Sometimes, as a watch enthusiast, you just feel a special connection with a brand.
For me, that brand is Fears. This revived English independent watch company is a great example of how to carve out a niche slightly above the mid-range segment. Despite my distant admiration for the company, I have spent little time with Fears watches. Naturally, this needed to change. I requested press samples of the latest Fears Brunswick models and studied them in detail. Here's how our encounter went.
I spent time with the Brunswick Jump Hour in China Blue and two new pilot watches - the Brunswick Filton in Raven Black and Squadron Green. The Jump Hour is priced at 4,100 euros excluding taxes on a leather strap or 4,300 euros on a bracelet. The Filton is priced at 3,200 euros on a strap and 3,400 euros on a bracelet, also excluding taxes.
Fears and the Cushion-Shaped Case
As is known, Fears is a revived historical watch company. Edwin Fear opened a workshop and showroom in Bristol, England, back in 1846. A second production facility appeared in 1866, but both buildings were heavily damaged during the bombings of World War II. The company moved to the Clifton area of Bristol, a name that later became part of the Fears collection. Watch production continued until 1976, when the company was hit by the Quartz Crisis.
Fast forward to 2016, when a young watchmaker apprentice at Rolex, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, discovered he was a fourth-generation great-grandson of Edwin Fear. Realizing how incredible this was, he decided to revive the family business. Since then, he has led the company, bringing Fears back among the recognizable names and influential players in British watchmaking.
Fears has a long history with cushion-shaped cases. The first models with this design date back more than a century. The watches you see here are from 1924 and demonstrate a design that can still be seen in the modern Brunswick models.
Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour China Blue
The Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour China Blue model combines a classic cushion-shaped case with a jumping hour indicator.
The name "China Blue" refers to the dial, which, according to Fears, is inspired by classic ceramics from Stoke-on-Trent. The outer part of the dial features a silver-white "barleycorn" pattern, while the center is covered in a matte lacquer of a soft blue shade. The hour disc is located behind a rhodium-plated window at the 12 o'clock position and is balanced by a brushed and faceted brand name plate at the bottom. On paper, the dial seems loaded with details, but the basic time display remains pleasant and simple - hours are shown in the window, minutes by a hand. However, the real charm lies in the details, many of which are handcrafted with alternating finishes.
The 40.5mm diameter 316L stainless steel case is 47mm long and 12.8mm thick including the domed sapphire glass. Fears employs a combination of matte and polished finishes, with a lug width of 20mm and a water resistance of 100m. Inside is the automatic JJ01 jump hour mechanism based on the Sellita SW200 with a module developed by Christopher Ward, featuring 25 jewels and a 38-hour power reserve. The watch is offered on a Storm Grey alcantara strap or a polished and matte stainless steel bracelet with five rows of links.
Restraint and Elegance
Putting on the Fears Brunswick Jump Hour China Blue, two words immediately come to mind - "restraint" and "elegance". The restraint is evident in the overall simple silhouette. Upon closer inspection, a multitude of subtle details and levels of finishing are revealed. Ultimately, these watches gradually win you over.
The elegance is manifested in the visual hierarchy and composition of the dial. Everything is thought out, balanced, and harmonious. For example, the minute hand has two finishes - one half matte, the other polished. The brand name plate with a matte surface and faceted edges is another neat detail.
The typography stands out but is very unobtrusive. It is the signature Edwin font, developed based on historical Fears models by a typographer specializing in watch typography. The result seems simple yet retains a lively playfulness often lacking in modern dials.
Fears Brunswick 40 Filton - Pilot Watches
The Brunswick 40 Filton brings the Fears cushion-shaped case into the aviation watch segment. This is a new category for the brand, which Fears calls its first pilot watches in 180 years. The name Filton is associated with the town near Bristol, known for its aviation history.
The 316L stainless steel case with a 40mm diameter has a lug-to-lug length of 46.5mm and a thickness of 11.9mm including the domed sapphire crystal. It also combines matte and polished finishes, features a screw-down "onion" crown, and offers a water resistance of 150m, making these watches the most sporty Brunswick model from a practical standpoint, not just in dial design.
Inside is the automatic La Joux-Perret G100 movement with a quick date setting and a power reserve of 68 hours. The dial is complemented by three-dimensional Arabic numerals, a triangle at 12 o'clock, sword-shaped hands with BGW9 Super-LumiNova luminescent coating, and a date disc with numbers in the signature Edwin font. The Raven Black model has a black sunburst dial, white printing, and hands with a black center.
Squadron Green features a matte green gradient, light blue squares behind the hour markers, gray hands, and a signal yellow seconds hand. Both models are available on a brown buffalo leather strap or a five-row stainless steel bracelet with matte and polished finishes.
Classic Sportiness
As soon as I picked up the Brunswick Filton models, I immediately noticed how different they are from the Jump Hour - not only in the way they display time but also in their character. If the Jump Hour exudes modern confidence and strictness, the Filton is lighter, vintage, and playful.
The numbers, coated in white lacquer and filled with white, look as bold as possible. Combined with the traditional pilot watch layout, the theme becomes evident. My favorite is the Raven Black because it better fits the image of vintage pilot watches.
However, the Squadron Green is also intriguing, primarily due to its gradient effect. Usually, I am critical of such transitions and vignettes, finding them often overly flashy. Here, the effect is so subtle that it resembles a shadow falling on the dial. At the same time, the color and effect do not reduce readability, maintaining the integrity and authenticity of these watches as a tool.
Conclusion: What Do I Think of Fears After Meeting the Brunswick Models?
Returning to the reason for my request for these watches, how did they affect my perception of the brand? Simply put, they confirmed my expectations. These are truly quality watches created by people who genuinely love what they do. They exude creative determination and steadfastness, which can become a unique selling point for small independent brands. I especially appreciate the attention to detail, aimed at the more advanced enthusiast. It's a bold approach, as such watches do not always find a mass response - they require more thoughtful perception rather than just "shock and awe".
This approach draws criticism in the online community. At first glance, the specifications may seem overpriced for the price. However, these remarks rather indicate a lack of experience than issues with the watches. When a small independent brand strives for the highest quality of details, the cost quickly adds up. As a brand owner in the same segment, I know this firsthand. The question is not about the justification of the price, but how much this degree of refinement matters to you in exchange for the cost. Any answer will be correct, but it is subjective.
Overall, the Fears Brunswick models left a very good impression on me. My favorite is the Jump Hour. I like its solid appearance, and the gentle blue color gives it the necessary softness. All three models are comfortable to wear and have a noticeable presence on the wrist. Add to this the level of detailing and quality of finish that matches the price, and you get three very strong offers from Bristol.
What do you think of the Fears Brunswick Jump Hour and Filton models? Share your opinion in the comments.