A universal perpetual calendar with 30 complications, based on Audemars Piguet's most complex wristwatch.
Audemars Piguet has unveiled a series of new releases, among which the unique pocket watch stands out. It is a universal perpetual calendar equipped with an independent mechanical calculator that displays solar, lunar, and lunisolar cycles on one watch.
The idea for this watch arose at the end of 2023 during a conversation between Audemars Piguet CEO Ilaria Resta and legendary watchmaker Giulio Papi. In 20 months, he created the caliber used in the novelty, based on the RD#4 wristwatch mechanism, which combines 23 complex functions. The automatic winding was removed, but 8 additional functions were added.
It is important to note that these are the first Audemars Piguet pocket watches since 2011. In terms of complexity, they surpass the brand's historical rarities such as the Universelle model from 1899 and the Grosse Pièce model from 1921.
Let's start with the case. It is predictably massive - 50 x 23.4 mm, yet comfortable to hold. For maximum comfort, to prevent accidental activation and ensure symmetry in the closed state, the buttons were moved from the top of the case to the center. 3D modeling and real-world testing were used to improve tactile feedback.
An unobtrusive button at the "6 o'clock" position opens a hidden rear cover. Unlike most pocket watches, it opens 180 degrees, showcasing the mechanism and the universal perpetual calendar. The inside of the rear cover serves as a sapphire deck, enhancing the model's acoustic properties. The case is adorned with hand engraving depicting portraits of Audemars Piguet's founders and an emblem honoring the brand's 150th anniversary.
The main dial is made of 18-carat white gold and covered with translucent blue Grand Feu enamel. The Roman numerals on the hour scale are hand-engraved. The same applies to the rose gold hands, which contrast sharply with the blue background of the dial, ensuring excellent readability.
The chronograph split hand is made of white gold. The second dial is styled similarly to the first. The background features blue enamel with the same engraving as the hour scale. Readings are displayed on titanium discs.
The aforementioned movement (caliber 1150) has compact dimensions of 34.3 x 8.8 mm. It is assembled from 1140 components, operates at a balance frequency of 21600 vph, and provides a minimum power reserve of 60 hours.
Counting the functions in the mechanism can be challenging. There are 40 in total, including 22 complications. However, if the standalone universal calendar is considered, there are 47 functions, including 30 complications, making this model probably the most complex Audemars Piguet watch.
The list of main complications includes
- Grande Sonnerie, petite sonnerie, and minute repeater
- Chronograph with instant reset function, semi-instantaneous minute counter, and sliding hour counter
- Flying tourbillon
- Semi-Gregorian perpetual calendar, calculated until 2399
- Astronomical moon indication and precise moon phase indication.
The watch is controlled via 3 buttons around the crown. The button at "2 o'clock" starts and stops the chronograph, selects chime modes (petite sonnerie, grande sonnerie, or silent mode), and in the extended position activates the minute repeater.
The button at "3 o'clock" manages winding, bidirectional date correction, time setting, and split function activation. The button at "4 o'clock" resets the chronograph readings and advances the month forward and backward, automatically returning to the neutral position after each use. Additional correctors for the days of the week and moon phases are marked with corresponding engravings and hidden under the case back.
The main feature of this model is the universal calendar located inside the case back, operating independently of the main mechanism. As a reference, it includes a Gregorian calendar with 8 complications and 17 indicators, providing a panoramic view of astronomical and cultural cycles.
The dial displays
- Year, leap years, months, dates, and weekdays
- Moon phases and lunisolar dates
- Solstice and equinox days
- Nine major cultural holidays based on solar, lunar, and lunisolar calendars, including Christmas (Sol Invictus), Ramadan, Diwali, Easter, Vesak, Rosh Hashanah, and Chinese New Year.
The calendar operates via a bidirectional wheel on the case back. One rotation of the wheel advances the system through one metonic cycle of 19 years, synchronizing lunar and solar rhythms. The mechanism covers the period from 1900 to 2099 and maintains accuracy regardless of the power reserve.
The watch comes with a handmade platinum chain. The model exists in two platinum examples, but 8 more white gold examples are planned for release. The estimated cost of the platinum version is CHF 2,500,000, while the white gold model is priced at CHF 2,350,000.