Since the release of the film "Dr. No" in 1962, James Bond has held a special place in film history. With 24 films to date and a 25th set to release this fall, it is one of the most successful franchises of all time, mainly thanks to its eponymous hero. Whether played by Sean Connery, Daniel Craig, or others, James Bond is a beloved character. We know he loves gambling and women, and that he enjoys his martini "shaken, not stirred." We also know he is a fan of elegant watches. In every Bond film, our hero wears various watches. Except for the regrettable quartz era, many of them have become iconic. Today, I want to focus on two of these watches in particular.
First, let's talk about the Rolex Submariner 6538, the original James Bond watch featured in most films. Sean Connery wore them in "Dr. No", "From Russia with Love", "Thunderball", and "Goldfinger". In fact, the 6538 model is not the only Submariner variant to earn the nickname "Bond Submariner". The Reference 5508 and 6205 models also appeared on screen, but the 6538 is the original, appearing with different straps in each film. The watch appears in several famous scenes, but it is best seen in "Goldfinger" when Bond lights up the dial with a lighter for a close-up view. Being a big Bond fan, I acquired a Submariner 114060, which is in some ways a modern version of the 6538, also without a date.
Another Bond watch I want to discuss is the Omega Seamaster 300M (Ref. 2541.80). These watches are perhaps less iconic, as they were only worn in one Bond film - "GoldenEye" in 1995. However, they are notable for several reasons. First, "GoldenEye" marked Bond's triumphant return to the screen after an eight-year hiatus, during which lawsuits threatened the entire Bond franchise. Secondly, since then, Bond has worn Omega watches in every film, though he usually wore the ref. 2531.80 model.
Finally, there are two of these watches in the film, which is unusual for Bond watches. In the plot, Bond (Pierce Brosnan) and agent 006 Alec Trevelyan (Sean Bean) have identical watches. Unfortunately, this leads to a bad watch history, as the prologue of the film takes place in 1986, seven years before the model 2480.80 was released in 1993. But given the "cool factor," I'm happy to overlook this mistake.
Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 is a mid-sized, 38mm watch that has a moderate wrist presence. The case is made of stainless steel, with straight lugs that are definitely vintage. The wide rotating bezel is also made of stainless steel. It is pale blue, with white dive markings and a red arrow at the "12 o'clock" position with a small gemstone insert. This is perhaps the most unique feature of the watch, although the gemstone does not function as a laser as in some films. Moreover, the watch is very well built, with a screw-down crown that won't pop out by accident, and it is water-resistant up to 300 meters.
The dial is flat black, providing good contrast with the hands and indices. The outer indices are ladder-shaped and painted gold, with thin hashes at each minute mark. The inner, five-minute markings are much more pronounced. At the "12 o'clock" position is an applied gold arrow, and at the "3, 6, and 9 o'clock" positions are gold bars. In between these are large gold dots. Combined with the black background and blue bezel, the watch looks very striking. The hands are also gold, with the hour hand shaped like a peace sign and a loop at the end of the second hand for better visibility.
One thing I don't like is the plexiglass crystal. Yes, plexiglass was insanely fashionable in the 1950s when these watches were made, but it doesn't withstand abuse like sapphire or mineral glass. On the other hand, it's easier for an enthusiast to polish it to a good condition.
Mechanism and Reliability
The Ref. 6538 uses the caliber 1030 movement, a 18,000 Hz movement that was one of the most popular in its time. It is notable for being one of the first large in-house movements that made a splash. At the time, most manufacturers bought movements from third-party suppliers like ETA, whereas today, in-house movements are the norm for major brands. The movement features a blue Breguet hairspring with an overcoil, an old-school rotor that looks nothing like a modern automatic. Obviously, it's not as reliable as modern movements, but there's still something to admire here.
The only significant drawback of the Submariner Ref. 6538 is that it is rare and expensive, even by watch standards. In good condition, a 6538 can cost up to $100,000. Limited editions, watches with autographs, and watches of historical significance can be significantly more expensive. For example, a tropical version of the watch sold at auction for $544,939 in 2013. Such a price tag is hard to justify, even for 007.
Omega Seamaster Professional Ref. 2541.80
The Omega Seamaster Professional Ref. 2541.80 is slightly larger than the Submariner, with a diameter of 41mm. It has a similar stainless steel case and a blue rotating bezel, but that's where the similarities end. The first significant difference you'll notice is the bezel itself. It's scalloped, with one indentation per hour, allowing it to be easily turned even with wet hands or gloves. This is ideal for underwater use, which is what any dive watch is meant for. The scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal slightly distorts the dial at the edges.
Like the Submariner, these watches feature a screw-down crown, and they are water-resistant up to 300 meters. However, these watches include a helium escape valve, making them more versatile. It's important to remember that a helium escape valve doesn't make a watch more water-resistant - it only allows helium to escape if you've been in a pressurized chamber. If you're not a deep-sea diver, you'll literally never need this feature.
The dial is blue, with a wave pattern, giving it a nautical theme. At the "3 o'clock" position is a date window, which you won't find on a classic Submariner. The hands are wide, with luminous markings at the tips, and the applied indices are large and highly visible. You won't have any trouble reading the time on the Ref. 2541.80, regardless of lighting conditions.
Mechanism and Reliability
This watch uses a quartz movement with a battery life of 42 months. This is both good and bad. On the one hand, a quartz movement is more reliable from a technical standpoint, and you won't have to worry about resetting and winding it every time you take the watch off for a few days. On the other hand, it's a quartz movement. It lacks the charm - or craftsmanship - of a traditional automatic movement.
This was a mistake the Bond franchise would rectify. In the next three roles of everyone's favorite secret agent, Daniel Craig wore similar Seamaster Professional 300M watches, but with an automatic chronometer Ref. 2531.80 instead of a quartz movement. Daniel Craig chose other Seamaster options as well, including the blue bezel watch he wore in "Casino Royale". Undoubtedly, this ongoing partnership is a crucial part of Omega's success.