Yema is perhaps one of the most renowned French watch companies with a rich history. Younger French brands like Baltic have recently gained much attention, but Yema traces its roots back to 1948, releasing several historic watches. The Superman model is the company's jewel, debuting in 1963 and becoming a favorite among French Air Force pilots and professional divers. It originally featured 300-meter water resistance and a unique bezel locking mechanism. Yema draws on the past by releasing two new Superman Heritage GMT diving watch models: one with the popular Pepsi (blue and red) bezel, and another with a more restrained blue-gray color scheme. Let's take a closer look at these two new editions.
YEMA SUPERMAN
Based in Morteau, France, Yema has certainly made its mark in the overcrowded industry. Formula 1 champion Mario Andretti wore the Yema Rallygraf chronograph, and in 1982, Jean-Loup Chrétien took the first French watch, the Yema Spationaute 1, into space. A special model was also used by French explorer Jean-Louis Étienne for the first solo journey across the North Pole. The Superman model is the brand's most iconic (and perhaps the most iconic French watch), and in recent years, Yema has consistently revived it. Vintage-style watches are very popular these days, and most brands are tapping into this trend.
The recent example of the Heritage Superman reissue came in 2018, with an almost exact replica of the 1970 Yema model (Reference 53.00.16). The brand's current portfolio includes a robust collection of Superman models, including bronze models and my favorite Yema watch, the recently released Superman Skin Diver Limited Edition. The Heritage collection watches have the most direct connection to the past, and all Superman models share several common features. The external bezel locking mechanism at the “3 o'clock” position is the most notable, almost resembling an extended date window. Another feature is the 300-meter water resistance, both consistent with the original 1963 model.
Besides the Superman, Yema has several specially designed historic models, including the Flygraf chronograph for pilots, the Rallygraf chronograph for racing (again, a favorite of Mario Andretti), and the Yachtingraf, a chronograph for regattas. These four collections debuted in the 1960s and 1970s and remind me conceptually of iconic Omega models - the Speedmaster, Seamaster, and Railmaster, but are, of course, less known. All these Yema watches have been revived in the Heritage collection in recent years. Since 1948, Yema has changed hands several times and even belonged to Seiko from 1988 to 2004, but in 2008 it was finally acquired by the French watch group Montres Ambre. Much of the current portfolio is equipped with third-party mechanical or quartz movements, but Yema also has its own French-made calibers, including the YEMA3000 caliber in this latest pair of Superman Heritage GMT.
CLASSIC CASE AND DESIGN
The matte stainless steel case measures 39mm in diameter, matching the original Superman watches of decades past. It's nice to see the brand staying true to this very wearable size. The domed sapphire crystal, 2.6mm thick, provides retro distortions at an angle and really helps give the vintage aesthetic a modern strength. The bidirectional rotating bezel has an aluminum insert and comes in two options - classic blue/red Pepsi and blue/gray - and serves as both a diving bezel and a 24-hour indicator.
At the “3 o'clock” position is the aforementioned external bezel locking mechanism, which has been a recognizable feature of the Superman since 1963. Depending on how the bezel is turned, it usually displays a number like a second date window. When the crown is screwed in, it locks onto the serrated edge of the bezel. The screw-down crown is fully protected and features the Yema logo, and water resistance is 300 meters, also characteristic of both the original and all modern Superman models. The case back is hefty, and both models come with a matching steel bracelet and necessary diver's extension.
DIVER DIAL WITH GMT EXTRAS
The Superman Heritage line first got a GMT hand in 2019, and it's really nice to see it here again. This additional hand is black with a red triangular tip filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9, which kind of floats at the edge when the hand blends with the background. The dial (background) is glossy black with indices painted with Super-LumiNova BGW9. The markers are slightly smaller than on other Superman GMT models (like the Worldtime GMT Coke), but they are perfectly visible for a diver.
The polished steel minute and hour hands feature Super-LumiNova inserts, and the second hand has a “shovel” tip designed by the brand in the 1970s. The black date window is located at the “3 o'clock” position. The combination of the GMT complication and the 24-hour bezel allows tracking of three time zones simultaneously. Very useful for frequent travelers. The bezel's two-tone color also allows for quick day/night determination. Like the GMT Coke model, this model is part of the Superman Worldtime series, with the inscription applied in red above the “6 o'clock” mark.
FRENCH CALIBER
Unlike the ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200 used in 3-hand models, the latest pair of Superman Heritage GMT features Yema's in-house automatic caliber YEMA3000. It has 29 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz), and a 42-hour power reserve. This is an evolution of Yema's first in-house caliber, the MBP1000, released in 2011. It is regulated in four positions with an average accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per day (maximum deviation of +/- 25 seconds per day). Accuracy tests have been confirmed by the Centre Technique Horloger Français, an independent French institution. Functions include central hours, minutes, seconds hand, GMT, and date. The accuracy and power reserve are improved compared to the ETA 2824-2, and the movement enhances the brand's independence.
A GREAT ALTERNATIVE TO SWISS MODELS
We usually don't think of France in terms of watchmaking, despite its long horological history and proximity to Switzerland. Pequignet is rare today, but Yema clearly leads with its historic name and decades of caliber production. Compared to ETA or Sellita counterparts, the YEMA3000 is an impressive achievement with the GMT complication to boot. The specifications are better, albeit slightly, and Yema's ability to design and manufacture its own movements places it in a league above other French brands.
The case diameter, domed glass mimicking retro plexiglass, and classic external bezel lock showcase Yema's more than 50-year lineage (for lack of a better term). Forget all that for a moment, and you're still looking at an affordable, classic automatic dive/GMT with the ever-popular blue/red Pepsi option. And it's really great to have a bona fide French movement instead of a Swiss or Japanese one.
AVAILABILITY AND PRICE
The Superman Heritage GMT watches are sold at a price of 1,190 euros, which is an excellent price for a diving watch with GMT, especially from a brand that largely defines French watchmaking. These watches definitely don't copy anything, using design language from Yema's own historic portfolio. If you are a traveler and/or diver looking for something highly functional, well-designed, and not made in Switzerland, be sure to check out what Yema has to offer.
For more information and to pre-order, visit the Yema website.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – YEMA SUPERMAN HERITAGE GMT
Case: 39.5mm diameter – stainless steel (matte) – domed sapphire crystal 2.6mm – steel case back – bidirectional 24-hour bezel with aluminum insert in blue/red (Pepsi) or blue/gray – Yema external bezel lock at “3 o'clock” – screw-down crown with full protection and embossed logo – water resistance 300m.
Dial: glossy black with indices painted with Super-LumiNova BGW9 – polished steel minute and hour hands with Super-LumiNova coating – second hand has Yema's “shovel” tip with lume – black GMT hand with red triangular tip with lume – black date window at 3 o'clock
Movement: YEMA3000 manufacture GMT caliber – automatic – 29 jewels – 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) – 42-hour power reserve – central hours, minutes, seconds hand, GMT, and date – average accuracy +/- 10 seconds per day
Strap: stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp and diver's extension
Availability: available for pre-order
Price: 1,190 EUROS