For some reason, watches with the jump hour complication always intrigue me.
The fact that they don't necessarily have to have traditional hands inspires designers to come up with new solutions. They devise original ways to display time. Sometimes it's just a small hour window and an additional minute hand. But watches can have a more complex dial layout, for example, with a retrograde minute and date indicator. In this edition of Pre-Owned Spotlight, I will look at some good examples of jump hour watches.
Inspiration struck me while writing an article on recent releases by Chanel and Chopard. The Quattro Spirit 25 and Superleggera are both delightful examples of how more classic and modern jump hour watches can look. But there were even more interesting releases. Take a look, for example, at how Balázs tested the SpaceOne Jumping Hour Destro Forged Carbon. Last year, Fears also released a very elegant burgundy version of the Brunswick watch with a Jump-Hour function. These fairly recent releases made me curious to see what jump hour watches can be found on the pre-owned market. Let's take a look.
Bell & Ross 123 Heure Sautante
To start, I would like to talk about a few options I came across from Bell & Ross. It is certainly not the first brand that comes to mind when it comes to watches with interesting complications. However, the brand has released or used to release quite a few jump hour watches. Admittedly, some models turn out slightly better than others. When using this complication, you always have to consider that the minute hand may at some point obscure the view of the hour window. It seems that the designers at Bell & Ross did not consider this when working on the 123 Heure Sautante model.
The large blued minute hand seems to cover the hour window just at the magical moment when the hour changes. However, that doesn't mean I don't like this watch. Adding a bold power reserve indicator at the 6 o'clock position gives these watches a fair amount of individuality. And in a 38-millimeter matte platinum case, they look almost like field watches. I certainly wouldn't mind wearing these on a well-worn NATO strap. By the way, €6,900 doesn't seem like a lot of money for such a watch, right? But if you're looking for something more elegant, then perhaps the WW1 model will suit your taste.
Bell & Ross released the WW1 Heure Sautante watch in a platinum or rose gold case around 2012. Each case had a specific dial configuration. I prefer the minimalist gray variant with a lot of open space. But the version with the white dial also looks beautiful, thanks to its style, which is more reminiscent of Bauhaus. Currently, finding these watches for sale is quite challenging.
Gérald Genta Models with Jumping Hours
Next, we move on to the more famous watch designer Gérald Genta and his jump hour watches. You have probably seen their Mickey Mouse versions. However, I prefer the cleaner versions because they remind me of the dashboards of classic cars.
Take a look, for instance, at this model 3634, released in the late 90s. It has large, fun numbers filled with good old tritium along the retrograde minute hand. The numbers have a nice patina that goes well with the blued minute hand, and the hour is displayed in a large window at the 6 o'clock position. The window itself and its frame are slightly curved, and the numbers on the hour disc are very bold. Another plus - the diameter of the watch is only 36 mm. Moreover, the price of €7,500 also doesn't seem too unreasonable to me.
If you want to add a retrograde date, then the reference 3734 might suit your taste. The hour window is located at the top in the usual 12 o'clock position, and the date complication is in the lower half of the dial. Of these two watches, I prefer the first version, simply because it is a bit bolder, and the tritium gives it extra appeal. However, the price of €8,270 is a good price for a watch with a double retrograde and a jump hour complication.
Breguet Does It Better
The last watch is in a different league when it comes to price, but I think it's worth it. Since I bought my Breguet Classique 5907, I haven't stopped keeping an eye on other interesting models. What I like about this model 5907 is how clean it looks with a simple dial layout and hand guilloché. When I came across this model 3620, I was pleasantly surprised again. It may even be slightly cleaner than my 5907, as it only has a central minute hand and an hour window at the 12 o'clock position.
I was also surprised to learn that the width of these platinum watches is only 36 mm, and the thickness is 7.5 mm. This is a fantastic size for a Breguet watch with an automatic movement. Of course, the dial is beautifully finished, and the hours are printed in red to make them stand out even more. As the cherry on top, the crown is adorned with a blue sapphire, which matches the thermally blued minute hand and alligator leather strap. As I said, you'll have to dig a little into your pocket, as these watches will cost you $25,500.
So there you have it - some interesting pre-owned jump hour watches. What do you think of these options, and do you know of other good examples on the pre-owned market? Share your thoughts in our Telegram channel.