Grand Seiko is celebrating two consecutive anniversaries. In March 2020, Grand Seiko turned 60, and in January 2021, Seiko marked its 140th founding anniversary by Kintaro Hattori. Whether it's an anniversary year or not, this Grand Seiko watch is symbolic on many levels. From the intriguing dial reminiscent of tree rings to the exquisite finishing and new high-frequency caliber, the watch embodies the Grand Seiko philosophy to perfection. Limited to 140 pieces, this superb platinum model is now available at Grand Seiko boutiques and retail stores worldwide.
Grand Seiko Philosophy
In December 1960, the dream of Seiko's small team of top watchmakers to create the best watches materialized. Appropriately named Grand Seiko, the 44GS model of 1967 embodied nine design elements (Series 9) that would define the future direction of Grand Seiko models. This includes the use of reflections or "shine quality" in the form of mirror-polished elements that reflect even the smallest rays of light. Another fundamental aesthetic principle is the subtle interplay of light and shadow, which can be appreciated in the ever-changing spectacle created by Japanese Shoji screens, where light penetrates through rice paper and shadows are cast when light hits the opaque surface of wooden frames.
Japanese people revere nature and celebrate its beauty with seasonal festivals. Instead of our arbitrary Western division into four seasons, Japanese culture recognizes the subtle transitions of nature. It divides the seasons into 24 small seasons or sekki, which inspired the four GS Elegance GMT models. The Grand Seiko Shizukuishi workshop is located in Iwate Prefecture, where Mount Iwate, one of Japan's most beautiful mountains, and vast tracts of untouched nature are found. The production is intentionally located in a natural environment to motivate the takumi (craftsmen). Reconstructed in 2020 by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, the Shizukuishi workshop is made of wood and glass to blend with the surrounding landscape.
Inspired by the white birch forests in this region, Grand Seiko introduced the Hi-Beat SLGH005 "White Birch" model, presented earlier this year. It captivated us so much that it was featured not once, but three times on WatchTested.
The watch we are reviewing today was also introduced earlier this year and sits alongside the "White Birch" model in the Heritage collection. However, unlike the steel "White Birch," the SLGH007 is a more luxurious limited edition made of 950 platinum.
The first impression of the watch is power. These watches definitely catch the eye with their rich dark dial, black crocodile leather strap, and powerful platinum case. However, once you take the watch in your hands and appreciate the details and finishing, a second, more intriguing personality emerges.
Solid Case
Platinum, which is denser and harder than gold, is known to be difficult to work with (it wears out ordinary tools) and takes three times longer to produce than gold. However, once formed, it is much more durable and corrosion-resistant than gold. Another advantage of platinum is that when scratched, it does not lose volume and can be polished again. The difficulties associated with its production and its high strength make platinum cases more expensive than gold ones.
The design of the SLGH007 model corresponds to the updates introduced in 2020, which adhere to the rules laid down in 1967 in the 44GS model, but at the same time update and modernize the case. Although the case size increased from 39.5 mm to 40 mm, the height decreased from 13 mm to 11.7 mm, a welcome innovation that emphasizes the elegance of the watch.
This anniversary model is well-proportioned but not oversized, and features a water resistance of 100 meters. Thanks to the slightly curved profile, thin strap, and heavy platinum case, the watch sits firmly and comfortably on the wrist. The case finish is exceptional. The surface of the bezel and lugs is adorned with fine hairline finishing (vertical brushing). In contrast, the sides of the lugs and bezel are treated with the famous distortion-free Zaratsu mirror polishing developed by Grand Seiko. The contrast between the matte vertical finishing and the bright mirror polishing gives the case dynamism and highlights the unique bright white tone of platinum. Remarkably, the case attracts and reflects light, which is very much in keeping with the GS theme of light and shadows.
Cedar Tree Style
The main feature of the SLGH007 model is the dial inspired by cedar tree rings. Tree rings indicate the age of the tree, and depending on the width or narrowness of the rings, they indicate fluctuations in the tree's growth. Light-colored rings represent the tree growing in spring and early summer, while dark rings form in late summer and autumn. Again, from a distance, the dial may appear black, but on closer inspection, an intriguing swirling pattern of lighter and darker areas is revealed, mimicking cedar tree rings. When the light hits, one can appreciate the almost organic texture of the dial with subtle changes in depth recreating the dark and light shades of wood texture.
