This Ferdinand Berthoud is truly my watch. It is not perfect (in fact, none are), but it impresses and takes your breath away. The beauty lies in the execution and details.
These watches conceal numerous small features and layers of craftsmanship that can be discovered time and again. Altogether, these advantages make them some of the most interesting and complex mechanical watches with only time display functions on the market. Overall, Ferdinand Berthoud excels in the narrow niche of luxury watchmaking: ultra-technically designed mechanical watches that do slightly more than just show the time. The complexity here is not in utility, but in how Ferdinand Berthoud approaches the art of measuring and displaying time.
Model Name and Identification: Why It Matters
Unfortunately, little passion is conveyed through the names Ferdinand Berthoud assigns to its creations. These watches are called Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1RES.4 - a name that sounds about as exciting as a spare part code a technician orders for appliance repair. "FB 1RES.4" is indeed hard to remember and pronounce, isn't it? I've always thought that alphanumeric designations for such products as manually finished and assembled luxury watches strip them of the necessary individuality. Considering the richness of the French language and the brand's history, the Ferdinand Berthoud team could improve their product descriptions a bit.
Limited Edition and the FB-RES.FC Movement
Today, Ferdinand Berthoud releases models similar to the Chronomètre FB 1RES.4, but this particular model was a limited edition and is no longer produced (first released in 2024). More specifically, Ferdinand Berthoud stated that only 38 pieces of the calibre FB-RES.FC movement were made. This movement was used in other versions of watches with an octagonal case (for example, in a limited series for the retailer Sincere from Singapore), as well as in models with a more traditional round case. The FB-RES.FC movement is an amazing miniature machine that is equally interesting from both an intellectual and an aesthetic perspective. As the word "chronometer" in the name suggests, FB-RES.FC focuses on accuracy. It is one of the few high-end watch manufacturers that pays attention to chronometry as much as to decorative elements and manual finishing.
Dial Design and Time Display Features
The dial of the FB 1RES.4 shows only the time: a central second hand and a power reserve indicator. There is significant skeletonization and exposed mechanical details. Typically, I am not a big fan of asymmetrical open dials, but the finishing of the movement and the overall look are so beautiful that symmetry or aesthetic balance take a back seat. The watch dial remains relatively readable, and the second hand moves not smoothly but with a characteristic tick - the so-called "dead" second hand. This is achieved through a remontoir with constant force for one second, which is the first part of the constant force system. It accumulates energy and releases it every second to move the second hand. Such a system of charging and releasing energy is essential for the isochronous movement, allowing the mechanism to maintain accuracy at extreme power reserve levels.
Regulation System with Fusee and Chain
The second key regulation system is associated with a massive mainspring barrel and is a fusee and chain transmission. This ancient mechanical principle uses a tiny chain, reminiscent of a miniature bicycle chain, that wraps around the mainspring barrel. The length of the chain's travel changes during winding and unwinding, compensating for changes in torque. The goal of the fusee and chain system is to ensure constant force. The uniqueness of the Ferdinand Berthoud FB-RES.FC movement is that it is equipped with two different types of constant force systems. The case includes an additional sapphire panel on the side to allow detailed observation of the complex fusee and chain system. The movement operates at a frequency of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour) and provides a power reserve of 50 hours.
Hand Finishing and Complexity of the Mechanism
The hand finishing and decoration of Ferdinand Berthoud mechanisms are truly top-notch. At the same time, the mechanisms are extremely complex. It may be the only mechanical movement on the market with just a time-only function that contains more than 1,000 parts. In total, the calibre FB-RES.FC consists of 1,200 components, with 285 solely comprising the chain system. As a true chronometer, all FB-RES.FC mechanisms are COSC-certified in Geneva. It is worth noting that the dial indicates the place of production - "Val-de-Travers", a region in Switzerland near Neuchâtel, known not only for watchmaking but also for absinthe production.
Case and Materials: Tradition and Modernity
Despite the traditional value of the mechanism and the brand inspired by heritage, I have always found the octagonal cases of Ferdinand Berthoud pleasing and futuristic. The FB 1RES.4 case is made of titanium with a ceramic coating - an interesting and exotic material. It has a smooth gray sandblasted finish, pleasant to the touch. The ceramic coating adds color and, more importantly, scratch resistance. The titanium base provides strength and lightness. The case is comfortable, but for some, it may seem large - 44 mm wide, 14.6 mm thick, with water resistance up to 30 meters. Very short lugs allow the watch to fit snugly even on small and medium wrists. The strap is black alligator, with a titanium folding clasp with micro-adjustment. This clasp matches the overall concept of the "overcomplexity" of the Chronomètre FB 1RES.4.
Conclusion: Watches for Mechanics and Individuality Lovers
The combination of refined design, traditional mechanics and finishing, technical complexities, and visual dynamics with modern elements makes Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1RES.4 one of my favorite watches capable of "accelerating the heartbeat." These watches are for those who appreciate mechanics and do not seek to be like everyone else. They are beautiful, do not try to fit into any templates, are confident in their capabilities, and do not seek to please everyone (except perhaps the watchmakers themselves). The retail price of the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1RES.4 is USD 217,000.