesthetic. They remind me that the preceding Seamasters were quite dressy.

The difference is that Omega is a big player in the vintage world. Therefore, people treat these precursors almost as if they are passé. Vintage collectors seem to want their old watches to have a preserved design language.

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Parawater doesn't rely on modern diving; it is historical and not the most expensive vintage example. Check eBay if you're interested!

Citizen Fugu

Fugu is a Citizen legend with a left-sided crown. It was released in 1989 as a response to the Seiko SKX007. The watch is named after the Japanese pufferfish because the bezel resembles it.

A funny story with the name. Initially, Fugu was a fan-given nickname. However, Citizen officially adopted it and even engraved a pufferfish image on the watch's case back.

Of course, all vintage Fugus are officially certified to remain reliable in water, maintaining shock and magnetic resistance.

They are generally easy to find if you just search on Chrono24 and other secondary markets.

Citizen 7400

Before the Skyhawk A-T, Citizen released the 7400 model, the first-ever radio-controlled watch. Remember, Citizen is still a leader in atomic timekeeping.

Citizen 7400 model, first radio-controlled watch

These watches have been called various things: innovative, ugly, beautiful, unnecessary, and absolutely essential - and that's what makes them legendary.

With a printed dial and central cell, there was truly nothing like it on the market.

Citizen Chronomaster 1967

As mentioned, the Chronomaster model increased accuracy. It used a quartz crystal that provided accuracy within five seconds a year.

But besides that, I think the watch's design is quintessentially Citizen. This is a watchmaker that cares about technology and innovation, not trends. Yet they can create a sophisticated and timeless appearance.

That's how I feel about the versatile Chronomasters of 1967. And if you browse eBay's listings, you'll find that this model can be equipped with a variety of movements.

1976 Citizen Solar Quartz Crystron Watch

As for Eco-Drive, it all started with this watch. Crystron is the first solar-powered quartz watch with an analog dial.

Citizen addressed the main complaints people had with the otherwise "superior" quartz mechanism and fixed them. Yes, back then, quartz was considered better than mechanical due to its accuracy. Thanks to the power of light, Citizen got rid of the battery replacement issue.

And there's something beta-version-like about the visible elements on the dial. It's retrofuturism but with the brand's history in mind.

As unique as these watches are, they're not too hard to find on eBay. I've noticed there's usually at least one listing, and the price can range from $500 to $1,000.

Citizen Challenge Timer 8110 "Bullhead"

In recent years, these watches have returned to public consciousness because Brad Pitt wore them in the film "Once Upon a Time in Hollywood".

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You can spot these watches from a mile away thanks to the barrel-shaped case and two buttons at the top. That's where the name Bullhead comes from, though some also call them Mickey Mouse.

The watch appeared in the 1970s, and today it is as unique as it was then. It's a silhouette that no one has tried to replicate yet. Moreover, it's fun to fiddle with thanks to the top buttons.

Citizen Diamond Flake

When the Diamond Flake watches were released in 1962, they became the thinnest in Japan. And now, at 38 millimeters, it's an excellent choice for us slender folks.

These stainless steel watches are truly stylish, suitable for both casual and dress wear. It's a brilliant design, but by no means flashy.

Whether it's gold or silver appliqués, the sunburst dial adds a silky sheen. Naturally, the watches look vintage but also simple and relevant.

Unfortunately, it's quite a rare find. So if you like these watches and see them for sale, just go for it.

FAQs

I know. That's a lot to take in! So, here are some brief answers to common questions regarding vintage Citizen watches.

Are Vintage Citizen Watches Good?

Yes, vintage Citizen watches are excellent. When you can find them, they are not always very expensive and are well-made. Many of the best models represent innovations in the watch industry, offering unique designs that are not as "obvious" as vintage models from huge Swiss brands.

How to Determine the Date of Vintage Citizen Watches?

To determine the date of vintage Citizen watches, look at the serial number on the back of the case. The first digit indicates the year, and the next two indicate the month.

How to Identify Vintage Citizen Watches?

If a watch is over 20 years old, it is vintage. To determine the date, use the serial number on the back of the watch case. Of course, you can also use the internet. Just Google the serial number, and you're sure to find an answer.

Conclusion

I think of Citizen as that guy on the team who is very important but doesn't care about being in the spotlight. He's more concerned with getting the job done at the highest level.

Today, Citizen watches are so straightforward and are a testament to their time, although at the same time, they also tend to be timeless.

And that's one of the best features of their vintage models. You can wear them today, but you'll always have something to say about what their design represents.

Are you a fan of vintage Citizen watches? If so, have you thought about buying such a watch? Would you after reading this article? Tell us about it on Telegram!