Charisma is a complex thing in watch design.
Watches that don't work in certain color schemes can be transformed with a simple set of new colors and materials, and the line between charming unity and discordant clutter is often very narrow. The sporty, integrated line of Maurice Lacroix Aikon is a striking example of this principle in action. Its “greatest hits” in integrated sports watch design are hard to distinguish from competitors, but when the brand allows this design to step out of the shadow of its influences, this fusion of familiar elements shines brightly. The new limited edition Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Bronze is perhaps as charismatic as ever, with a warm, distinctive combination of color, material, and (potential) patina that immediately sets it apart.
Although the 42mm bronze case of the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Bronze is certainly large by modern standards, it looks remarkable for several reasons. First and foremost is the integrated lug design - they are not only very short but also have a pronounced, sharp angle. Combined with the sculpted, tapering integrated strap, this allows the case to hug smaller wrists easily without being overbearing. Furthermore, the balanced 11mm case thickness helps the main case sit low and wide on the wrist, further reducing the sense of bulk. On the other hand, Maurice Lacroix's approach to finishing the Aikon Automatic Bronze makes it significantly more appealing than its stainless steel counterparts. Not all bronze alloys are created equal, and the warm, bright, slightly orange hue of the bronze used by Maurice Lacroix gives almost the same tone and shine as a freshly minted penny on the wrist.
The charm of bronze lies in its evolution and patination, and the sharp edges, narrow facets, and six raised architectural “claws” of the bezel should provide many intriguing focal points for a darker contrasting patina or pale green as the watch naturally ages. Maurice Lacroix emphasizes this potential for unique aging by completely forgoing polished surfaces in this case - even traditionally polished elements, such as the flat side bevels of the case and the edges of the wide relief bezel, are executed with a clear, deep linear matte finish, along with the broader surfaces of the case. The only noticeable areas of the case that don't have a matte finish are the bezel's “claws,” which instead feature a brushed finish.
It cannot be said that this case does not stand out on the wrist - thanks to the sharply curved geometry of the case, at least one surface catches the light from almost any angle - but the nature of these highlights changes. It has become less decorative and more purposeful, which is well-suited to the long history of bronze use in maritime contexts and ancient associations with armor and weapons. The brand has equipped the Aikon Automatic Bronze with a sapphire crystal case back and provided the watch with an impressive 200-meter water resistance. Although this is an impressively sporty solution that should allow the Aikon Automatic Bronze to serve as versatile “vacation” watches, it also leads to one of the watch's biggest potential shortcomings - more on that later.
When using a warm, bright case palette like fresh bronze, the natural inclination is to choose a darker complement for the dial, and the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Bronze demonstrates how effective such a combination can be. The dial's gradient surface features a deep, rich coffee-brown color at the edge, transitioning to a warm light cocoa tone at the center.
Combined with the clous de Paris texture and a subtle, hidden sunburst finish, the dial acquires many individual traits depending on lighting conditions. Maurice Lacroix highlights the dial's surface with fully polished rose gold indices and slender stick hands. This tone-on-tone look is impressively rich and characterful on the wrist, but the combination of these colors makes the standard white date indicator at the “3 o'clock” position seem even more out of place. A brown date wheel or a no-date layout would have elevated this design to another level, although the current layout remains deeply appealing.
Maurice Lacroix powers the Aikon Automatic Bronze with the ML 115 automatic movement, based on Sellita. Given the familiar foundations, the general characteristics of the ML 115 should be recognizable to most enthusiasts, including a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour and a somewhat outdated 38-hour power reserve. On the other hand, for such a price, the ML 115 is decently decorated: blued screws, dense perlage on the bridges, and an impressively complex custom rotor featuring arabesques and linear brushing, matte finishing, polished surfaces and angles, and fine skeletonized cutouts.
The individuality of integrated watches largely depends on their bracelet, and it is rare to see integrated watches on a strap that have more individuality than their bracelet counterparts. However, the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Bronze is one of those rare integrated watches. The integrated bracelet design of the Aikon is, shall we say, well-known to watch enthusiasts due to its close resemblance to the classic Royal Oak bracelet, and by separating the watch design from the bracelet, it greatly contributes to the identity of the Aikon line. Not to mention, such a watch on a fully bronze bracelet would likely be both bulky and highly conspicuous. Instead, Maurice Lacroix equips the watch with a deeply impressive integrated strap made of distressed leather. The tapering shape matches the case design well, and the combination of deep, mottled medium-brown color with contrasting white stitching complements the case and dial colors beautifully.
The strap not only looks and feels aged with years of adventures right out of the box but over time, this worn, nuanced look should blend even better with the case as it develops patina. Although this combination is attractive and well-suited to the overall design, the leather strap has one significant drawback: water resistance. The watch itself can withstand 200 meters, but this strap will degrade long before prolonged immersion. The strap features a quick-release system, but it presents an unusual problem.
Due to the peculiarities of the Aikon's quick-release system, removing the strap takes the central segment of the integrated lugs with it. All additional straps by Maurice Lacroix are designed with the standard stainless steel case in mind, so the only way to fit a waterproof rubber strap or bracelet on the Aikon Automatic Bronze is to accept the mismatched stainless steel segment alongside the bronze case. This is a minor issue, but given the limited edition of the bronze case, it is unlikely to be resolved.
Making a watch charismatic is no easy feat in design, but the right combination of colors, materials, and straps can give a watch design a depth of character unmatched by the rest of the lineup. The limited edition Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Bronze is a striking example of this principle at work, with a warm, distinctive appearance and feel that significantly surpasses all other models in the Aikon line. Only 888 pieces of the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Bronze will be produced, and the watch is now available through official dealers.
At the time of publication, the MSRP for this watch is $2,650 USD. More information can be found on the brand's website.