The late 90s and early 2000s are sometimes seen as a low point in watch design, yet this period produced several magnificent watch models.
Today, the pre-owned watch market offers many splendid examples and neo-vintage luxury for a modest price.
If you don't mind occasional scratches or excessive polishing, the value of watches like the Zenith El Primero, Cartier Pasha, and many others is rising these days for two reasons. The craftsmanship sometimes surpasses modern offerings, and the sizes seem to perfectly match our retro tastes. Call them "neo-vintage" or "millennial cool," here are five excellent examples from major brands.
Girard-Perregaux F300
The Girard-Perregaux brand often oscillates between trends and offers stunning value, especially if you look at its diverse catalog of 2000s sports watches. In this generous book of wristwatches, you will find models released between 1994-2004, when the brand was an official partner of Ferrari. I'll admit, I'm not a big fan of automotive collaborations in watches, as they tend to be too obvious. This applies to some GP models, including those with bright red or yellow dials featuring the famous prancing horse. I would advise steering clear of the most obvious Ferrari models.
Because, like a red Ferrari cap or windbreaker, they reveal you as a mere car geek (at best), and actual Ferrari owners are unlikely to wear them. But the series of three-handers and F300 chronographs are wonderful. They boast a fine case size of 38 mm × 45 mm and a subtle Ferrari logo on the case back. The chronograph shown in these images is an excellent example, featuring a hefty steel bracelet with short links, polished and brushed finish. The best part is the price. On Chrono24, they are regularly available for under €3,000, as evidenced by this search. Steel watches are the stars of this story, but in the same search on C24, you'll find F300s in pure 18-carat gold for the improbable sum of €5,800. Impressive.
Cartier Pasha
The Cartier Pasha watch is the most polarizing shape in this article, and it's back on my wishlist. Our copywriter Brandon knows this too well, making me read his story with a tinge of jealousy. His GMT Power Reserve ref. 2388 usually sells in the €3,500-5,000 range, but you can find some closer to €3,000. However, they are likely to be quite worn compared to Brandon's beautiful silver-dialed gem. And while I love Brandon's complex GMT, I have a soft spot for the simple 35mm ref. 2324 with a black dial.
In 2024, these are very favorable deals, and the price for good examples can drop to €2,000. I have nothing against European sellers, but for my money, Japanese dealers and private sellers offer the best value these days. There are several dial layout options, and while I'm not thrilled with the date at 4:30 under the peculiar cyclops, this compact Cartier with an ETA movement is my favorite. In my view, it should have a square dial within a circle, like Brandon's GMT. Even at these low prices, there is plenty to choose from, so pick the best, regularly serviced ones, with a box. If you're lucky, you can get them for less than €1,800.
Bvlgari Diagono
If you like the quirky shape of Cartier but aren't taken by its round ostentation, consider the Bvlgari Diagono. This family of tool watches is almost forgotten, and many models have a superb 38mm size common in the early 2000s. The craziest are the 200-meter Scuba Chronograph versions with classic large "12" and "6" numerals and twin registers. I like their quirky style, and they offer serious value - you can easily find models priced under €2,500. But remember, most of them are already 20-25 years old, so any mention of regular servicing is a big bonus.
If you prefer cleaner lines and a more elegant style, look out for the three-hand models with the "Bvlgari Bvlgari" bezel. Seek out the best of them, and you'll be amazed at the prices of these 35mm glamorous pieces. The two-tone model shown above features a massive 18-carat bezel and is offered from Japan for €1,900. Precious metal watches in the style of this year's Bvlgari Bvlgari return for under €2,000? If that's not a steal, I don't know what is.
Breitling Navitimer Aviastar
Breitling has a rich catalog, and for under €3,000, your choice will be vast, with many hidden gems among them. I would opt for the timeless Navitimer in a rare version, like the Aviastar from 1996-1998. This was before the influx of trinkets and massive 48mm Super Avengers. The Aviastar dial looks quite simple for a Navitimer, eschewing the indecipherable sliderule functionality and maintaining a monochrome style.
An Italian Chrono24 listing offers one for €2,950, which is quite low for a rare Navi version. However, the beautiful model in the photos above is available from Japan for a slightly lower price (not including import taxes, of course), and the patina on the lume is simply luxurious. The Aviastar probably has the strangest bezel of all Navis. It features a raised insert framing the box-style mineral glass, yet the watch retains the familiar diagonal-link bracelet we know. Moreover, the watch has a modest 41mm case with clean markers and Arabic numerals on a matte black dial. Many dislike the standout numbers, mainly known from Cosmonaute watches, but weren't they the first Swiss watches in space? I'm all for functionality. After all, these are some of the cleanest tool watches of all time.
Credor Phoenix
As another luxury brand of Seiko, Credor remains an intriguing choice and an eccentric alternative to Grand Seiko. The collection features neo-vintage models not very well-known outside Japan, and you will be surprised by some of these offerings, which may not capture the hearts of Western collectors. The Phoenix Chronograph 6S78-0A10 (or GCB997) was in my possession last year, but I sold it as I also have the three-hand version. It was one of my big regrets, and there's a high chance I'll buy another this year. The watches, released around 2000, have a clear design, a beautifully finished black lacquer dial, and possess character. The rounded indices with hands match the oddly-shaped tube, and the recessed registers are admirable.
At just over 40mm wide, it's a great alternative to the Speedy and much cheaper than the Daytona. The glossy white chronograph indicators match the sharp logo text on the dial, and what about the movement? Inside this heavier-than-Daytona piece of refined steel is a gold-plated heart. The 6S78 caliber with 34 jewels, equipped with a column wheel, was Seiko's first return to an automatic chronograph movement. Oh, and for the geeks: through a convoluted history, this caliber also underpins the TAG Heuer 1887 caliber, but that's for another article. The Phoenix Chronograph is a superbly underrated piece of Japanese craftsmanship for €2,000-3,000, and it's a bargain.
My dear readers, what do you think? Have I gone too far into quirkiness, or are you scared by the cost of maintaining a 30-year-old movement? Take your time to choose the best, and everything will be fine. Let me know on the WatchTested Telegram channel about these neo-vintage luxury watches or if you have any personal additions.