Geneva's customization expert, Label Noir, lives up to its name, with many creations from the atelier coated in black. The first collaboration between the independent watch company Armin Strom and Label Noir is this dark version of the Gravity Equal Force model. Thanks to the exclusive Magma Moon Coating and other surface treatments developed by Label Noir, the Gravity Equal Force takes on a dark, mysterious look.
GRAVITY EQUALS THE FORCE OF TAME
Introduced in 2019, Armin Strom's Gravity Equal Force was the first automatic watch in the world equipped with a stop-coupling mechanism to ensure constant force transmission. Co-founder and master watchmaker Claude Greisler wrote a new chapter in watchmaking history by creating a stop-coupling mechanism; Gravity Equal Force became the vessel chosen to provide constant, stable operation in mechanical watches. The problem inherent in all watches is that the force the mainspring can deliver when unwinding can never be constant, as when fully wound, the force increases and decreases towards the end of the power reserve. These fluctuations affect the running speed.
To achieve a consistent energy flow from the barrel to the balance, Armin Strom applied a stop-coupling mechanism usually used in high-end hand-wound watches. To avoid extreme periods of high and low torque, the stop mechanism halts the complete unwinding of the mainspring and uses the stage of the unwinding process when it can provide constant power.
UNIQUE AESTHETICS
The Gravity Equal Force model is part of the System 78 collection, named after the birth year of the company's founders, Serge Michel and Claude Greisler, and is meant to offer exceptional innovative watches at a more accessible price - at least compared to the insanely complex Resonance watches. Moreover, the watch's appearance is an original blend of old and new. Three straight parallel bridges on the right side of the dial echo the architecture of pocket watches and hold the micro-rotor, gear train, and barrel with a power reserve indicator in place. The openworked dial with an off-center hour and minute disc featuring an integrated small seconds hand corresponds to a more modern design language. Although we have already covered the steel model with a blue dial and the luxurious rose gold model with a black dial, the latest Gravity Equal Force x Label Noir is the darkest member of the family.
LABEL NOIR FINISHING
While the technical specifications and movement of the watch remain unchanged, Label Noir's expertise in innovative finishing has resulted in a black matte case and dial with a dark mysterious landscape. The 41mm steel case (12.65mm height) with a distinctive protrusion at the 6 o'clock mark and a large crown has undergone a black Amorphous Diamond Like Carbon (ADLC) treatment, enhancing its hardness and flexibility and giving it a smooth matte surface.
The off-center hour and minute disc, situated on the left side of the dial, received Label Noir finishing: a gray peripheral minute ring with a snail pattern and a raised black hour ring with clear white Arabic numerals. The hour and minute hands are black and coated with black Super-LumiNova. You'll notice that the minute and hour hands interrupt from 2 to 4 o'clock to reveal the underlying gear train. The center of the disc features a grained gray surface, while the recessed small seconds counter has a snail-patterned inner surface. Before moving on to the three bridges, it is worth enlarging the photo to appreciate the dark, rugged surface of the background. Using Label Noir's signature treatment called Magma Moon Coating (MMC), initially used in a previous project to recreate the Moon based on official NASA images, the black pitted surface on the Armin Strom watch is laser-etched to create the impression of the dark side of our neighboring satellite.
Although Label Noir does not disclose the material used to coat the three bridges, they are blackened and matte, with the smallest bridge bearing the Label Noir inscription. Against the black lunar background and black openworked bridges, the rhodium-coated gear train, barrel, and micro-rotor stand out exceptionally well. However, I noticed one thing: the screws holding the bridges are not aligned as on "regular" Armin Strom watches.
AUTOMATIC CALIBER ASB19
The exhibition case back reveals the darkened caliber ASB19, an in-house automatic movement operating at 3.5 Hz/25,200 vibrations per hour and providing a 72-hour power reserve. The micro-rotor and equal force barrel with a stop mechanism and power reserve indicator are visible from the dial. The case back showcases the high-frequency generator and superb finishing, including black Geneva strip bridges and matte surfaces and black circular graining on the base.
AVAILABILITY AND PRICE
The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force x Label Noir is limited to 15 pieces. It will be available exclusively at Label Noir and is priced at CHF 23,500.
For more information, please visit www.labelnoirdesign.com.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – ARMIN STROM GRAVITY EQUAL FORCE X LABEL NOIR
Case: 41mm diameter x 12.65mm height – steel with black matte ADLC coating – sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment – water resistance up to 30 meters
Dial: gray with black elements – off-center hours, minutes, and small seconds disc on the left – openworked hour and minute hands with black ADLC coating and black Super-LumiNova – three openworked bridges on the right – dial background with Magma Moon coating
Movement: caliber ASB19 – automatic with micro-rotor and Geneva equal force drive – 35.52mm x 11.67mm – 25,200 vibrations per hour – 72-hour power reserve – 28 jewels – 202 components – hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indication
Availability: limited to 15 pieces. Available exclusively at Label Noir
Price: 23,500 CHF