The impressive attention to detail can be seen on the hands and applied markers made of white gold. Thick hour and minute hands with polished facets and matte centers, as well as prominent white gold markers and date frame, replicate the case finish. The bright mirror polishing is not just aesthetic; it attracts light and aids legibility since there are no lume traces on the dial. As is traditional for Grand Seiko, the star at the "6 o'clock" position indicates that the indices and date frame are made of pure gold.
Hi-Beat Caliber 9SA5
In honor of Grand Seiko's 60th anniversary in 2020, the brand introduced a new high-frequency mechanical caliber, forming the basis for an entirely new generation of GS watches. Representing a revolutionary achievement akin to the first 9S caliber of 1998 – the base movement ensuring the operation of all Grand Seiko collection watches (except Spring Drive) to date – the new caliber 9SA5 maintains a high beat frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour/5 Hz but increases the power reserve and adds an extremely rare dual impulse escapement. The Seiko developer team was tasked with ensuring the same level of stable accuracy as the high-frequency 9Sxx family while increasing the power reserve from 55 to 80 hours and reducing the movement size. To achieve this, three fundamental designs were overhauled using a combination of precision manufacturing tools, time-honed skills of the watchmakers at Grand Seiko's Shizukuishi studio, and innovative technical solutions.
The dual impulse escapement allows energy to be transmitted directly from the star-shaped escape wheel to the balance. To withstand increased balance vibration without reducing energy transmission efficiency, GS manufactured new caliber components using micro-electromechanical systems (MEMS) technology. A new optimized coil with a unique curved shape and a new free-sprung balance without a regulator and with four screws for precise inertia adjustment were also created. Double barrels provide a reliable 80-hour power reserve, and a new date mechanism using a movable date finger made with MEMS technology ensures a quick date change. Despite the expanded functionality, the 9SA5 caliber is 15% thinner than other GS high-beat movements. The accuracy is between +5 to -3 seconds per day.
Decorative details of the mechanism testify to the deft hand of the artists at the Shizukuishi watch studio and are more embossed than mechanisms of past years. The gentle curve of the bridges is designed to evoke the silhouette of Mount Iwate, visible from the windows of the watch workshop. The oscillating mechanism is also more open than before, allowing a better view of the mechanism. The stripes adorning the bridges look less "industrial" and give the 9SA5 caliber a Haute Horlogerie finish, along with blued screws and polished bevels.
Thoughts
The sense of quality is evident in everything: from the meticulous finishing of the case and dial to the exceptional hi-beat caliber. With the combination of a heavy, durable platinum case and an intriguing dark dial, the anniversary series represents a watch with a commanding character. Unfortunately, compared to the Silver Birch model, its price tag is also commanding.
Availability and Price
The Grand Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition watch comes on a black crocodile leather strap with a triple folding clasp with push-button release. The watch is limited to 140 pieces and is now available at Grand Seiko boutiques and GS retailers worldwide. The estimated price in Europe is 60,000 euros.
For more information, please visit the Grand Seiko website.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – GRAND SEIKO HERITAGE 140 ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION SLGH007
Case: 40 mm diameter x 11.7 mm height x 47 mm lug-to-lug – 950 platinum case, Zaratsu mirror polishing and vertical brushing – box-shaped sapphire crystal with AR coating, sapphire case back – 100 meters water resistance
Dial: Dark dial inspired by tree ring design – faceted, beveled hands – applied indices and date frame in white gold
Movement: In-house caliber 9SA5 – automatic – 47 jewels – dual impulse escapement and free-sprung balance Grand Seiko – 36,000 vibrations per hour/5 Hz – 80-hour power reserve – accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day – hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Strap: Black crocodile – triple folding clasp with push-button release
Availability: Limited to 140 pieces – available now at Grand Seiko boutiques and GS retailers worldwide
Price: 60,000 euros (estimated price in Europe)