Sometimes the work of a watch reviewer is illuminated by the appearance of extravagant models.
You should have seen my surprise when three models of Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Cinquanta arrived on my desk. I knew they were coming, but I was still amazed. These watches exhibit bold Italian design unlike anything else on the market today. As a design enthusiast, I was delighted to take these three models for a detailed examination.
History of the Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Series
Let's start with the basics. As mentioned, Labormatic is the first series of watches from the Gagà Laboratorio brand. We were provided with three models of the series, each with its own name. The first is Champagne, combining warm cream and golden hues.
The second model is Cinquanta, with a soft mint-green color. And finally, Bauhaus - a strict black version with red details. All watches come with rubber straps matching the watch color. Additionally, Gagà Laboratorio offers options with leather straps for a different visual and tactile experience. I particularly enjoyed wearing the watches on the rubber straps - it is a real pleasure.
Case Design and Dimensions
All three models feature an elegantly sculpted case with a diameter of 42 mm, a thickness of 13.3 mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 51 mm. However, the numbers should not be misleading. As seen in the photos, the stainless steel case looks completely different.
Although Labormatic is indeed impressive in size, on the wrist they feel different - this is where the magic of Mo Coppoletta's design comes into play. The Champagne model stands out with its golden side panels, smoothly transitioning into the lugs, making it the most extravagant of the three.
Unique Time Display Method
The feature of the Labormatic Cinquanta case harmonizes with the unique dial. The time display consists of a digital hour disc located at the 12 o'clock position, and a smaller minute ring with a pointer on the Bauhaus and Champagne models. In the Cinquanta model, the minute indicator is represented by a small blurred window that moves along a circular track in the center of the dial. Inside this window is a red arrow indicating the current minute.
This differs from the Champagne and Bauhaus models, where a central minute hand in the shape of a spade is used. The Champagne and Bauhaus models also feature raised radial markers every five minutes, while the Cinquanta uses printed numerals at five-minute intervals.
The outer part of the minute ring is framed by polished steel sectors forming a circle, interrupted by the digital hour display. Although the design is not overly complex, the contrast of textures and colors between the main dial and the sector frames adds depth. Another interesting detail is the absence of a second hand. Instead, a small rotating disc with the brand logo in the center indicates the mechanism's operation.
The crown is located at the 12 o'clock position - an unusual but memorable solution reminiscent of pocket watches. The push/pull function crown is easy to extract and operate. This placement is convenient as it is close to the hour and minute indicators. Additionally, as Dave noted, the crown does not interfere with the perception of the unique case shape.
La Joux-Perret Movement in Labormatic
All Labormatic models are equipped with the automatic La Joux-Perret G100 caliber. This movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a power reserve of up to 68 hours. The mechanism is visible through the sapphire crystal case back.
Gagà Laboratorio equipped the rotor of the movement with custom design featuring the brand logo, highlighting the uniqueness of the watches. Another distinctive element is the Art Deco-style engraving on the case back, which sets the watches apart from typical models with standard engravings. This approach adds signature details to the watches that exude character and individuality.
Wearing the Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Series
Upon first wearing any of the Labormatic models, it becomes apparent that the case design fits perfectly on the wrist. This creates a feeling that dry size figures do not convey. Firstly, the rubber straps with branded clasps provide comfort and perfectly balance the watch on the wrist. Additionally, the straps can be easily changed thanks to quick-release pins.
Secondly, the curved lugs neatly embrace the wrist, and in reality, the 51 mm lug-to-lug distance is not felt. Despite their impressive presence, the watches do not feel bulky. The curved lugs and double-curved sapphire crystal visually make the case thinner than its 13.3 mm thickness suggests.
I have often said on Onewatch that for me today, the fit of the watch on the wrist is more important than its size. Initially, I was skeptical of these models, but after wearing the Champagne, I became a fan of the Labormatic series.
Choosing a Favorite Model from the Three
After getting used to the time-reading method, I turned my attention to the sculptural nature of the case and the quality of the finish. The polished surfaces emphasize the elegance of the design. Although the watches look extravagant due to the wide lugs and Art Deco-style details, I enjoyed wearing them.
Out of the three models, I preferred the lighter colors. The black Bauhaus with contrasting red accents seems the most restrained and less expressive. The extravagant design is better revealed in the colored versions.
The Champagne model with golden details appealed to me, although the golden side panels sometimes seemed excessive. However, I gave the most preference to the Cinquanta model with its mint-green dial and strap. This color gives the watch a summer mood, but with the right outfit combination, the watch is suitable for year-round wear.
The price of each Labormatic model is 4,000 Swiss francs (excluding VAT), so the choice depends not on budget, but on personal preference.
Final Conclusions on the Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Series
Overall, testing the three Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic models was a refreshing experience. These watches stand out against everything I've tried on recently. They reflect the unique vision of Ruben Tomella and Mo Coppoletta, who aim to create watches that combine outstanding Italian design with Swiss precision and high-quality craftsmanship.
As a result, a series of watches emerged that immediately draw attention for various reasons, which pleases me. In a world dominated by safe designs and archive-inspired models, Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic offers something new and exciting. These watches may not be for everyone, but I want to commend the creators for the boldness and character they have invested in these models.
These watches bring a smile to your face, and that doesn't happen often. Every time I wore them, they lifted my spirits - an important quality.