Welcome to another Sunday showdown. The temperature is rising, and the sun is showing its face more often.
It's time to prepare for summer and choose the right diving watch. Today, we're comparing two vintage-style divers that could become your next summer timepiece. One is the newly introduced 39mm Doxa Sub 200T, and the other is the reissued Aquastar Model 60. Get ready to vote for your favorite.
Both of these divers are inspired by watches from the past. They can withstand dives up to 200 meters, and their retail price is around 1,500 euros. Artem and Anton will surely find enough differences to start this battle.
Last Week in the Showdown Program…
But first, let's look at what happened last week between the Omega Seamaster 300M 2254.50 and 2531.80. It was a battle of Sir Peter Blake against James Bond. The 2245.50 model can be called both clean and dull at the same time. The 2531.80 model is often considered a bit messy, but that's one of its strengths. As always, comments were split evenly, but in the end, voting showed a "slight" preference for the black 2254.50 model. With its tapering bracelet and large sword hands, it garnered 60% of the votes, becoming last week's undisputed winner of the Sunday morning show. Let's see which watch wins this week.
Professional Sub 200T with Iconic dial (left) and sunburst finish version (right) flank the larger Sub 300T
Anton: Doxa Sub 200T
A couple of years ago, I wore the Doxa Sub 300 Searambler for a while. I must say I really liked them, especially the quirky design with a large case and a tiny dial in the center. However, they felt too big for my 17cm wrist. Additionally, at 2,790 euros, they were a bit pricey compared to the Seiko SPB317 at 950 euros, which I was also considering as an alternative at the time. In the end, I felt the Seiko suited my wrist much better, and I chose them.
I must say, the new 39mm Doxa Sub 200T almost made me regret that decision. At 10.7mm thick, it's much thinner than the 12.3mm profile of the SPB317. And let's not even mention the precise difference in lug-to-lug sizes between these watches. Doxa simply dwarfs Seiko with its 41.5mm lug-to-lug span. Finally, I also greatly appreciate the colorful accents on the Doxa Sub 200T. They make these watches the perfect summer choice, especially on a suitable rubber strap.
The Ideal Summer Companion
That's why I would choose the Doxa Sub 200T over the Aquastar Model 60. Don't get me wrong: Aquastar did a great job with this update. I also like the more angular rice bracelet and the fact that both a Tropic rubber strap and a NATO strap are included in the package. However, a diver's watch in this price range should also excite you a little, shouldn't it? The Doxa Sub 200T, priced at 1,590 euros, does just that with its quirky case design and bright accents.
Of all the available Sub 200T options, I would choose the Searambler with a sunburst silver dial and bright orange accents. Of course, I would buy them on a bracelet, but also purchase an orange rubber strap to give them an even more summery look. And they will come in handy when we celebrate King's Day in the Netherlands. Sure, you can also put a colorful strap on the Model 60, but unfortunately, there are no colorful accents on its dial and bezel.
A More Original, Standout Option
What I really like about the Doxa model is how it stands out among many other diving watches. The Model 60 is a very good skin diver. But when you start looking around, you find many other divers from various brands. They've all tried their hand at classic design, and none of them look 100% like it. But ultimately, they do look quite similar. You can't say that about the Sub 200T.
The C-shaped case with a traditional bezel and tiny dial in the center has such character. It sits on the wrist like a small shield and will undoubtedly turn a few heads while you wear it. Additionally, in the new 39mm size, it's a very comfortable watch to wear. As a colleague said in his hands-on article, they are now ready to become your everyday carry, as they won't get in your way. Okay, Artem, let's hear from you.
Artem: Aquastar Model 60
I can't deny that this is a tough duel between two formidable vintage-rooted divers. Surely, Doxa has an attractive and wearable Sub 200T, but for several reasons, I favor the Aquastar Model 60 team. If we start with what I dislike about Doxa, it's pretty straightforward. For my money and small wrist, I still believe in the original Doxa Sub 300. The watch that essentially started it all for Doxa is the use case version, and it fits beautifully. I understand the reason for reducing the form factor to 39mm, but just as I would turn tail and run from a 37mm Submariner, I see the 200T as a diet version of the real thing.
Once we turn our attention to the Aquastar 60 model, we see an incredibly clean and simple diver suitable as a daily watch. Black, dark blue, or dark green dials are available. Of course, only 100 examples of the green and blue remain, but they can still be bought for just $990 on a strap! With any choice, the owner gets a durable color ready not just for summer. Also, there are subtle differences between the watches. The black version, selling for $1,390 with a bracelet and two straps, very much follows the original with its filled luminous hour markers. The green and blue versions elevate the status with polished metal trim around each index.
The Movement Matters
Whereas Doxa uses the automatic Sellita SW200-1 movement with a 38-hour power reserve, the Aquastar Model 60 features two interesting options. The series black model uses the La Joux-Perret G100 movement with a 68-hour power reserve and four adjustments. It's a great option for those who prefer to lay their watches down for the weekend or swap them for something else during the week. In the limited green and blue models, there's an interesting movement in the form of a new old stock ETA 2824-2. I would say both these models are a more considered choice than the Sellita.
A Familiar Case from a Pioneer
Anton is 100% right that there are many skin divers on the market today. This once ubiquitous case design has come back into fashion. Even if the revived Aquastar 60 model wasn't the first on the market this time, it was among the earliest (if not the earliest) when it debuted in 1957. So, if you're drawn to skin diver-style watches, the Model 60 is a very authentic choice.
Beauty on the Wrist
As an avid vintage watch lover, I'm insanely picky about modern watches that grace my wrist. I don't like bulky watches that feel awkward or like an extra appendage. Thankfully, the Aquastar Model 60, measuring 37mm x 47mm, is among the most pleasant watches I've worn lately. The 19mm rice bead bracelet with stamped clasp isn't sophisticated, but it's light and comfortable. I also enjoy wearing them on the Tropic strap. Best of all, these watches are ready for any situation, as the bracelet dresses them up, and the rubber strap makes them ready for the beach or pool.
In the end, any of today's contenders is a worthy choice if you're interested in a retro diver of good size. Both brands have rich histories and boast good, practical features. Now the choice is yours.