Hublot is one of the most controversial watch brands among enthusiasts.
The brand thrives but not always among connoisseurs. It faces a lot of criticism, sometimes deservedly. I must admit that for a long time, I paid no attention to this brand. But now I feel like I'm coming back. There are several Hublot watches that tickle my imagination, and I think it's time to acknowledge it.
This article is not entirely about me. I will use my taste as a starting point, but the goal is to understand why Hublot is so criticized, and more precisely, how relevant this is in 2024. Let's dive in!
So, what primarily causes disputes among enthusiasts?
Hublot is a relatively young brand, founded in the late 70s by the Italian Carlo Crocco. Enthusiasts are usually very critical of young brands, but in the case of Hublot, that's not the main issue. The first disagreements arose from the name and design of the first watches. Hublot means "porthole" in French, and the first Hublot watches had a bezel inspired by a porthole. Considering that the Royal Oak model was only a couple of years older, this was not considered original.
Then the brand made life difficult for itself by offering features in expensive watches that some would consider low-grade. For example, rubber straps were an absolute novelty in the luxury sphere when Hublot introduced them on gold watches. Today it is common, but in 1980 it was not. Today the brand is still attacked for using Sellita-based calibers in expensive watches. Could Hublot apply its own capabilities to all calibers? Perhaps. Could the brand set more competitive prices for Sellita-based watches? Possibly. But Hublot does not, and this makes it vulnerable to criticism.
Under the leadership of Jean-Claude Biver, the brand's designs became more extravagant. According to some, they still remained too derivative. In their view, the Big Bang model was too similar to the Royal Oak Offshore. In any case, many collectors considered Hublot watches as watches for the nouveau riche, more fashion status symbols than true horological craftsmanship.
Does Hublot touch upon sensitive topics too openly?
I think some of the issues we usually have with Hublot are related to the fact that these watches make explicit what we do not want to admit. For example, the brand released an almost endless series of limited editions. In 2009, Jean-Claude Biver stated in an interview with The Economist: "People want exclusivity, so you have to constantly keep the buyer hungry and frustrated."
It is hard to argue with this statement, and most brands operate this way. At the same time, when someone says it out loud, it seems contrived and condescending. As watch geeks, we understand well that we are lured in this way. But Biver did not gain points for Hublot by proudly stating that this is his tactic. If watches are rare because only two craftsmen are qualified enough to create them, it seems sincere. Of course, often this is not the case, so one could argue that Hublot is simply transparent about what its competitors are not.
The same goes for pricing. Prices for luxury watches from major brands have long not been tied to physical cost. However, Hublot started this game quite early. Fans believed that Hublot watches were expensive just for the sake of it. However, lately, most brands are playing catch-up. It seems to me that in many ways, Hublot is just doing what most other brands are doing, while pretending otherwise. And since this exposes us, the enthusiasts, it irritates us.
Hublot has serious technical prowess
Alright, let's move on to why, in my opinion, some of these factors are starting to weigh less on the modern market. For example, Hublot today is a real manufacturer. R.J. visited and was impressed by the experience and technical skill the brand has gathered under one roof.
Currently, Hublot produces impressive in-house calibers with high levels of finishing and interesting architecture. The brand also does not shy away from complex constructions made from materials like sapphire, carbon fiber, and ceramic, although, I must admit, I don't know how much of this is done entirely in-house. The old idea that these are generic calibers placed in overpriced and cheap-looking cases simply isn't true.
Of course, there are still Hublot watches based on Sellita in fairly high price segments, but now you at least have a choice. In this sense, there is no significant difference between many competing brands. I'm not trying to justify everything. As much as I like the new Big Bang Integrated Time Only Titanium 38mm, its price of 13,600 euros - how should I say it? - is on the steep side. However, I have the same experience with most other brands, so there's no reason to single out Hublot.
Holding a few of Hublot's latest creations
As I often say, watches are only partly represented by facts and figures. In the end, much of what makes or breaks a watch is not in the technical specifications. A design comes to life or doesn't when you hold the watch in your hands. And the sophistication of the workmanship and finish often needs to be experienced in real life. For me, handling a watch with closed eyes is as valuable as carefully examining it through a loupe.
I have tested several of Hublot's latest watches this way and was more pleased than I expected. For example, the Big Bang Unico Dark Green Ceramic is a desirable object in hand. Pressing the chronograph buttons brings satisfaction and instills confidence. The soft, warm ceramic material and sharp lines combine very attractively. The intricate design keeps your gaze fixed.
I appreciated this theme in many other models I had the chance to try. I usually prefer simple, classic, basic watches. However, Hublots seem to have touched another part of my brain, evoking sensations I hadn't experienced from watches before. They catch attention, loudly and right in your face. It's not something I would want in my everyday watch, but I can imagine myself straying from time to time… What's happening to me?!
A unique identity
All this discussion about derivative portholes happened long before I was born, but I got the gist of it. However, I don't think it's applicable going forward. Hublot today has a very strong identity. There is a very specific genre and style of watch for which Hublot is the go-to brand.
Several details in modern Hublot watches tell me a lot. For instance, the case construction of the aforementioned Unico model is quite cool. The top of the mid-case transitions neatly into the strap. And right in the middle is a large button for detaching the strap. It's both functional, meaning very ergonomic to use, and aesthetically original.
So, am I now a believer? To some extent, yes. I'm not yet lining up to place an order, but I'm definitely keeping an eye on the brand, not least because it seems to be connected to the new luxury market that more traditional brands seem to want to enter. In this sense, Hublot is a very interesting canary in the coal mine, so to speak.
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